[Vwdiesel] Jett's control arm bushings

[Travis .]

If your front bushing looks ok-get just the bushing. The rear bushing isn't that hard to put in and out if you have just a bench vise. Even the front can be done on just a vise-but that one stinks to do and often doesn't wear nearly as fast. Audi TT rears are the way to go-if you don't go with cheap ones. Cheap ones will tear apart pretty fast and you are back to needing new bushings (or arms again if that is what you choose). When I installed the new bushings I just went around in 3 spots tighten, move, tighten, move and they were both done before my brother finish going to the bathroom (we were doing the whole suspension refresh). Top bushings-I used 034M bushings. They are harder so they don't crush down. Didn't notice the difference in OEM vs the replacements and they last a LOT longer. You may want to do the ball join/tie rod end while you are in there as well. 
 
Rear axle bushings as well don't hurt. The rear axle bushings are a pain to get out if you keep your brake line attached-but possible. We took a sawsal and cut the center out (rubber bushings-some old ones were metal oil filled ones). Then we cut the plastic outer and nocked it out. The took Davebugs tool from TDI club to press in. Others have removed the axle to press in or used c-clamps with plywood. 
 
In other news-my right rear on my 04 golf seemed to bounce really funky. Everything appeared to be hooked up and un-broken. Finally this past weekend I unhooked both rear top mounts for the shocks and stroked them. The right rear-had no resistance. 50K on the Koni Red shocks. Thankfully there is a warranty on them but that process of getting any warranty isn't fun. You need to fill out a form, fax it in (faxes are getting less and less common) along with vehicle registration and if you want a replacement first you have to pay 1/2 price, then if they determine it was their fault they refund. Otherwise you can send it in and wait. 
 
My 04 Golf also had the clutch start to slip this past weekend. I was towing around 2000lb behind the car all weekend (no slipping). I then unloaded everything and had to make a trip to town. To feel some real power again I did a little spirited driving to feel what acceleration really is-that is when it slipped. So-that was Sundays project. I took the tranny/clutch out and then ordered parts after seeing exactly what needed to be order (torque to yeild bolts-I had to see what I was going to remove like axles or not-depends on the "how to" writeups on if you should or not). I got the south bend stage 2 endurance clutch with single mass flywheel. I also did the 5th gear oil mod. That involves putting on the bench and drilling 4 holes in the 5th gear area. Since that spot has not real drain area if your oil is even a little low it will starve the 5th gear. Not now. VW did come up with a fix but drilling is cheaper/easier. The oil in the tranny flushes out the aluminum chips once you break through. 
 
I also greased my starter. I took it apart based on the DYI things on the internet. In the winter my starter sticks engaged for a second and makes a grinding noise. Has done it since I bought in 08. I took thing apart. Cleaned with contact cleaner/rag and put some synthetic grase on the gears/bearings. Don't know if it will help but the old grease was hard and gray with metal. A little tip-don't pull the brushes off the motor as they stink putting back on. I greased that bushing on the motor and moved the brushes off to far on the end when all 4 poped off. Had to have my wife hold two while I held one to get on and then put the 4th one on after that. 
 
Clutch should be here today. Brother has that same clutch for around 50K miles. Only complaint from him is the noise from it rattling when the clutch is pushed in. The latest clutch is suppose to be a "quite" clutch so we shall see. 
Travis