MISC COUPE TIPS

[Porsray@aol.com]

I am writing this to address a number of different issues I have seen
regarding the '90 - '91 Coupe Quattros (and the generic 80/90 seat heater
switch lights).  Hope it isn't overly long, but I felt like sending just
one message rather than a bunch.

1) NON-WORKING AM & COUPE ANTENNAES

On the Coupes, there is only one antenna.  If FM is working OK (maybe
station gathering weaker than expected) but AM is dead, I feel prime cause
is a dead antenna.  I had a stereo shop troubleshoot my system and tell me
the problem was the stereo.  After getting a aftermarket "upgrade"
(Crutchfield; included an adapater kit which is a MUST on these cars due to
the amps for the rear speakers), I installed it and STILL had no AM.  I
then read somewhere that a dead AM is primarly due to the antenna.

On purchasing a new antenna, you can go aftermarket or dealer.  While the
two antennas look identical, they aren't the same at the mounting point;
the dealer unit has a square "flange" that mates with a square hole in the
roof.  The aftermarket unit has a round "flange", so you will struggle to
align it right in the roof (use plenty of RTV sealant to glue it in place,
and have an assistant hold the antenna in place while you tighten the
mounting nut).  As I remember, the rear trim piece at the junction of the
roof and the hatch needs to be removed, then you have just enough room to
get your hands and wrenches on the antenna mounting by pulling the roof
liner down.


2) SEAT HEATER SWITCH BULBS

Yes, the bulbs are replaceable, but they weren't meant to be!  Get some of
the small bulbs used to illuminate the anti-lock brake and fog light
switches; these are tiny all-glass bulbs with two wires sticking out the
back. Bend the wires back away from the bulb.

The switch can be removed by prying at the top and the bottom with a
screwdriver.  Disconnect the harness from the switch (more on this later).

You will note that there is a black plastic "case" surrounding the switch,
with a brown plastic body where the conectors stick through.  You will see
four "nubs" on the body that hold the case in place.  What you have to do
is to jam a small jewelers screwdriver in between the case and the body on
the sides with the "nubs", and pry up on the outside case enough to free
the body from the case.  Slide the case off of the body.  You will now see
a red plastic molding with the bulb in it, with a circuit board on one side
and the rotary dial for the heat position wedged in between the end of the
red molding and the circuit board.  You have to unsolder the bulb and
replace it, but I don't think it's possible with the unit assembled like
this; I disconnected the red molding from the board by laying the assembly
down with the board facing me, then prying in between the circuit board and
the molding at the location of the fastening posts.  MAKE SURE THAT YOU
DON'T KNOCK THE DIAL OUT OF IT'S GROOVE IN THE RED MOLDING; THERE IS A
TEENY-TINY METAL BALL THAT IS USED AS THE DETENT THAT WILL INVARIBLY FLY
OUT AND GET LOST.  With the circuit board free of the molding, the old bulb
can be desoldered and the new one soldered in it's place.  Hold the circuit
board and the molding together and slide them into the case (there's enough
of an interference fit so that I don't think you have to glue the board and
molding back together again).

Now, more fun; in my case when I pulled the switch out of the instrument
panel, the harness wasn't long enough to stick out through the switch hole.
As a result, I couldn't push the switch back onto the harness (nothing to
prevent it from being forced right back into the abyss in the panel).  I
had to remove the radio (4 ~1/8" drill bits in the 4 holes at the corner
face, then pry horizontally away from the radio to disconnect it from the
panel).  I then used an Allen head wrench stuck up into the switch panel
hole from behind the harness to hold it in position so I could connect the
switch.

3) HEATER BLOWER

I just replaced my heater blower for the second time (i.e., this is my
THIRD blower).  The second one only lasted two years, primarily because it
was rebuilt, not new.  The new one was obtained from Hoehn
(1-800-984-6346), and had some differences from my old one.  On the old one
(and the original), the blower unit was held to the plastic flange/mounting
plate via two screws; this one was held by three rubber intererence plugs.
The location for the wire connector is on the flat of the mounting plate,
rather than the cover over the motor.  The manufacturer is "Veleo"; the
original was "Sofica" and remanufactured by "Veleo".  Also, there is a
manufacturing date on the flange; the old one was 1988, while the new one
was 1995.  Cost, for info, was $138; more than others quoted, but I'm
pretty confident this one is new and not rebuilt (Hoehn is a Porsche/Audi
dealer).  Their part no. was 8A1-820-021.  I have been dealing with them
for several years now for both Porsche and Audi parts ahd have nothing but
praise for them; unblike many of the aftermarket I have dealt with, they
are knowledgeable and generally have had anything I need in stock.

4)  LUGGAGE COMPARTMENT COVER

If you are getting significant amount of squeaking from the luggage cover
over rough roads, I recommend replacing the two rear clip mountings that
it locks into.  Total cost for them was $17 at Hoehn; part nos. are:
        895-863-621-01 and 895-863-622-01 (there is a color code at the
        end also, I believe; Black is "C")

Well, that's all I have; hope I didn't bore you.

Ray (porsray@aol.com)