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Re: Skunked - Literally
>Do any of you AGAs (Audi Gurus of America) know of a "cure" for a skunked car -
>got a brand new V*l*o in the herd (300miles) and the exterior got sprayed.
>We've done the car wash deal twice - and can't tell exactly what parts have
been
>sprayed - stinky~!!!!
>
>any ideas????/
>
>Odiferously yours,
>
>Randy...
>
>
Randy,
"Eau d' Skunk" is a mercaptan or a hydrosulfide mixture (largely butyl
mercaptan - C4H9-SH) which is a mildly acidic material. To wash it away
from your Swedish brick ovloV you need a basic or alkaline substance to
dissolve it. The principle is the weaker the acid, the stronger the base
needed to dissolve it. Start with a weak base and work up to stronger ones
as needed. Don't go too strong or you may lose a car finish.
I'd suggest getting a box of baking soda, NaHCO3, (maybe a large economy
size :-) )and making up a solution of sodium bicarbonate in water. Use the
clear solution, not any undissolved (abrasive) paste in the bottom of the
pail. If you use enough water, there won't be any paste. Use a mop or
sponge, well soaked in the bicarb solution, to wash the car. Be generous
with the solution. Pay close attention to any cracks and crevices in which
the skunk juice can remain without being contacted with the bicarb solution.
Rinse THOROUGHLY with clear water. You may need to repeat this treatment
another time or three to get *all* the mercaptan removed. If any bicarb
deposits remain due to incomplete rinsing, don't wipe it off dry. It is a
mild abrasive and could leave wipe marks. It will dissolve and rinse away
with enough water.
If the bicarb is not quite strong enough to get the mercaptans then you
could try the process again using washing soda, Na2CO3. This is a stronger
base and will be better at dissolving the mercaptan but it is also
potentially more damaging to the finish because it IS a stronger base. If
you use it, work quickly on a small area and rinse quickly before the
washing soda has much opportunity to work on the finish. It probably won't
effect the finish, but take care anyway. I'd suggest testing a small more
or less non visible area as a test area like maybe a portion of the air dam
below the front bumper or someplace like that before going whole hog on the
entire car.
Once the major part of the mercaptan is gone, use the sniffometer to find
any remaining traces and wash them away also. Either that, or live with it
for a while until it slowly evaporates away.
If there is any mercaptan on the under side of the ovloV ya gotta get that,
too. Here a solution of bicarb sprayed with some sort of sprayer may be of
help. Do you have a large garden sprayer? Or maybe one of those mixing
hose end sprayers for fertilizer or lawn insect sprays? Spray it on with
abandon. Then hose it off. There are so many potential hiding places here
that you probably will need to work it over several times to get it all if
even then.
Butyl mercaptan will also be suceptible to oxidation with chlorine bleach.
You may be able to get rid of much of the odor using some diluted "el-cheapo
brand" chlorine bleach. I make absolutely no recommendation about the
effect of chlorine bleach on an automotive finish. You are on your own if
you decide to go this route. Perhaps this might be appropriate for
under-car application. I make no recommendation. Be sure to rinse
***thoroughly*** if you use chlorine bleach.
Have fun. :-) Good luck.
Bob
**********************************************************
* Robert L. Myers <rmyers@olie.wvitcoe.wvnet.edu> *
* Chair, Department of Chemistry, WVIT *
* Home:(304) 574-2372 Office: (304) 442-3358 *
* Obligatory references for Quattro and Sleddog Lists: *
* My Huskies like to ride in my '89 200TQ. *
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