Re: 4000Q refresh

[bbell@csn.net (Bruce Bell)]

>I have an '85 4000Q (60K miles) that I've owned since it was new.

> I will be
>replacing the struts and springs (Koni/H&R) soon once the struts
>arrive. I will be installing a K&N air filter and already have
>a Borla exhaust.
>
>Since I will be in the area and will have to get a 4 wheel
>alignment anyhow, what other suspension bits should/could be
>replaced? Hopefully, these are just the nickel/dime bits that
>should be changed as a prophylactic measure.

Replace the strut bearings and the control arm bushings. cost of doing it
now is a lot cheaper than re-doing it in another 30K mi. My mechanic saved
me $60 by not replacing the strut bearings last summer. Guess what it's
going to cost now!
Just replaced my control arm bushings, Makes a tremendous difference in ride
and handling. I was going to use polyurethane bushings, but at $65 each I
decided to stick with the stock rubber $9-$10 variety from German Auto Salvage.

>My driving style is somewhat, shall we say, "sporting". The car
>will bottom out and drag the front mudflap regularly. A stiffer
>suspension will fix that. The Konis for the Audi has be updated.
>The adjustment is now on top - you can adjust them without any
>of the previous hassles. (so I'm told - I don't have them yet)

I want to hear more about these "new" Koni inserts. Can you confirm they are
adjustable on the car ala Tokiko?


>The discussions about the head work sounds intriguing. +1mm on
>the valves might be fun, with a Shrick cam and perhaps the
>mechanical cam advance. Any experience with any of this?

You won't notice the difference with a valve size increase of 1mm. The head
on '85-'87 coupes & 4000 quattros (2.22L has 38mm intakes and 33mm ex.
valves. If you want bigger valves you might want to price a used head from a
2.3L engine as they have the 40mm valves. This will also allow yoy to get
some porting of head and manifolds w/o having your car down for weeks. With
all this it is doubtfull you will notice a lot of difference with your
naturaly aspired 8.5:CR motor. Keep in mind Dan will be running at better
than 2 atmos. when he gets that RS2 turbo. He also doesn't have to contend
with an RPM limiter that cuts you off at 6500rpm.

If you want some fun, get a set of 5 pistons designed for the '85 vw GTI and
drop those in for a 10:1 CR. after a cleanup on the head you will have maby
10.2:1 and need a knock sensor.(caveat: if your cyclider is out of round or
too worn you will have to go oversive) Of course you could always have a
little taken off the top to avoid the knock sensor (9.5: would be a good
target w/o knock sensor).

Don't bother with the cam advance - waste of money!  I put one on my VW
because I had decked the block 1mm and wanted to compensate. Yeah with a hot
cam I could improve the idle a little bit with advance, but there was *NO*
noticeable and a very small measurable difference in performance at the high
end with retard. 

I put the Schrick cam in my '87 4000q last October. This is the asymetrical
with 272 deg intake and 268 deg exhaust. Lift is 11.2mm.  I promised this
list a review, which I have not written yet. I have collected most of the
information I need and will post it within the next few days followed by an
html version for Mark Salems server. I will suggest however that with this
cam, and with more compression (to be added later) the engine will want more
breathing from the head and manifolds. Also the 6500rpm limitation will be a
concern.  Does anyone know how to defeat (without hardwiring the fuel pump)
the limiter on these engines? Dave Lawson do you have any ideas?

BTW for some time now I have considerd rebuilding my engine using the 95.5mm
crank from the VW Eurovan. the seals and main journals are the same size but
the bearings for the rod journals have a different part number.  Appearently
this engine uses one of the newer (longer) rods. The project is on hold
until I can get specs on the rod journals. If the rod journals can be turned
for the 144mm rods to fit then I can use the 10:1 83mm pistons tectonichs
used for their 2.0L engine with the 94.5mm stroke. I'll take some off the
top of the pistons to reduce the compression to 10.6 and provide proper deck
clearence. With the J&S knock sensor and the insallation of oil squirters
for the pistons, I should have no problems running premium unleaded. At 2585
cc and with some head and exhaust work this engine should be good for 190+
hp and close to 200lbs of torque. So if anyone anywhere can find detailed
specs on the Eurovan I'd really appreciate it!

 
>- steve                            stratos product development
>spowers@spdg.com                   seattle, washington


Torque is FUN!


Bruce

bbell@csn.org (Bruce Bell)