Audi Battery

["Al Powell" <APOWELL@agcom.tamu.edu>]

> From: Minven Wang <mwang@stern.nyu.edu> asked:
> Last weekend, my car battery died, [snip]  The problem is, the battery I currently use (size 42, CCA 450) is 
> not the same as the original, and I don't know what is the right size and 
> Cold Cranking Amps for my car, 1986 Audi 5000 non-turbo.  Anyone knows?
> 
> I remenber some time ago there was a post about a Sears DieHard Battery
> uesd for Audi.  Which battery is it?  Is there much price/performence 
> difference for a Sears battery and others?

I think that was my post.  My philosophy with batteries (and a very 
successful one) has always been that regardless of the "required 
duty" ratings, I get the most powerful battery that will fit in the 
space available!  This works OK with batteries in open engine 
compartments, but there's a caveat with Audis and VW's....having the 
stupid thing under the back seat.

I personally (pure opinion) don't think there's much difference 
between batteries unless you go from, say, a standard unit to one of 
the new cathanode (sp?) units...or one of those which has a "back-up" 
section to get you going if you run down the primary section.

ANYHOW...there are two critical characteristics a replacement 
battery should have:

1)  Since batteries DO give off acid fumes, you fill find that there 
is a silicone hose/tube under the seat.  The replacement battery MUST 
have a small tube sticking out the side; its purpose is to vent all 
battery gases out that tube only.  The silicone hose goes over that 
vent tube and conducts the acid fumes outside the car.  If this is 
NOT done, the fumes will eventually eat a hole in the foam under that 
seat!  If the replacement battery is not equipped with suah a vent 
tube, it is not the correct one, and should not be used except for 
VERY short-term use in an emergency.

2)  Since there are metal seat springs above the positive terminal, 
the battery HEIGHT and a non-conductive SHIELD over the positive 
terminal are important.  You don't want Fat Uncle Bertie to land on 
that seat, short the positive terminal to a seat springs, and melt 
your seat and his butt - or start a terribly attractive smelling foam 
rubber fire. (People will think your deodorant has seriously failed 
you if you're confined in a car with burning foam rubber!!)  The 
proper replacement batteries are slightly shorter than standard, and 
come with a plastic shield which should be installed over the 
positive terminal to prevent shorts (or burning shorts, whatever...)

Just call Sears, Wards, etc. and ask what they have and the price.  
Any place that knows their stuff should be able to ID the battery at 
once.  You can always ask specifically about the vent tube and the 
shield - and if they don't have a clue as to what you're talking 
about, don't buy it from them.  If you cna more than one place, you 
can also compare cranking amps as well as price -  - more amps is 
(are) better.

I recall that ours was a Sears DieHard "International" series battery 
and ran about 85 buckolas....and it's a good, stout unit.

Lotsa luck

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Al Powell                           Voice:  409/845-2807
Ag Communications                   Fax:    409/862-1202
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       "I'm for abolishing and doing away with redundancy."
           - J.C. McKay, Wisconsin St. Elections Board.
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