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Turbo bypass valve
All
<<Me, being an electrical engineer and NEVER doing things
the easy way ... I wired up a quickie circuit with a separate relay to
switch the line going to the "power" connection on and off using the
switch that activates the buzzer when there is a key in the ignition to
enable the main power when a key is installed in the ignition switch.
I do like my implementation.>>
As you should! Very elegant solution. I think I'll do this when I get
into the instrument panel in the spring. I hate turning off the radio every
time I get out of the car.
<<Secondly, I believe that the placement of the valve would be preferred as
close to the T-Body a possible, my thinking is that you want to maintain turbo
pressure up to and as close to the throttle body. My other reasoning is that if
you are dumping air back into the turbo inlet you would want (if a choice) that
air as cool as possible, read after the intercooler...>>
Is this to mean, Scott, that you would circulate air through the
intercooler while off-throttle? (BTW, the Saab I looked at had this feature,
lending credence to what you are saying) That would slow down the turbo since
the intercooler poses a resistance to airflow. I was thinking about a bypass
valve right at the compressor outlet, feeding into the compressor inlet, within
inches of each. I guess we would have to weigh the pros and cons of better
airflow vs cooler airflow.
On a different note, I got my new Autometer boost gauge installed last
night. I put it on the left side of the instrument pod, with the wires and hose
sneaking down through the radio grill. I am getting a little over 7 psi with
everything stock except a bypass around the boost control solenoid. _Now_ it is
time to start cranking up the boost.
Later,
Graydon