switch repair procedure

[michael@leds.enet.qntm.com]

Several folks have asked question on the heated seat switch light bulb
replacement, so I wrote the procedure I used to to do it. It is NOT a matter 
of just pulling the bulb out after the  front cover is popped off, as a 
previous note suggested (that is the case with the other switches). The seat 
heater switches have the bulbs soldered in. Seems they are specificially 
designed to make you go out and spend $82.95 every 40,000  miles.

Parts: Replacement Bulb,  Radio Shack part number 272-1092. ($1.49  for two)

Tools:
A small screwdriver. 
A soldering iron. 
Solder wick wire. 
5 minute epoxy orsome other non-flowing adhesive. 
Needle nose pliers. 
9v battery with leads

Pry the black case off the tabs in the base and pull the switch out of the case.

Bend the small spade terminal latch tangs inward to line up with the slot in
the plastic base.

Sequentially push the spades out, a little at a time, to remove the plastic
base from the circuit assembly. Do NOT try to pull the base off the spades - you
will pull the spades off the circuit board.

One at a time, melt (with the soldering iron) the 4 round posts of red plastic 
that that stick through the circuit board while prying the red plastic housing 
apart from the circuit board. Pull the circuit board streight off the red 
housing  .  Do this with the red plastic housing on the table top and the 
circuit board facing upwards, because there is a tiny ball bearing in a recess 
in the plastic housing that you will loose if you do it the other way around.

                           __    __           __
                           |     |            | = Spade Teminals 
                        CCCCCCCCCCCCCC        C = Circuit Board
			H            H        H = Housing
			H    0       H        0 = Tiny Ball Bearing
			HHHHHHHHHHHHHH 


Remove the solder holding the bulb  using the solder wick and iron.

Cut the leads on the new bulb to the correct length and solder it in the 
same way as the old one.

Test with a 9 V battery to  make sure it works.

Assembly is the reverse of disassembly. Make sure the ball bearing is in its 
little recesse, and that it deosn't pop out when you snap the circuit board 
back onto the red housing. Re-melt the red posts that stick through the circuit
board. If you broke the posts during disassembly, put a small blob of quick-
dry adhesive on the hole to bond the board to the post.