Seat Heater light/Soloman Ngan

[Joe Yakubik <75363.2524@compuserve.com>]

For: Soloman Ngan and anyone with burned out seat heater lights:

Compuserve to Internet to netaccess doesn't work so here goes:

The back of the switch is held together by the four brown tabs.  Two small flat
bladed screwdrivers can pop this loose, (or one with a lot of jiggling/jockeying
around).  The two retention springs will probably fall out, but they go back in
easily.  The red plastic housing slides off sideways, but is held in place by
four small "feet" or tabs.  I ended up breaking all of these,  so I'm not sure
if they are glued in or just very tight.  They fit into the four smaller round
holes.  The black plastic switch housing would also hold the switch together if
they do break, so I don't think it's a disaster if they do break off.  I
recommend working with the red part down/circuit board side up and LIFTING the
circuit board/brown plastic part/pin out assembly away; otherwise you may lose
the little ball bearing.  It's a little bigger than a ball point pen tip and
fits into the red plastic part and causes the clicking at each number/detent.
After this you can see the bulb and the solder, and from here it should be
self-explanatory.  Reassembly is, of course, the reverse sequence.  The black
housing only fits onto the brown part one way, and remember to re-install the
retention springs before snapping the switch all the way back together.

I have no idea what wattage the bulb is.  For anyone with a really sensitive
ohmmeter, a working seat heater switch light and a strong desire to help: the
bulb is directly connected to pins 3 and 5 on the switch.  No need to dismantle
your switch to figure it out.  With my $13.95 multi-meter I measure zero
impedance across a working bulb and infinite across the bad bulb.

Hope this helps, $140 cdn is way too much to pay for a light bulb, even from
Audi.

Joe Yakubik