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Turbo replacement notes 5ktq
Well folks, the 15 hr marathon Rs2 session is over, so I thought I'd share my
thoughts regarding the IIWTDIAOVA (if I were to do it all over again) notes,
sorry so long, but its a printer if you think you'll ever have to do the job:
* Makes sure you have available
The four oil to turbo/block gaskets (had the turbos only, but some
problems developed on removal so I had to take the feed line out with the
turbo attached (reinstall leaks at the block cuz no new gasket). Audi says
all turbo associated gaskets are dry app, agree and found some residue in the
lines from the last install who used sealant.
I would have replaced the coolant lines b-cuz the goop created makes for
a very hi stress removal. They look like there is easy access to both ends
of these lines. (rusted 4heat cycles and 5 WD40). These look to be pretty
standard brake line apps (read cheaper than the oil lines). Also, if you
have a previous install the chances are good that the last guy over torqued
the fittings. Also get the two compression ring fittings for the coolant to
t-husing fittings
The exhaust man to turbo and the turbo to downpipe gaskets, a good move
and mine disintegrated on removal. also dry app.
The lower turbo oil return line uses two hex bolts with wavy wahers
attached. these are a nonstandard size, definitely a dealer part
Have available at the least one of each: turbo to downpipe nuts (18.00
dealer) and a turbo to man nut (8.00 dealer, 15mm wrench on a 10mm stud,
hardware store has this as a 17mm nut, ok for the outside 2 apps, but too big
for the downpipe side). Did not find any easy way to get the Exhaust
downpipe nut (upper engine side) off, lots of key words, finally cut it off
with the dremel. Be very careful on the fooling with the downpipe stud
threads, those studs are titanium and 20.00 a piece.
No torque wrench will get at all the nuts no matter what, so test your
bionics against your torque wrench b4 attacking the nuts, I believe the spec
is 25/42 ft/lbs man/downpipe. I didn't take off the oil cooler lines and my
knuckles paid for that. The alt can be tied to the side, but don't
remove(re: bentley says pull). The RS2 app uses a larger diam air intake,
started to rip the boot so used heat gun and soap to coax, just made it. If
I had the necc parts, I'm figuring 6-8hr from drive in to out (actual 15 incl
kleenup). Used just jack stands, don't believe the hoist really helps here,
a good creeper is better. The oil feed lines looked brand new (dealer gets
200.00ea) and was told and agree don't replace unless leaking, they are some
serious duty parts.
remove air hose and clamp for the engine mount cooling you need the room.
Also, bentley doesn't call for the removal of the rear heat shield, do it,
you need the room (10mm nut back by cat along with the 3 screws the manual
shows on top) O2 was not removed but the co line was, don't regret that move
either. Be prudent with the heatgun torch around the turbo, go light you
don't want to coke those bearings!! Get extra nuts (at least 3 ea) for the
turbo/man studs (10mm) and the oil feed line studs. make sure you clean all
threads and connections with a brass brush (only got the one leak). Also,
found that the alignment of the RS2/S4 app is different that the 5ktq, much
easier to do the twisting (3 variables: exh/bearing housing/intake) on the
bench, forgot the bearing housing alignment and had to adj while on the motor
(no free play at the oil return line), not fun...
The benefits of the RS2 will follow, trying to be careful to run a few heat
cycles b4 the bonzai runs, but initial driving shows gains all the way from
2100rpm to redline against the EH Stock turbo app (Using the same stage II IA
mods and 272 cam, no change in initial perameters). RS2 is quieter and
definitely runs cooler than the stock. Currently can see 1.8bar by 2400-2500
compared to 28-3100 on the stock. Plan to add IA Stage III and look at the
exhaust with the help of Borla b4 too long... Hope this helps all who were
asking on the net.
Scott
PDQSHIP@AOL.COM
'87 5ktqRS2 320hp