Re: My "New" '87 5000CS Turbo Quattro

[Eddi Jew <jew@rysa.dtc.hp.com>]

 > Well if any of you remember my post about three weeks ago about a 87 TQ
 > w/Hail damage,  I got it! and get this I got it for $2000!!!!

Congrats! Great deal!

 > Now I have several new questions...
 > 
 > 3.  Sometimes it idles at 1250rpm and other times it idles at 850rpm (By the
 > book!)

Maybe the idle air stabilizer (electrically-modulated) valve is sticky?
I had a 2000 RPM idle on my '86 VW GTI and I tried cleaning it, but 
eventually replaced it. The factory doesn't recommend this, but you 
can try this:

          Be in the 1250 RPM idle condition. Pull the electrical 
          connector off the valve (located mid-forward of the 
          intake manifold). 

          If the idle drops, the valve isn't sticky. The signal to the
          valve may be causing it to maintain this high RPM. Look
          elsewhere.

          If the idle stays at 1250 RPM, try tapping the unit. If 
          the idle drops, it's the culprit. Continue below even if
          tapping doesn't drop idle.

          Shut off car. Remove the air hoses and the electrical 
          connector to remove unit..

          Use a non-marring stick to see if the "rotary" valve moves
          freely. It's lightly spring-tensioned, but should close if
          positioned in its mounted orientation. Move through its whole
          range of motion. If sticky, continue.

          Use a spray can of contact cleaner (for TV tuners, back when
          mechanical contacts were used) and spray inside the air passages.
          Tilt the unit with the electrical connector up, to avoid getting
          any cleaner fluid into the motor section. Depending how gunked-
          up it is, some brushing may be in order.

          Re-check valve motion, replaced unit, and test idle.

If this is the problem, this fix might only be temporary.
          
 > 4.  how do I clean the window switches so that they will work again?  (This
 > is driving my girlfried NUTS!)

I did the following on my '86 5000S:

     Weird item alert: You'll need a contact burnishing file. It's thin, 
     kinda flexible and has very fine "teeth" on both sides.

     Pry out switches from the top. Pull off the connector, making sure
     the wiring doesn't sink down into the door (kinda short). 

     The switch case can be pried off and re-assembled by using a thin-
     bladed screwdriver. Try not to break off the tabs, especially the 
     ones on the driver-side cluster that holds the individual switches.

     Spray contact cleaner (see above) and file contacts. The goal is to
     ensure maximum mating area that's clean- don't overdo it or there
     won't be any material left. Just remove the pits. Check with pencil-
     magnifier and use the spray cleaner to wash junk off the file and 
     contacts. Close up.

     If the wiring is short, you can't reach inside to hook up the 
     connectors. Turn power off and use a coat-hanger in a U shape to
     wrap under the connector so you have something to push against. 

Alan Cordeiro writes:
>> If you are willing to spend $35 each, new switches are the best long term
>> solution.

If heavily pitted, I agree. These switches look beefy, but experience says
if you don't use them, they stop working. Sometimes a quick series of
clickity-clicks will get it working. 

If a window still won't operate, the Bently manual has a good logic flow
diagram that will help to isolate which sets of contacts are dependent
on a window.

 > 6.  Whats my best bet for more horsepower?

Intendended Acceleration?

 > That's all that I can think about now!  any ideas and answers would be
 > appreciated!
 > 
 > Eric Fletcher
 > Instructor FAST COMPANY RACING SCHOOL

-- Eddi Jew