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Clutches & Trannies



> From: Alex Zhukovsky <azhukovs@fac.har.sunysb.edu>

> When she called she was told that the clutch is "slipping" (!) and the
> car needs a new one. I can hardly beleive that this is true for I know
> how the problem started. But could it be that one of the plates got
> broken and was blocking enetering into the gear and then somehow
> relocated   (etc....)

Alex, this is a bit weird, but the clutch is simply not dis-engaging 
when presed down.  As long as you can start the car in gear and shift 
by matching revs, you can get it a ways, but clearly it's not a good 
situation.

IF you can get it to a hill, you can always try putting a load on it 
while going uphill (like full-bore acceleration in 2nd starting at low 
speed) and see if the clutch DOES slip.  If you get a rev increase which is not 
reflected in road speed  - usually when the engines comes on the cam 
and makes power - then your clutch is slipping.  But if you can't 
make it slip 



so that you can shift into gears when the motor is on, but
> the clutch is slipping since there is not enough pressure, or is it
> still the cable, or is it something else? There was no slightest sign
> of slipping before! I will greatly appreciate all the responses!
> Thanks, Alex Zhukovsky.
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> From: Michael LaRosa <76761.1444@compuserve.com>
> Date: 11 Apr 96 18:34:26 EDT
> Subject: Sludge........
> 
> Hi Peter,
> 
> Regarding the sludge.....  Do you use Dino or synthetic ?
> 
> Drive it long or short distances ?
> 
> I've switched from Dino to Synthetic (Mobil 1) in my wife's 89 100
> Avant at 101k miles. (she does all short distance driving...)
>  
> No more tapping when it's started and the sludge seems to subsiding.....  
> 
> Just my .02 here :-)
> 
> ==================================================
> Mike LaRosa		INCASES Engineering N.A.
> Manager,			20 Trafalgar Square
> EDA Technical Support	Suite 403
> 603-881-5392		Nashua, NH
> 603-881-5467 Fax		03063
> E-Mail:  76761.1444@compuserve.com
> ==================================================
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> From: Steve Powers <spowers@spdg.COM>
> Date: Thu, 11 Apr 1996 15:49:45 -0700
> Subject: Re: quattro evolution
> 
> Glen asks:
> 
> >How does 'EDL' work? Is it just electronically controlled 100% mech =
> >locking diffs as used in the first gen qs? Does it use the ABS to sense=
> >slip?
> 
> per the manual, EDL uses the ABS sensors to detect wheel slip. Once detected,
> the EDL engages the brakes to cause the Torsen to shift the torque to another
> wheel. The unit also detects speed (works at < 35 mph) and temperature of the
> brakes (dunno what temp.).
> 
> Although this system in on the '96 A6s, the late '95 S6s have it too. You
> can't find a word about it in the S6 manual. I asked for an A6 manual which
> was provided to me gratis. (I probably paid for it twice...)
> 
> - -steve powers                                                    '95.75 S6W
> seattle, wa
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> From: Stephen Williams <mannlaw@indy.net>
> Date: Thu, 11 Apr 1996 17:46:55 -0500 (EST)
> Subject: Flames under the hood
> 
> 	Regarding the flammability of "Water Wetter"--I have no idea.  
> However, harkening back to what "experts" have told me after promising to 
> tell the truth, I recall that EVERYTHING that is liquid and living under 
> your hood is flammable, excepting perhaps your windshield washer stuff.  
> The key, or so I've been told is not "will it ignite" but rather "at what 
> temperature will it ignite".  Very interesting stuff regarding gasoline 
> fed fires in vehicles made by one of the Big 3.  "It's not the gasoline, 
> stupid, it is the vapors".  Oh, whatever.  Apparently, many things--even 
> when sprayed on the exhaust manifold--refuse to burn.  
> 
> 	FWIW.
> 
> Bruce
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> From: Peter Henriksen <peterhe@microsoft.com>
> Date: Thu, 11 Apr 1996 15:49:58 -0700
> Subject: RE: Questionable service
> 
> I would look into the law requiring mechanics to disclose and get
> authorization for any repairs and charges before doing any work. I'm not
> quite sure how far it goes, but your case sure looks like it should be
> covered.
> 
> I'm not very impressed with Barrier's service dept. myself. I took the
> 200 there to get the rotors done and some other items, among them the
> stalling problem. They reported that they couldn't reproduce the
> stalling problem. Yeah, right. I got it several times a day until I
> started using my usual foot position (right foot on both gas and brake)
> to blip the throttle a little every time the engine is coasting down...
> Dweebs.
> 
> Let me know what happens - they're right down the road from me and
> although I don't plan to take the car back there, I'd like to stay
> up-to-date. Thanks.
> - - peter, peterhe@microsoft.com, redmond, wa
>   91 200qw
>   94 acura legend gs
>   80 mazda 626
>   O-
> 
> >----------
> >From: 	jefj@lightspd.wa.com[SMTP:jefj@lightspd.wa.com]
> >Sent: 	Thursday, April 11, 1996 7:36 AM
> >To: 	quattro@coimbra.ans.net
> >Subject: 	Questionable service
> >
> > About 2 weeks ago I took my CQ in (to Barrier in Bellevue) for a new
> >rr. wiper
> >switch and some re-wirering, all covered under warranty, except for a
> >$35
> >deductable. GIECO came and looked at the car and OK'd the work.
> > After talking with the dealer today he informed me of some "added"
> >charges to
> >my bill, NOT covered by the warranty. These include: a $25 "shop fee"
> >to cover
> >misc shop parts etc., (He says he didn't know how much it would be
> >since it 
> >varies from job to job. Thats why he never mentioned it.) and, he said
> >they
> >added/changed the trany fluid (to synthetic), which I NEVER authorized.
> >The
> >service rep had only SUGGESTED I switch to a synthetic. (I really do
> >not think
> >they changed the fluid at all since it doesn't shift any different.)
> > My question is: Should I have to pay for this extra "shop fee" since I
> >was
> >never told about it in the beginning? I DO NOT/WILL NOT pay for the
> >tranny
> >service. I was originaly told that all I would have to pay was the $35
> >deduct.
> >Just wondering what kind of ground I have to stand on. Its not the $25
> >bucks
> >but the princaple/cheap/sneaky bussiness dealings......man I hate
> >dealerships!
> >Any help/advise would be mucho appreciated!
> >
> >Thanx,
> >Jef
> >jefj@lightspd.wa.com
> >90CQ
> >90FZR1000
> >
> >-- 
> > i n f o @ l i g h t s p d . w a . c o m                               
> >   
> > ------------------------------------------------- L I G H T S P E E D
> >----*
> > Multimedia and Laser Display Artistry --------------- D E S I G N
> >------* 
> > voice:206 637 2818 fax:206 453 7588 data:206 688 0354  G R O U P
> >-----*
> >
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> From: Peter Henriksen <peterhe@microsoft.com>
> Date: Thu, 11 Apr 1996 15:52:26 -0700
> Subject: RE: Sludge........
> 
> Mobil 1 after 12,000 or so miles and it's usually driven around 15 miles
> to work (30 miles round trip) 5 times a week. If I drive, it's 1 mile
> freeway and then surface streets, but my wife has about 10 miles of
> freeway to work...
> 
> I'll try changing oil and filter every 1,000-1,500 miles for the next 3
> changes and then see what happens.
> - - peter
> 
> >----------
> >From: 	Michael LaRosa[SMTP:76761.1444@CompuServe.COM]
> >Sent: 	Thursday, April 11, 1996 3:34 PM
> >To: 	Peter Henriksen
> >Cc: 	quattro
> >Subject: 	Sludge........
> >
> >Hi Peter,
> >
> >Regarding the sludge.....  Do you use Dino or synthetic ?
> >
> >Drive it long or short distances ?
> >
> >I've switched from Dino to Synthetic (Mobil 1) in my wife's 89 100
> >Avant at 101k miles. (she does all short distance driving...)
> > 
> >No more tapping when it's started and the sludge seems to
> >subsiding.....  
> >
> >Just my .02 here :-)
> >
> >==================================================
> >Mike LaRosa		INCASES Engineering N.A.
> >Manager,			20 Trafalgar Square
> >EDA Technical Support	Suite 403
> >603-881-5392		Nashua, NH
> >603-881-5467 Fax		03063
> >E-Mail:  76761.1444@compuserve.com
> >==================================================
> >
> >
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> From: "Bob D'Amato" <Bob.Damato@snetel.com>
> Date: Thu, 11 Apr 1996 19:06:48 -0400 (EDT)
> Subject: Re: Oil filter
> 
> On Thu, 11 Apr 1996, Kevin Boothroyd wrote:
> 
> > 		
> > 		4  for the Mahle OC-85
> >        
> >                 2  for the Mahle OC-47 (includes Shokan of NY)
> > 
> 
> heck.. if Shokan said to use the OC-47, then I would DEFINATELY go with 
> the OC-85. A bigger bunch of F**k-ups, you couldnt find if  you wanted to!
> 
> Bob
> 
> 
> 
> 
> _____________________________________________________________________
>        bob.damato@snetel.com   http://snetel.com/audi/audi.html
>                                                  
> The Southern New England Telephone Co.	     |Phone: 203-771-7081
> Information and Technology Center            |Fax:   203-773-3398
> 300 George St. New Haven CT  06510           |Pager: Dont count on it
> 
>              Drive Safe, Drive Fast, Drive a Quattro
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> From: cobram@channel1.com (Cobram)
> Date: Thu, 11 Apr 1996 19:01:00 -0640
> Subject: Re: Alldata
> 
>  "Al Powell" <APOWELL@agcom.tamu.edu> writes:
> 
>  A-> I remember some recent questions about All Data.  My most technical 
>  A-> mechanic type here subscribes to a professional  AllData service which
>  A-> provides him complete reference manuals, etc. on a wide variety of 
>  A-> cars - the whole thing is on CD-ROM.  This makes a LOT of sense.  
>  A-> No need to have all those manuals, and less expensive (altho I don't 
>  A-> know what he pays for it.)  
> 
>      It may be more convenient, but not less expensive. I'll find out
>      for sure, but the last time I spoke to friend who has Alldata
>      at this shop, was around $5000.00 for the yearly subscription.  
>      It's also not as good as the printed manual, because unless you're 
>      really proficient in it, it'll take you a while to get where you 
>      want to be, and even then, you may find yourself on the phone 
>      calling Alldata for information that is not on the system. 
>      
>      I recently had occasion to use the full Alldata system, and 
>      took me an hour to come to the conclusion that what I needed
>      wasn't anywhere to be found. (Needed a wiring diagram for the
>      AC system on a late model Mercury Tracer) Ended up calling alldata, 
>      and two days later they faxed it. (It was on a Friday, so I don't
>      know their response time on a weeday basis.)
>      
>      I couldn't resist but look up the V8Q, and was wholely 
>      disappointed on what was offered, the procedures are there,
>      but it just lists them in order, no pics, illustrations, etc.
>      like in the factory manuals.
> 
> 
>  A-> Based on this, I'd venture that AllData would be worth exploring as a 
>  A-> source of technical./service information.
> 
>      You can get a free 10 minute trial (actually 15mins) of their
>      phone lookup service too. I recommend not using your real name/
>      address, they email you a special password, and if you have 
>      more than one email address, you can get multiple free
>      trials.
> 
>     BCNU
> 
> ... Se non e vero, e molto ben trovato.
> ___ Blue Wave/QWK v2.12
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> From: Robert Myers <rmyers@wvit.wvnet.edu>
> Date: Thu, 11 Apr 1996 19:06:40 -0400
> Subject: Re: Water Wetter
> 
> Well of course it's flammable.  All oils will burn.  Including the snake
> variety.  :-)
> 
> At 04:23 PM 4/11/96 -0500, you wrote:
> >On Thursday, 11 Apr 1996, Andrew Duane USG/PE wrote:
> >
> >> > >I hear it is also flammable - blow a coolant hose and pooooof!
> >> > >
> >> > >A Pro-Rally friend toasted his car with the stuff -he says NEVER AGAIN!
> >> > >Run away FAST!
> >> 
> >> I have some water wetter, but haven't used it yet. As I recall,
> >> you add about 2 ounces to a radiator full of coolant. It's hard
> >> to imagine how that would be flammable.
> >
> >Since your coolant is probably flamable in the first place, I don't see 
> >how much difference that would make.  I have been told that the 
> >garden-variety 50/50 ethylene glycol and water mix is flamable, but I 
> >have never attempted to prove it.
> >
> >Phil
> >
> >
> 
> ___
> 	Bob 
> ********************************************************************
> *  Robert L. Myers <rmyers@wvit.wvnet.edu> 304-442-1046 (FAX)      *
> *  Chair, Department of Chemistry          304-442-3358 (office)   *
> *  WVU Institute of Technology             304-574-2372 (home)     *
> *  Montgomery, WV  25136                   304-442-3109 (secretary)*
> *            Obligatory Quattro and Sleddog Content:               *
> *        My Siberian Huskies like to ride in my '89 200TQ          *
> ********************************************************************
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> From: Randall Paquette <75313.1445@compuserve.com>
> Date: 11 Apr 96 19:08:09 EDT
> Subject: 5KCSTQ oil filter ANSWER
> 
> The correct filter for the 10v turbo (with single oil filter) is......
> 
> drum roll please.....
> 
> OC-85  
> 
> in fact I have a letter from Mahle responding to my same question only 2 weeks
> old.
> 
> >Also I am still looking for a straight answer to the 
> >correct oil filter for an 87 5000 cs Turbo Quattro.
> 
> >lets have a vote....Mahle oc47 or Mahle oc85
> 
> Randy P.
> 87 5KCSTQ (194k miles)
> 92 VW Passat (78k miles)
> 90 V8 (82k miles) - for sale CHEAP!!!!!!!!
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> From: Randall Paquette <75313.1445@compuserve.com>
> Date: 11 Apr 96 19:07:59 EDT
> Subject: 5KCSTQ: Broken sunvisor
> 
> HEY,
> 
> My sunvisor (drivers side) finally bit the big one.  It falls down going over
> bumps.   It doesn't appear that it can be R&Red because the vinyl is sealed all
> over.  CAN these be fixed, and if not are all visors (and roof liners) the same
> color - mine is dreamish, greyish, whitish/  My interiour is beige leather (with
> suede inserts) and brown dash, etc.
> 
> TIA
> 
> Randy P.
> (no sig yet)
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> From: Bruce Bell <bbell@csn.org>
> Date: Thu, 11 Apr 1996 17:14:20 -0600
> Subject: Comparison of Dunlop D40M2 & SP8000
> 
> This is direct from the Dunlop "Full-Line Brochure" 3/95.
> Amazing; but, the book has no copyright mark on it I can find.
> 
> Several of you requested this info so I'm giving it to you all. I only chose
> sizes I thought would be of the most interest. Really intresting to me how
> the same size tire from one manufacturer could be so different between models.
> 
> Gary Bergman, a wholesale tire distributor in Denver, among others has told
> me the D40M2 is stiffer than the SP8000. I've run the 8000's on my 4kcsq in
> 205x50x15 at Second creek and I noticed they tended to roll over on the
> sidewall. Course, I have stock suspension w/Boge TGas; but, did try boostng
> pressure to nearly 50lbs. I really like the ride of the 8000's though. 
> 
> D40 M2       Rim   Sect.          loaded rolling  revs /   tread
>            width   width   diam.  radius   circ.    mile   width  weight
> 195x50x15     6.5     8.1    22.8    10.6    69.3     914     7.5    21.4
> 205x50x15     6.5     8.5    23.2    10.7    70.5     898     7.8    22.5
> 205x60x15     6.5     8.5    24.8    11.3    75.0     844     7.0    23.1
> 225x50x15     7.0     9.3    24.0    11.0    72.5     874     8.4    26.2
> 225x50x16     7.0     9.3    25.0    11.4    75.5     837     8.4    27.1
> 215x45x17     8.0     8.9    24.6    11.6    74.8     846     8.0    24.9
> 
> SP8000
> 205x50x15     5.5     8.1    23.1    10.6    69.9     906     7.2    21.4
> 205x60x15      Not available in SP8000
> 215x50x15     6.0     8.5    23.5    10.8    71.1     891     7.6    22.3
> 225x50x15     6.0     8.9    23.9    10.9    71.9     881     7.9    23.8
> 225x50x16     6.0     8.9    24.9    11.4    75.5     841     8.5    26.0
> 215x45x17     7.0     8.5    24.6    11.6    74.7     848     7.9    24.4
> 
> 
> 
>  _______________________________________________________________________
>    Bruce Bell                                            bbell@csn.net
>    Bruce Bell and Associates, Inc.                Voice (719) 275-1661
>    P.O. Box 400,  Canon City, Colorado 81215-0400   Fax (719) 275-1664
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> From: "Luke D. Vinogradov" <Luke.VINOGRADOV@ENG.monash.edu.au>
> Date: Fri, 12 Apr 1996 09:34:42 GMT+1000
> Subject: When will my auto die?
> 
> Hello All (especially tranny-meisters!)
> 
> I believe my auto ('81 4k 2.144l) is on its way out.  I have been led 
> to believe this by a) the mechanic telling me so and b) the following 
> symptoms:  fairly loud whining in first (not the diff) particularly 
> under full throttle and on changes, surge/lurch on changes 
> particularly under full throttle, a tendency to wait a little before 
> engaging reverse particularly after a bit of work - I drove it a 
> continuous 400km finishing with a climb up to a ski resort and when I 
> got there the delay had doubled, and the mechanic reported that there 
> was quite a bit of friction material in the pan.
> 
> My question:  in what way will this thing die, and how long might I 
> have?  I have competing priorities for the next $1k on the car 
> (shocks, exhaust) but these others aren't going to leave me stranded 
> all of a sudden.  I might be mistaken, but the car seems to be losing 
> power, and there seems to be (at least below 2500rpm or so) a 
> tendency to feel, well, slushy, i.e. I can rev it up and down by 
> nearly 1000rpm in top without a whole lot happening to road speed.  I 
> know that's what slushies are all about, but my last auto, an old 
> Dasher (similar trans I thought?) was much more responsive, and I 
> think faster off the line (even with a carb) in that something 
> happened at the wheels *before* it had revved itself silly.
> 
> Is it really degenerating, and what should I do?
> 
> Luke
> 
> <>--luke-vinogradov------accident-research-centre---------<>
> <>-----------------------monash-university----------------<>
> <>-----------------------lukev@its-menz.cc.monash.edu.au--<>
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> From: "Luke D. Vinogradov" <Luke.VINOGRADOV@ENG.monash.edu.au>
> Date: Fri, 12 Apr 1996 09:47:27 GMT+1000
> Subject: Smooth idle and ambient temp
> 
> Here I go again, filling my (dumb?) question quota, but you guys 
> know much more than I about combustion etc.
> 
> Anyway, in my other post I mentioned that I took the 4k 5 cyl auto
> to a ski place over the Easter holiday.  I noticed something that
> interested me and I'd like to know why it was so:  my idle in gear,
> which is usually very regular/rhythmic but shakes the car a lot
> especially once warm, had smoothed out completely, the car barely
> wobbled.  One of the eng mounts is pretty tired, and I presumed that
> was the reason it usually vibrates so much, and all the interior
> fitting with it (rattle squeak buzz, it drives me crazy) but up
> there it just seemed to be burning the fuel completely differently. 
> Ambient up there was 8-12C but down here I rarely drive it below 10.  
> Temp gauge said 95-100.
> 
> Was it the air temp, or pressure or what?  How do I make it run like
> that all the time?!
> 
> Thanks,
> Luke
> 
> <>--luke vinogradov------accident-research-centre---------<>
> <>-----------------------monash-university----------------<>
> <>-----------------------lukev@its-menz.cc.monash.edu.au--<>
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> End of quattro-digest V3 #336
> *****************************
> 
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Al Powell                           Voice:  409/845-2807
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