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Re: Quattro Digest V1 #445
I have been searching high and lo for European Car Mag. Especially the
articles on the 86 q4000 anybody tell me where I can get a sub and these
back issues
On Mon, 9 Jan 1995 quattro-digest-owner@swiss.ans.net wrote:
> Quattro Digest Monday, 9 January 1995 Volume 01 : Number 445
>
> In this issue:
>
> Re: TQC bearings
> Re: Electric problem
> 5000 S window switches
> Re: A8 4.2 Quattro Disappoints?
> Replacing axial bearing (&/or u-joint) on quattro driveshafts
> Re: 1995 Quattro Club Event Schedule
> EC Back Issue...
> RE: 5000 S window switches
> Re: don't try this at home - FOLLOW-UP
> Extrude Honing & Turbo magazine
> Re: 5000 S window switches
> Vacuum
>
> See the end of the digest for information on subscribing to the quattro
> or quattro-digest mailing lists.
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> From: glen.powell@smc.com
> Date: 09 Jan 1995 10:01:28 -0500
> Subject: Re: TQC bearings
>
> The driveshaft bearing issue is a tough one! Somewhere, there must be a
> source for these bearings, dunno where. I do know that the ur-Quattro and
> 4000Q driveshafts are interchangable though, so a used 4000Q shaft could
> be an inexpensive alternative. I have 2 spare shafts, but, of course,
> *both* have noisy bearings! :(
>
> If anyone finds a source for these buggers, PLEASE POST!
>
> -glen
>
> ------------------------------
>
> From: Phil@sievers.com (Phil Payne)
> Date: Mon, 09 Jan 1995 16:42:05 GMT
> Subject: Re: Electric problem
>
> In message <95Jan9.064757est.41415@gateway.morgan.com> ASHD@morgan.com writes:
>
> > I have an 86 Audi Quattro Turbo. The rear lights have generated a fault.
> > With the sidelights on, if indicating I get a side light flash also on
> > both sides, this is true for indicating left or right. Also with the
> > hazards on the side lights dim if turned on.
>
> > Anyone help with tips where next to look???
>
> Check the chassis grounds for the rear lights. Somewhere within the luggage
> compartment there will be a large cluster of brown wires bolted to the
> bodywork. Undo, separate, clean and refasten.
>
> Phil Payne
> Sievers Consulting UK
> Vice Chair, UK Computer Measurement Group
> Phone +44 385 302803
> Fax/BBS +44 1536 723021
> Fido 2:2503/415
> CIS 100012,1660
>
> ------------------------------
>
> From: erict@cta.com (Eric Thorstenson)
> Date: Mon, 9 Jan 95 11:38:00 EST
> Subject: 5000 S window switches
>
> Hi all. Well, I'm getting ready to place and order for several
> new window switches for my '86 5000 S, and it occurred to me that
> perhaps the old ones may be salvagable. Does anyone know what the
> failure mode is on these things? Is it just cruddy contacts, that
> could be remedied by disassembling the thing and cleaning? Or is
> it more permanent, like something actually broken? Do they even
> come apart? (don't have one in front of me at the moment,
> unfortunately....)
>
> Thoughts, anyone?
>
> Eric T.
> '86 5000 S
>
> ------------------------------
>
> From: glen.powell@smc.com
> Date: 09 Jan 1995 09:46:24 -0500
> Subject: Re: A8 4.2 Quattro Disappoints?
>
> WRT the bad review of the A8 in "what car?" UK magazine, who are the
> major advertisers? BMW? Mercedes? Cynical, I know. :)
>
> -glen
>
> ------------------------------
>
> From: steveb@newkla.kla.com (Steven Buchholz)
> Date: Mon, 9 Jan 95 09:42:51 PST
> Subject: Replacing axial bearing (&/or u-joint) on quattro driveshafts
>
> I hear that this post didn't make it before ... and to think I stayed
> late on Friday to make sure it got out for the weekend! Oh well, let's
> try again!
>
> This post is in response to a direct e-mail from Bruce Bell who
> was wondering about a noise for which the source could not be
> identified. Since someone else was interested in this info I
> decided to post it to the group.
>
> A few years ago I had a noise that came from the driveshaft between
> the center to rear diffs. I found that Audi considers this drive-
> shaft a unit and so individual parts are not available for it. I
> took the driveshaft off the car and found that it was not too dif-
> ficult to disassemble and the bearing & u-joint were available from
> non-dealer sources. This was done on an '83 ur-Q. I am including
> information from pages 39.42-39.44 of the Audi 4000S, 4000CS and
> Coupe GT Official Factory Repair Manual 1984-87 Including Quattro
> and Quattro Turbo. Here is a quick rundown of the procedure:
>
> SPECIAL TOOLS: Other than metric socket & open-end wrenches all I
> needed was one of the 12 point modified hex keys that is needed
> to remove the socket cap bolts that hold the CV joints to the
> drive flanges. Bentley shows a home-made alignment tool (which I
> didn't make).
>
> PARTS NEEDED: It is recommended that the CV joint seals be replaced,
> these seals go between the CV joint and the drive flange and are
> available from the dealer. I don't have part numbers for the bearing
> or u-joint, but the bearing is a standard FAG part. I was able to
> get a replacement for the u-joint by measuring the dimensions of the
> cap & spider (This was necessary because I broke one of the needle
> bearings when I was putting it back together! BE CAREFUL)
>
> BENTLEY's CAVEATS: Do not bend driveshaft, always store and transport
> in parallel position. Tie up shafts when removing and installing
> driveshaft.
>
> STEVE'S OPINION OF BENTLEY'S CAVEATS: If you've got the car up on a
> rack it might be possible for the driveshaft to hang down far enough
> to cause a problem. If you are working under a car on jack stands all
> that is probably needed is to protect the CV joints from contamination.
>
> DRIVESHAFT, Removing: (From Bentley)
> - - Detach driveshaft from transmission flange. Tie up shaft end.
> [I recommend putting a heavy duty plastic bag (ZipLock) over the end
> of the CV joint.]
> - - Detach driveshaft from rear final drive flange. If necessary en-
> gage differential lock and block wheel. Tie up [and bag] shaft end.
> - - Detach center bearing from body and take out driveshaft.
>
> [Installation is the reverse of removal]
> NOTE: Driveshaft must be adjusted [during] installation
>
> Tightening torques:
> driveshaft/trans. flange 55 Nm(40 ft-lb)
> driveshaft/final drive flange 55 Nm(40 ft-lb)
> center bearing/body 20 Nm(14 ft-lb)
>
> The Bentley manual has several pictures and special tools for adjust-
> ing the driveshaft during installation. The whole idea of the proce-
> dure is to ensure that the two halves of the driveshaft are as co-
> linear as possible. During installation the center bearing housing
> can be adjusted up & down with shims and left and right with slots
> in the mounting holes on the housing. I marked the bolt locations
> on the housing and installed the same shims that were originally
> present.
> ***
> AFTERTHOUGHT INSERTED AT AN APPROPRIATE LOCATION: You might want to
> test the axial bearing and u-joint at this point to verify that they
> need to be replaced! The bearing might have a gritty feel as it is
> turned or make noise as the housing is spun as fast as possible.
> ***
> Now that you've got the driveshaft out you will see that there is a
> nut that holds the fore end of the u-joint yoke to the the fore-shaft.
> It was not possible for me to fit an open-end wrench in there to
> loosen the nut until I had disassembled the u-joint & yoke (but I
> would recommend trying it because it would certainly be preferrable
> to keep the u-joint intact). This was done by removing the spring
> clips for the cups in the fore-shaft yoke and then using a socket
> as a drift punch to remove the cups. It should be possible to remove
> the spider from the foreshaft yoke after both cups have been removed,
> but it seems to me that I removed all 4 cups for some reason. I re-
> commend keeping track of which cup attaches to which leg of the spider,
> but that probably doesn't matter since they are machined parts.
> While you're at this point it is possible to check for proper lubri-
> cation of the bearings in the u-joint and scoring on the bearing
> surface of the spider.
> ***
> ANOTHER AFTERTHOUGHT: I used a mallet and sockets to disassemble the
> u-joint. It is probably much more civilized to create a makeshift
> press using appropriately sized sockets and a bench vise.
> ***
> With the u-joint disconnected from the fore yoke it should be possible
> to get a socket in there to loosen the nut. I held the fore-shaft in a
> vise to keep it from turning. Once the nut is removed the yoke can be
> taken off (it is splined to the fore-shaft. You may need to squirt a
> little penetrating lubricant in there to help.
>
> Once the yoke is removed the axial bearing and housing can be removed
> from the foreshaft. The bearing was not pressed on, but it did take a
> little work to get it off.
>
> Looking at the bearing & housing it will be apparent which way the bear-
> ing comes out. It is pressed in, but it isn't too tough to press the
> bearing out with a mallet and something large enough to keep the housing
> stationary (I don't remember, but I probably adjusted the width of the
> vise jaws to be about the OD of the bearing and then used a socket as a
> drift punch (love that Craftsman guarantee :) It wouldn't be a big deal
> to take the thing to a machine shop to do it right. The part number for
> the bearing can be read at this point and a suitable replacement procured.
> (I'll try to remember to look around this weekend to see if I have the old
> bearing laying around for the actual part #, but I think it is long gone)
>
> Reassembly is the reverse of disassembly, but be very careful when reassem-
> bling the u-joint. It is tough to know if one of the needle bearings has
> fallen into the bottom of the cup while you are driving the end caps back
> onto the spider. As I recall I had to insert the spider into the fore-
> shaft yoke (after reassembling the fore-shaft, bearing & housing and fore-
> shaft yoke of course!) and then install the cups by hand. It is probably
> best to use a vise to get the cups inserted as far as possible into the
> yoke (maybe even all the way with the help of a couple of sockets). Then
> replace the spring clips and you're ready to reinstall the driveshaft in
> the car. Go ahead and grease the u-joint before installation (service
> interval is 15K miles). Also remember to clean off the sealing surfaces
> on the CV joint and the mounting flanges and to replace the seals when
> everything goes back together.
>
> All in all the procedure is not too involved and I'd rather do this than
> change a stupid water pump! I replaced the bearing on the ur-Q shortly
> after I got the car, and it's given me ~8 years of trouble free service.
> I have tried to be thorough in my description, but feel free to contact
> me if you need further clarification!
>
> Glad to have a chance to help out on the net!
> Steve Buchholz
> s_buchho@kla.com
>
> BTW - I didn't get a chance to look up the bearing # last weekend. Let
> me know if anyone would like me to head up a posse.
>
> ------------------------------
>
> From: cmice@mke.ab.com (Christopher Ice)
> Date: Mon, 9 Jan 1995 12:11:16 -0600
> Subject: Re: 1995 Quattro Club Event Schedule
>
> So I guess this nix'es the rumor that the Quattro Club had gone under?
>
> Chris
>
> - --
> --------
> +---------------------| _ /| |---------------------+ Opinions expressed
> | Chris Ice, CMfgT | \`o_O' | Allen-Bradley Co. | are mine and don't
> | CMIce@mke.AB.com | ( ) | 1201 S. Second St. | reflect views of my
> | (414) 382-2136 | U | Milwaukee, WI 53204 | employer. So there!
> +---------------------| Ack! |---------------------+
> Amiga 2000/030@33MHz -------- 1988 Audi 90 Quattro
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> From: cmice@mke.ab.com (Christopher Ice)
> Date: Mon, 9 Jan 1995 12:16:36 -0600
> Subject: EC Back Issue...
>
> Just wanted to have someone check something. I am missing the August 1994
> issue of Europen Car and am looking for an article that might be in it.
>
> If someone has this mag, can they check to see if there's an article in
> there on the Lancia Scorpion/MonteCarlo. If so, I would like to get a copy
> of it (either snail mail or scanned->email).
>
> TIA,
> Chris
>
> - --
> --------
> +---------------------| _ /| |---------------------+ Opinions expressed
> | Chris Ice, CMfgT | \`o_O' | Allen-Bradley Co. | are mine and don't
> | CMIce@mke.AB.com | ( ) | 1201 S. Second St. | reflect views of my
> | (414) 382-2136 | U | Milwaukee, WI 53204 | employer. So there!
> +---------------------| Ack! |---------------------+
> Amiga 2000/030@33MHz -------- 1988 Audi 90 Quattro
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> From: Dave Lawson <dlawson@ball.com>
> Date: Mon, 09 Jan 95 11:03:00 mst
> Subject: RE: 5000 S window switches
>
> I know the ones from the 4000 series can be taken apart. When I changed over
> the interior of my TQC, I went with the "new style" switches. Upon
> installation, not 1 of the 4 switches worked. But a switch from my 86 GT
> worked, so I knew the wiring was good. The switches can be careully pried
> apart and the side cover removed. Now the contacts can be seen. I took emery
> cloth and sand paper and cleaned each contact. Now all of them work.
> -
> Dave Lawson dlawson@ball.com
>
> ------------------------------
>
> From: bbell@csn.net (Bruce Bell)
> Date: Mon, 9 Jan 1995 11:19:54 -0700
> Subject: Re: don't try this at home - FOLLOW-UP
>
> >Doesn't (didn't ???) Callaway (in Conneticut?) make turbo kits for the
> >various 4-cyl Audis (and VWs)? The only thing I've heard from them in
> >the recent past is about their Corvettes . . .
> >
> > -RDH
>
> Callaway made a turbo kit for the 4000Q during the mid '80s. THe kit was
> complete with ex manifold, smaller AC compesser etc. VW&Porsche did a
> series on this where they installed it in a Coupe GT. The turbo produced
> 10psi at that time. I called Callaway in 1988 ,fall, and was told the kit
> was out of production but with a substantial deposit they would make one for
> me. Seems they would have to get an exhaust manifold cast special. At that
> time they claimed 12psi and wanted $6000+ for the kit.
>
> Bruce
>
> bbell@csn.org (Bruce Bell)
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> From: steveb@newkla.kla.com (Steven Buchholz)
> Date: Mon, 9 Jan 95 09:57:37 PST
> Subject: Extrude Honing & Turbo magazine
>
> Just wanted to apprise the net about the recent edition of Turbo (& Hi-tech
> Performance(?)) magazine. There was a quick blurb in there on the Audi S6
> as well as a somewhat quantitative evaluation of Extrude Honing on a 5.0
> Mustang. They used a motor that had some work done to it but no port &
> polish, but the head & manifolds were stock. Dyno results showed 20HP
> increase, but they noticed that the 1/4 mile times indicated even more
> than a 20HP increase (~1/2 second decrease from ~14 to ~13.5). Since
> the results were questionable they did a less scientific test on another
> motor and saw similar (or slightly better) results in 1/4 mile results.
> Overall evaluation ... results similar to aftermarket GT 40 heads, w/o
> having to buy a new head.
>
> Steve Buchholz
>
> ------------------------------
>
> From: jdouglas@mitre.org (jason douglas)
> Date: Mon, 9 Jan 95 13:05:02 EST
> Subject: Re: 5000 S window switches
>
> >
> >Hi all. Well, I'm getting ready to place and order for several
> >new window switches for my '86 5000 S, and it occurred to me that
> >perhaps the old ones may be salvagable. Does anyone know what the
> >failure mode is on these things? Is it just cruddy contacts, that
> >could be remedied by disassembling the thing and cleaning? Or is
> >it more permanent, like something actually broken? Do they even
> >come apart? (don't have one in front of me at the moment,
> >unfortunately....)
>
> The *usual* failure mode is corrosion on the contacts. On the driver's
> door, one usually sees this first on the outside (i.e., left) switches,
> perhaps because they are closer to the outside of the car.
>
> Many folks have found disassembly, cleaning, and reinstallation not too
> tough. It won't take that much time either. Considering that the switches
> are around $25 at a dealer, it makes sense to do it. There is no real trick
> to disassembling them - you just have to pry the case apart.
> - ------------------------------------------------------
> Jason Douglas
> MTS Dept G057 Voice: (703) 883-7016
> MITRE Corporation Fax: (703) 827-5106
>
> Snail Mail: MS Z160
> The MITRE Corporation
> 7525 Colshire Drive
> McLean, VA 22102
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> From: Joe D Geller <geller@world.std.com>
> Date: Mon, 9 Jan 1995 13:12:10 +0001 (EST)
> Subject: Vacuum
>
> Regarding the vacuum present a the dipstick ('91 100Q). When my car is
> cold (32F) there is no vacuum a the o-ring sealed dipstick. AFter a few
> minutes I can feel suction. Is this normal?
> Reason why I ask- sometimes the engine speed gets very low when coming
> from high speed to a stop (5 speed tranny).
>
> ------------------------------
>
> End of Quattro Digest V1 #445
> *****************************
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