Re: Audi brake fluid

[dpb@Eng (David Bokaie)]

Thanks for the response.

Unfortunately I did not see your comments until now and the job is pretty 
much done.

I agree with your mechanic that the water pump O ring should be replace as the 
water pump position is used to tension the timing belt.  I did not do that 
since I did not have the Oring.  before I put things together I ran the engine
and verified that water was not leaking.  Hopefully it will stay that way.

You are dead on as far the the Audi tool.  I believe the tool is inserted into
the bell housing to lock the engine so that the crank pulley bolt can
be loosened.  I used a large screw drive to accomplish this and was praying 
throughout for the tip or the ring gears not to break.  I wrecked a torque 
wrench (the cheapy 150 ft-lb ones) and a socket to loosen the bolt.  I had to
buy 4 ft water pipe to be used as a breaker bar and used a craftsmen 1/2 
drive to finally do the job.  Anyways so far so good.

For people who want to attempt this below are the special tools that you need:

	1- 27 mm socket (preferably impact kind to handle >250 ft-lb torque)
	2- 6mm hex wrench that can be attached to 3/8 driver (not sure
	   what the official name is)
	3- torque wrench that can go up to 300ft-lb (I did not have this and
	   used a 150ft-lb one plus some physics to convince myself that the 
	   bolt is torqued down)
	4- The audi tool to lock the engine.

Things to remove/loosen:

	1- top and bottom grill
	2- Bottom engine cover (the plastic one)
	3- Top radiator cover
	3- All drive belts (there are three, p/s, air & alternator)
	4- crank pulley (tough one)
	5- timing belt upper and lower cover
	6- Need to loosen the water pump

        There is a secondary radiator in front of the engine which removing it
	would definitely simplify matters.  However I could see enough 
	clearance between it and the engine for it to come out and basically 
	left it as it was.  Actually I loosened it so that I could take out
	the timing belt cover.


If somebody needs specific information please send me mail at dpb@sun.com

Thanks,

David



> From @advanced-robotics-research-centre.salford.ac.uk,@coffee.arrc.salf.ac.uk:STEVE_BR@advanced-robotics-research-centre.salford.ac.uk Thu Nov 26 01:37:26 1992
> To: dpb@Eng, quattro@aries.East.Sun.COM
> Date: 26 Nov 92 09:36:57 GMT
> Subject: Re: Audi brake fluid
> X-Pmrqc: 1
> X-Lines: 27
> 
> David Bokaie wrote:-
> >
> > Ps: Has anybody changed a timing belt on a 90 (5 banger)?  The Bently manual
> >     is pretty useless....
> >
> 
> I haven't done this job myself but my garage recommended installing a
> new water pump back face seal (O-ring) at the same time.
> 
> This is because the belt tension is adjusted by rotating the water
> pump on the 5 cylinder engine; with a new belt, almost certainly a
> different length from the old one, the pump will end up in a
> different position. Sod's law being what it is, this will be with the
> seal right on top of some corroded part of the face of the block and
> the cooling system will leak necessitating doing the whole job over
> again. A new seal (and cleaning up the sealing face on the block)
> will minimise the chances of this.
> 
> Also the 5-cyl crankshaft bolt is pretty difficult to get undone
> without the special Audi tool - my Haynes manual says it's done up to
> 260 ft.lbs. Make sure it's done up that tight on reassembly and use
> locking compound.
> 
> Steve Brown
> Advanced Robotics Research Ltd, SALFORD, UK
> (1985 Audi 90CD, 1986 Audi 80GL)
> 
>