RE: bearings and bounces

["steve powers" <spowers@spdg.COM>]

Dan asks:
>On to bearings...  I need to replace a wheel bearing (front left)
>on my 1988 90 non-q.  I've started calling places in the vendors
>list (don't forget folks, update me if you have good/bad info on 
>vendors so it's easier for all to parse through the file!) but
>I thought I'd ask to see if anyone had any specific recommendations.
>IPC is the only place that sells a 'kit' so far, and GPR says there
>is a different bearing depending on if the car was built before or
>after 4/88.  Oh joy.
>
>Any specific tips on doing this job? (other than what's in the 
>archives.)  I think I'll remove whatever I need to get a 'portable'
>piece I can take to a shop and have them press in the new bearing.
>I haven't looked at the book yet, and I've never done it before, so
>other than removing the wheel, axle nut, brakes, and strut (?) I'm
>not sure what else is in there...

Just finished my complete suspension and will give the gory details
re: what to do (and what not to) in a subsequent post.

About vendors. I dropped about $1200 or so with Carlsen and have been
very impressed with their service. I've dealt with both Mike and
Linda - they're both good, but Mike knows the vehicles a bit better.

Mike would locate non-Audi source parts, e.g. wheel bearings at a
lower price and ship them out to me. The parts are OEM (FAG bearings
and Lobro CV joints), so if you can live w/out the Audi box you'll
save some money.

Pay someone to remove _and_ replace the bearing. If you bring in the
strut, they'll do it quite easily. I paid $20 per wheel in Seattle.

The Job
You need to remove the strut. Loosen (not remove) all lugnuts and
loosen the axle nut before lifting the car. The axle nut will require
a 1/2" minimum drive and a stout socket (I used a 1-1/4" impact, 6
sided). Put the socket on the breaker bar and the whole thing on the
nut. Stand on the bar (carefully) - it should 'melt' as it breaks
loose. After you break it loose, lift the car.

Brake Removal
Remove wheel, but leave axle nut intact. Remove caliper and wire it
to something inside the wheel well (out of your way). Remove your
rotor. These tend to stick a bit. A deadened blow hammer works well,
carefully applied. If you replace a lug bolt or two the rotor won't
hit the floor when it comes loose! Remove also the rotor shield to
give you better access.

Strut Bushing
You'll want to loosen the strut at the top. This takes a 7mm hex
key and a CO sensor removal tool. The CO sensor removal tool is
a 6 pt. deep 3/4"/22mm socket with one side removed (e.g. it
has 5 sides). I've got an extra 7mm hex key - long handled that
I'll sell you for what I paid ($12). otherwise, go to a metric
supply house because you won't find it at Sears or any auto place.
It's a bastard size!!! Once loosened, leave finger tight so it
won't fall out until you're ready to remove it.

Steering Arm Ball Joint
Removing the ball joints is easy if you remember that they've been
there awhile. They want to stay there so you need a way to 'compress'
the tapered shaft into the steering arm. A ball joint press usually
works although they do come in different sizes. A C-clamp can suffice.
All you want to do is compress the ball joint into the arm so that
when you try to remove the nut, the ball joint stays put (e.g. doesn't
spin in place). This is really only a problem on the steering arm
in front and the tie-rods in the rear. (you'll want to leave the
control arm ball joint nut finger tight to prevent rotation of
the strut)

Control Arm Ball Joint
The control arm ball joint is retained with a bolt on the strut.
Once you've removed the locking bolt, you simply need to pry down
on the control arm. You'll also need to remove the lower nut and
washer from the sway bar. There is a flat (12mm) on the connecting
bolt where you can keep it from turning. Be careful here - it takes
a bit of force to get the joint loose and things can happen quickly!

If you've gotten this far, everything is loose and you now understand
what needs to be removed. Remove all finger tight bolts (strut
bushing, steering arm ball joint and remove. You may want to think
about rubber replacement, e.g. strut bushing. The re-assembly is
obvious after you've taken it apart. Be sure to replace all of
the nylon locking nuts.

good luck - hope this helps (Bentley helped me!!)

- steve