[Author Prev][Author Next][Thread Prev][Thread Next][Author Index][Thread Index]

RE: quattro-digest V3 #789



Dan,    Is this just for a motor or a whole car?    

Doug Evans
dougev@newpig.com
1985 4000S Q
1988 90 Q

PS   did you get my letter yet??

>----------
>From:
>	owner-quattro-digest@coimbra.ans.net[SMTP:owner-quattro-digest@coimbra.
>ans.net]
>Sent: 	Monday, July 29, 1996 11:12 AM
>To: 	quattro-digest@coimbra.ans.net
>Subject: 	quattro-digest V3 #789
>
>
>quattro-digest              Monday, 29 July 1996        Volume 03 :
>Number 789
>
>*
>*  Welcome to the digest version of the quattro list.
>*  See the end of the digest for unsubscribe info.
>*  In this issue:
>RE: Time vs Mileage for Part Replacement for '91 Coupe Quattro
>[none]
>Oil Pressure Idiot Light
>RE: URGENT -- need help
>Fairy tale...
>Re: URGENT -- need help
>Re: A4Q Gas eruption
>5KS Front End Problems - HELP!!! - 2nd Attempt
>Antenna FM/CB
>Re: Low boost and 91 200Q timing belt
>Re: Oil Pressure Idiot Light
>Noisy New Hydraulic Pump
>Re: Antenna FM/CB
>Spare parts for 4000sq
>Re[2]: Antenna FM/CB
>Re: Tires for 4kq 
>Re: 
>
>----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>From: "Duff, Ian" <iduff@charter.com>
>Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 09:09:29 -0400
>Subject: RE: Time vs Mileage for Part Replacement for '91 Coupe Quattro
>
>I would be tempted to change them after 2 years accumulating 10K miles.
>I would also change the brake fluid after 2 years, regardless of
>mileage.
>
>Ian Duff, 1990 Coupe Quattro 20v, Red/Black
>
>Home: New Bedford, MA, USA
>Work: Charter Systems, Inc., Waltham, MA, USA
>
>>----------
>>From: 	Christopher G. Gharibo, M.D.[SMTP:gharic01@mchip00.med.nyu.edu]
>>Sent: 	Sunday, 28 July, 1996 12:13 PM
>>To: 	Quattro Mailing List
>>Subject: 	Time vs Mileage for Part Replacement for '91 Coupe Quattro
>>
>>I was wondering if some tune-up parts truly need to be changed on a
>>time
>>interval, rather than pure mileage.  		
>>
>>I would assume engine oil (7500 miles/6 months) certainly needs to be
>>changed based on mileage/time interval, however, does the same apply to
>>the
>>air filter, fuel filter or spark plugs which are recommended to be
>>changed
>>every 2 years or 30,000 miles.
>>
>>Doesnt mileage factor into the replacement of an air filter, fuel
>>filter or
>>a spark plug to a much greater extent than time?				
>>
>>If an air filter, fuel filter or a set of spark plugs have been in a
>>'91
>>Coupe Quattro for two years that has only accummulated about 10k miles
>>during that time, do they really need to be changed or can any one of
>>these
>>be left in the car until the 30,000 mile mark?
>>
>>Thanks.
>>
>>Chris
>>
>>
>>
>
>------------------------------
>
>From: "Andersen, Bo" <AnderseB@edc.ge.com>
>Date: Mon, 29 Jul 96 09:21:00 EDT
>Subject: [none]
>
>SOS Turbo Boost problem.
>
>On My 1985 5000 Turbo I have started getting knocking sensor warning
>light 
>indication at which point the engine computer opens the wastegate to
>protect 
>the motor and turbo boost goes to zero. The is no indication that the
>engine 
>is actually knocking. I have replaced the sensor without result. The
>problem 
>seems to start at exactly 3000 rpm.
>
>Any help appreaciated!   Thanks   Bo Andersen, Connecticut 
>Bo.Andersen@edc.ge.com
>
>------------------------------
>
>From: ghaney@ix.netcom.com (Gerry Haney)
>Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 06:19:24 -0700
>Subject: Oil Pressure Idiot Light
>
>HELP!  Yesterday afternoon while driving in Oakland, CA my oil pressure
>
>idiot light came on.  BTW this is an '84 GT Coupe (Audi type).  I 
>stopped and checked the oil and it was topped off.  Unable to find 
>anyplace to get any help, I decided to do the dumb thing and drive the 
>car until some symptom other than the light appeared.  Well the good 
>part is that I was able to drop my passengers off in SF and then drive 
>to my home in San Jose!  Probably a total of 75 miles.  The bad part is
>
>that I still have no idea what went wrong.  I changed the oil and 
>filter when I returned home, hoping that something was plugged up, but 
>that did not make any difference.  Any serious suggestions as to what 
>to look for?
>
>Gerry Haney
>'83 TQC
>'85 GT Cpe
>
>------------------------------
>
>From: "Duff, Ian" <iduff@charter.com>
>Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 09:13:47 -0400
>Subject: RE: URGENT -- need help
>
>Sounds like the clutch system, either master or slave cylinder.
>
>Ian Duff, 1990 Coupe Quattro 20v, Red/Black
>
>Home: New Bedford, MA, USA
>Work: Charter Systems, Inc., Waltham, MA, USA
>
>>----------
>>From: 	Dan Simoes[SMTP:dans@ans.net]
>>Sent: 	Sunday, 28 July, 1996 4:57 PM
>>To: 	quattro@coimbra.ans.net
>>Subject: 	URGENT -- need help
>>
>>So much for the fairy tale.
>>I came to a stop and clutched in, but the pedal
>>didn't come back up.  It had done this once before but
>>I was able to pull the pedal up and thought "weird".
>>Also, I noticed that 5th was notchier than before and
>>made a mental note to change the fluids asap.
>>So I remembered that my mechanic said that the vacuum
>>pump on the new engine had not been working at first,
>>so I swapped it out.  Nothing.  Then I found a small
>>vacuum leak and fixed that - nothing.
>>Under the car I see some fluid seeping, thinner than
>>oil perhaps, could be tranny fluid.  The gearbox works
>>fine, I can shift and feel the gears engage but the 
>>motion does not reach the axles if you know what I mean.
>>It's as if the clutch is in "off" and is stuck there.
>>
>>What are the possible culprits here?  I figure odds are
>>slim that he forgot a couple of tranny bolts and that the
>>fluid leaked all out, but I guess it's possible.
>>The brake fluid is topped off and the brakes work fine
>>as far as I can tell.
>>
>>To make matters worse he's on vacation as of early this AM
>>and won't be back for a week.  Thanks for any help
>>you can provide.  I'll check email later this afternoon.
>>
>>| Dan |
>>
>>
>
>------------------------------
>
>From: Alan Cordeiro <cordeiro@avlna.com>
>Date: Mon, 29 Jul 96 09:39:50 EDT
>Subject: Fairy tale...
>
>> I came to a stop and clutched in, but the pedal
>> didn't come back up.  It had done this once before but
>> I was able to pull the pedal up and thought "weird".
>> Also, I noticed that 5th was notchier than before and
>> made a mental note to change the fluids asap.
>> So I remembered that my mechanic said that the vacuum
>> pump on the new engine had not been working at first,
>> so I swapped it out.  Nothing.  Then I found a small
>> vacuum leak and fixed that - nothing.
>> Under the car I see some fluid seeping, thinner than
>> oil perhaps, could be tranny fluid.  The gearbox works
>> fine, I can shift and feel the gears engage but the 
>> motion does not reach the axles if you know what I mean.
>> It's as if the clutch is in "off" and is stuck there.
> 
>> What are the possible culprits here?  I figure odds are
>> slim that he forgot a couple of tranny bolts and that the
>> fluid leaked all out, but I guess it's possible.
>> The brake fluid is topped off and the brakes work fine
>> as far as I can tell.
>
>This sounds suspiciously like the clutch master cylinder.
>Still don't know where the leak is from. Perhaps the slave
>cylinder is leaking too. Perhaps the effect of the slave
>leaking is the same as the MC washers going south. Are you
>loosing fluid from the brake cylinder reservior ? the clutch
>and brakes share a common reservior on the 5k, I not sure
>if its the same on the 4k.
>
>Alan
>
>
>------------------------------
>
>From: treilley_at_BANKMARK@conseco.com (treilley)
>Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 09:39:15 -0500
>Subject: Re: URGENT -- need help
>
>     Sounds like a faulty clutch slave.  The fluid is probably hydro
>fluid.
>     
>     Tim NJ 90CQ, 77Spitfire
>
>______________________________ Reply Separator
>_________________________________
>Subject: URGENT -- need help
>Author:  Dan Simoes <dans@ans.net> at Internet
>Date:    7/28/96 4:57 PM
>
>
>So much for the fairy tale.
>I came to a stop and clutched in, but the pedal
>didn't come back up.  It had done this once before but 
>I was able to pull the pedal up and thought "weird". 
>Also, I noticed that 5th was notchier than before and 
>made a mental note to change the fluids asap.
>So I remembered that my mechanic said that the vacuum 
>pump on the new engine had not been working at first, 
>so I swapped it out.  Nothing.  Then I found a small 
>vacuum leak and fixed that - nothing.
>Under the car I see some fluid seeping, thinner than 
>oil perhaps, could be tranny fluid.  The gearbox works 
>fine, I can shift and feel the gears engage but the 
>motion does not reach the axles if you know what I mean. 
>It's as if the clutch is in "off" and is stuck there.
>     
>What are the possible culprits here?  I figure odds are 
>slim that he forgot a couple of tranny bolts and that the 
>fluid leaked all out, but I guess it's possible.
>The brake fluid is topped off and the brakes work fine 
>as far as I can tell.
>     
>To make matters worse he's on vacation as of early this AM 
>and won't be back for a week.  Thanks for any help
>you can provide.  I'll check email later this afternoon.
>     
>| Dan |
>     
>
>------------------------------
>
>From: dan_masi@MENTORG.COM (Dan Masi)
>Date: Mon, 29 Jul 96 09:49:18 EDT
>Subject: Re: A4Q Gas eruption
>
>On Jul 27,  6:57pm, AudiQtroCp@aol.com wrote:
>> Subject: Re: A4Q Gas eruption
>>      Due to the shape of the fuel tank in the  A 4, there is an
>> internal pump that will transfer fuel from one side of the tank
>> to the other.
>
>You're kidding, right?  I mean, I know Audi likes to get a bit
>overly cute with its engineering, but, well... tell me you're
>kidding.
>
>Even so, if such a thing is present, I can't imagine it being
>the cause of the aforementioned problem, as such a pump would
>certainly be wired such that it's off when the ignition is.
>No?
>
>Dan Masi
>'96 A4Q
>
>
>
>------------------------------
>
>From: garyjh@bernstein.com (Gary Harris)
>Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 09:48:57 -0400 (EDT)
>Subject: 5KS Front End Problems - HELP!!! - 2nd Attempt
>
>The front end of my '88 5KS has been transmitting some strange
>sensations
>lately.  If I drive along at a slow speed (< 15 mph), the steering
>wheel
>will steer to the right.  Not smoothly, though, but in
>pulsations...maybe an
>inch at a time (in other words, the steering wheel actualy turns to the
>right).  As I increase speed (and hold the wheel straight), the
>pulsation
>frequency increases and eventually becomes a mild but very nocticeable
>vibration (@ > 60 mph) that's transmitted throughout the front end.
>
>There is also a kind of moaning sound that comes from the front driver
>side
>between speeds of 40 - 50 mph and then again between 60 - 70 mph.
>
>Will all this be an expensive fix?
>
>About 3 months ago I had a set of Boge struts installed and all 4
>wheels
>aligned.  Could this be the result of an improper/incomplete job?
>
>TIA!!!!
>
>
>Gary - NYC
>
>
>------------------------------
>
>From: treilley_at_BANKMARK@conseco.com (treilley)
>Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 10:15:39 -0500
>Subject: Antenna FM/CB
>
>     I would like to install a CB in my Audi.  However, I don't want a
>big 
>     ugly whip antenna on my car.  Does anyone know of a CB antenna
>that is 
>     hidden?  Or is there a converter to allow the Fuba antenna to work
>as 
>     a CB antenna?  
>     
>     This is basically for car-to-car communications.  A cell phone is 
>     really not an option.  I drive in an area where if you leave it
>on, 
>     someone steals your freq and makes $10,000 worth of calls to the 
>     Dominican Republic!  I already own 2 CBs from my racing days and 
>     figure it is a good cheap solution.
>     
>     TIA
>     
>     Tim NJ 90CQ, 77Spitfire
>
>------------------------------
>
>From: mallick@orion.crd.ge.com (John Mallick)
>Date: Mon, 29 Jul 96 10:15:07 EDT
>Subject: Re: Low boost and 91 200Q timing belt
>
>Mike Miller wrote....
>
>Well, I finally got my crankcase breather hose from Linda and got it 
>installed. Not too bad a job, but not real easy to get the rear hose
>plugged 
>back in. Bad news is - it made absolutely no difference in my turbo
>boost. I 
>am still at 1.4 bar max. All hoses look good. I can pull the dipstick
>out and 
>open the oil fill cap and the engine just continues its smooth idle.
>Anyone 
>got any more ideas.??
>
>....
>
>It sounds like you still have a vacuum leak.  To check mine for leaks,
>I took the intake hose off of the air filter box, stuck my mouth into
>it and blew into the hose to pressurize the intake system.  You should
>not hear any leaking air or feel low resistance.  If you do, there's a
>leak.  Not the most sanitary thing to do, but it works.  
>
>I also had a max boost of 1.4 until I fixed that hose which runs to
>the bypass valve.  It runs behind the heat shield near the turbo and
>looked like it got incinerated.
>
>Good hunting!
>
>John Mallick
>'91 200q
>
>------------------------------
>
>From: treilley_at_BANKMARK@conseco.com (treilley)
>Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 10:22:54 -0500
>Subject: Re: Oil Pressure Idiot Light
>
>     If the car is not making any horrid noises by now it is probably a
>bad 
>     sending unit or the lead to it is grounding out somewhere.
>     
>     Tim NJ 90CQ, 77Spitfire
>
>______________________________ Reply Separator
>_________________________________
>Subject: Oil Pressure Idiot Light
>Author:  ghaney@ix.netcom.com (Gerry Haney) at Internet
>Date:    7/29/96 6:19 AM
>
>
>HELP!  Yesterday afternoon while driving in Oakland, CA my oil pressure
>
>idiot light came on.  BTW this is an '84 GT Coupe (Audi type).  I 
>stopped and checked the oil and it was topped off.  Unable to find 
>anyplace to get any help, I decided to do the dumb thing and drive the 
>car until some symptom other than the light appeared.  Well the good 
>part is that I was able to drop my passengers off in SF and then drive 
>to my home in San Jose!  Probably a total of 75 miles.  The bad part is
>
>that I still have no idea what went wrong.  I changed the oil and 
>filter when I returned home, hoping that something was plugged up, but 
>that did not make any difference.  Any serious suggestions as to what 
>to look for?
>     
>Gerry Haney
>'83 TQC
>'85 GT Cpe
>
>------------------------------
>
>From: erict@cta.com (Eric Thorstenson)
>Date: Mon, 29 Jul 96 10:23:33 EDT
>Subject: Noisy New Hydraulic Pump
>
>Hi all. Got a question regarding a new hydraulic pump I installed
>a few days ago. It's noisy - not a bad bearing kind of noise like
>the old one, but just sort of a loud pumping type noise, if that
>makes any sense. What I find interesting is that the noise is only
>present when the pump is not under load. For instance, when I turn
>the wheel with the car stopped and the engine at idle, the pump is
>perfectly quiet while I'm actually turning the wheel, but resumes
>making noise once I stop.
>
>Installation instructions that came with the pump indicate that you
>should use only the stock hydraulic lines, because one of them has
>a restrictor in it, without which the pump will be noisy. Bentley
>also confirms this, and says to check the restictor as part of the
>pump installation procedure. OK, so I'm using the stock lines and
>checked the restrictor, which looked fine to me. So the questions
>are:
> - anyone know what differentiates a "good" restrictor from a "bad"
>   one? Bentley basically just says to check that it's there.
> - could a failed bomb (which I believe I have) cause the pump to
>   be noisy, even if the hose and restrictor are OK?
> - is this perhaps a clear (but new to me) indicator of a bogus
>   pump? I'd hate to thing a rebuild ought to be bad, but I've had
>   wierder things happen...
>
>Thoughts anyone??
>
>Thanks a bunch,
>Eric T.     '86 5kS
>erict@ra.cta.com
>
>------------------------------
>
>From: Dan Simoes <dans@ans.net>
>Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 10:30:10 -0400 (EDT)
>Subject: Re: Antenna FM/CB
>
>>      I would like to install a CB in my Audi.  However, I don't want a big 
>>      ugly whip antenna on my car.  Does anyone know of a CB antenna
>>that is 
>>      hidden?  Or is there a converter to allow the Fuba antenna to work as 
>>      a CB antenna?  
>
>CB man here.  Can't go wrong with a K40 antenna.  The base and whip
>come apart with a twist of the wrist, and you can just install 
>the whip when you need it.  All that is left is a 1" high black 
>round mount on the trunk lid, hardly noticable.
>
>>      This is basically for car-to-car communications.  A cell phone is 
>>      really not an option.  I drive in an area where if you leave it on, 
>>      someone steals your freq and makes $10,000 worth of calls to the 
>>      Dominican Republic!  I already own 2 CBs from my racing days and 
>>      figure it is a good cheap solution.
>
>If all you want is car to car, you can even use the antenna inside the
>car, or there is a splitter that will let you use your radio antenna.
>But I would recommend the K40 as a good solution that will let you
>talk a lot further away than 1-2 car lengths!
>
>| Dan |
>
>------------------------------
>
>From: Dan Simoes <dans@ans.net>
>Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 10:32:47 -0400 (EDT)
>Subject: Spare parts for 4000sq
>
>As a byproduct of Frankenquattro(TM) I have a lot of spare stuff
>left over.  If anyone needs anything, let me know.  List includes
>but is not limited to:
>
>- - complete head off 84 (Carl's old head) with newish lifters and the
>  84 cam.  Ready to bolt on.
>
>- - Couple of distributors, might not be working though
>
>- - 2 vacuum pumps, I might keep at least one as a spare
>
>- - Spare a/c compressor, I might keep this though
>
>If there is anything you need, drop me a line, I've probably
>got it!
>
>| Dan |
>- -- 
>Dan Simoes			          dans@ans.net
>ANS 				http://coimbra.ans.net/dans.html
>100 Clearbrook Road  			(914) 789-5378 (voice)
>Elmsford, NY 10523			(914) 789-5310 (fax)
>
>------------------------------
>
>From: treilley_at_BANKMARK@conseco.com (treilley)
>Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 10:39:46 -0500
>Subject: Re[2]: Antenna FM/CB
>
>     Thanks for the suggestion Dan but the problem is that I have a
>Coupe 
>     and there really is no way to route a cable to the exterior
>without 
>     drilling(Refuse to do) and I can't imagine where I would mount the
>
>     K40.  But I will use this on my fiances Saturn SL4.
>     
>     A few years ago I heard about a converter for an FM antenna that
>would 
>     pull in CB traffic.
>     
>     Tim NJ 90CQ, 77Spitfire
>
>______________________________ Reply Separator
>_________________________________
>Subject: Re: Antenna FM/CB
>Author:  Dan Simoes <dans@ans.net> at Internet
>Date:    7/29/96 10:30 AM
>
>
>>      I would like to install a CB in my Audi.  However, I don't want a big 
>>      ugly whip antenna on my car.  Does anyone know of a CB antenna
>>that is 
>>      hidden?  Or is there a converter to allow the Fuba antenna to work as 
>>      a CB antenna?  
>     
>CB man here.  Can't go wrong with a K40 antenna.  The base and whip 
>come apart with a twist of the wrist, and you can just install 
>the whip when you need it.  All that is left is a 1" high black 
>round mount on the trunk lid, hardly noticable.
>     
>>      This is basically for car-to-car communications.  A cell phone is 
>>      really not an option.  I drive in an area where if you leave it on, 
>>      someone steals your freq and makes $10,000 worth of calls to the 
>>      Dominican Republic!  I already own 2 CBs from my racing days and 
>>      figure it is a good cheap solution.
>     
>If all you want is car to car, you can even use the antenna inside the 
>car, or there is a splitter that will let you use your radio antenna. 
>But I would recommend the K40 as a good solution that will let you 
>talk a lot further away than 1-2 car lengths!
>     
>| Dan |
>
>------------------------------
>
>From: jackr@internet.kronos.com
>Date: Mon, 29 Jul 96 10:48:35 EST
>Subject: Re: Tires for 4kq 
>
>>Lst winter was my first with a Quattro (1986-4000cs-quattro), and it was 
>...well differnt!  I bought all new 
>>P-600 m/s tires for and they are great in the dry, sand, rain.  But kinda 
>sucked in the snow... just drifted 
>>along, it helped if I switched the center dif on (number 1-mode) waht would 
>happen is the rear always seemed 
>>to have more traction, kinda a like a RWD?  When the center dif was
>>locked in 
>it helps quite a bit but the 
>>dealer I bought it from siad it wasn't good to that dail....only under
>>stuck 
>conditions????  
>
>>My questions:
>
>>1)I live in Nw-Conn in the hills and waht is a GOOD tire for years round, I 
>can't afford to have two sep. sets 
>>of tires (space & $) so should I get ???????? brand/size(would like to
>>stick 
>with factory size 195/60-14 i 
>>think?)
>
>>2)What are the do's and don't on that selector switch Mode 1 and 2 and
>>when Can
>I use with killing my AWD??
>     
>     I assume that these correspond to center-lock, and both center and
>rear 
>     lock.  See below.
>
>>3)Waht is the torq split front vs rear and why was my car handleing
>>like RWD in
>the snow???  Since then I 
>tested it quite crudely --  In sand I just let her go (4000RPM 1st) and
>I had 
>two set of roaster tails..  And 
>had all four wheels off ground and both sets moved (only the pass side
>I 
>think???)  
>
>     My owners manual (84 4kq) said to run with the center diff on in
>slippey 
>     conditions such as snow.  There was no maximum speed mentioned for
>this. 
>     I always use my center differetial lock in the snow. The rear 
>     differential lock is to be used only if you are stuck.  Pay
>attention if 
>     you are pulling off a snowy road into a plowed parking lot, or
>from a 
>     snowy road onto a main road that is cleared.  I once couldn't turn
>the 
>     car in a cleared parking lot because I had too much traction and
>the 
>     diff locks won't turn off instantly.  (With the differential
>lock(s) on, 
>     you can only drive in a straight line without the tires slipping.)
>     
>     Torque split is 50/50, but without the differential locked, all
>power 
>     can and will be transfered to the wheel(s) with the least
>traction.  
>     Since you have power to the rear wheels, you can fishtail in a
>corner 
>     just like a RWD car by applying too much power.  (Once this
>happens, you 
>     may just be putting all your power to the rear wheels if your
>diffs are 
>     unlocked.)  With a little practice, you'll learn to 4-wheel drift,
>
>     instead of just fishtail.
>     
>     A word of warning.  AWD isn't magic.  It's just better than 2WD. 
>Don't 
>     go too fast - you can't stop any better.  It took me a couple of
>winters 
>     to realize this.  As wimpy as our little 4kq engines are, in snow
>it's 
>     like a 700HP race car, except in slow motion.  You can break
>traction in 
>     all 4 wheels by mashing the gas.  This is fun, if there are only
>soft 
>     snowbanks to crash into, and not fun if surrounded by cars or or
>other 
>     hard obstacles.
>     
>     Jack Rich
>     84 4000 Q
>     88 Corvette convertible
>     90 V8 Q
>
>
>------------------------------
>
>From: Martin Slotterback <zing@ivory.lm.com>
>Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 11:18:26 -0400
>Subject: Re: 
>
>Andersen, Bo wrote:
>> 
>> SOS Turbo Boost problem.
>> 
>> On My 1985 5000 Turbo I have started getting knocking sensor warning light
>> indication at which point the engine computer opens the wastegate to
>>protect
>> the motor and turbo boost goes to zero. The is no indication that the
>>engine
>> is actually knocking. I have replaced the sensor without result. The
>>problem
>> seems to start at exactly 3000 rpm.
>> 
>> Any help appreaciated!   Thanks   Bo Andersen, Connecticut
>>
>>Bo.Andersen@edc.ge.com=================================================
>>====================
>
>Hey, 
>
> Do you have a air temp sensor in the IC??? I have an 865ktq that the 
>wires to the sensor broke off and I got the same reading. Just at the 
>point of boost or abouts there it would show the engine knock light. 
>Resoldered the wires and it went away.     
>
>The sensor is on the pass. side next to the IC hose to the intake.
>  Good luck.!!!
>
>
>     Marty S.
>
>------------------------------
>
>End of quattro-digest V3 #789
>*****************************
>
>*
>*  To unsubscribe, mail to majordomo@coimbra.ans.net and in the body of
>*  your note, say:
>*  unsubscribe quattro-digest
>*  Questions, comments to quattro-owner@coimbra.ans.net
>