It's Alive!!!

[dlawson@ball.com (Dave Lawson)]

>From the update desk...

After getting the clutch bleeding tips from Steve B, Thompson S. and
Mr. PDQSHIP and using the pressure bleeder and my 6 year old son
operating the clutch pedal, I finally got all the air out of the clutch
system. Mucho thanks for the input. The trick which worked for me
was to lean the fluid reservior to the left and let the clutch
sub-reservior fill with fluid. It took about 20-30 seconds for the fluid
to find its way in.

Saturday was spent installing axle shafts, installing the air vent tubing
in the dash and getting the electrical system connected. I ran
numerous fused 30 power wires direct from the battery, ala RDHs
recommendations. One of these guys goes to the new 15 power
relay which is used to power the ECU and all the actuators and
sensors which the MC engine uses.

Sunday I hooked up the battery and verified I had 12 volts where I
expected. I lost 0.5 volts through the relay and ended up with 11.68
at all the necessary locations. I then got on the horn and rounded up
the friends who have put many hours into this beast, saying that
this would be the day.

Needed a coil wire, the 5kTQ wire is to short for the ur-q so we stole
one from my firiends 90 CQ. Torqued down the CV joint bolts and
torqued down the axle nuts, Added the oil, filled it with coolant,
connected the battery and we were ready. Turn the key, nothing.
Hmmm. Review what is needed, probe around with the
Sunpro 7678(or is that 7876?), got 30 power to the alt and starter.
Turns out the starter solenoid actuator signal wire had slipped back
into the harness cover and I missed hooking it up. With this wire
connected, the engine started turning over but slooooow. Pulled
a good battery from my GT and tried again. Better. Plugged in the
ECU and idle stabilizer relay. It now turns over and tries to catch but
still missing something. I crawl under and feel the fuel pump and it
is not vibrating. Ah-ha.

Review my implemented wiring update and it seems correct based upon
the factory wiring schematics. We start in doing continuity checks
and realize that something is afoot at the fuel pump relay. Ben Howell
shows up and can describe what must have seemed like pure
confusion,  3 aerospace engineers debugging the OEM wiring
harness of an 83 ur-q. A sure fire way to mental insanity. We trace out
the harness until we find the 87 power to the Fuel Pump is switching
w/o the relay in place and the wires to pins 85 and 86 seem
reversed. Realizing that a larger electrical job lies ahead to
straighten this mess out, and wanting to get this engine turning, we
 use the brute force method and hard wire the fuel pump on.

The engine begins to come to life, tweeking the distributor and
then adjusting the CO we get the engine to idle. Success!!!! Out comes
the champagne. After a 17 month hiatus, the ur-q has a running
engine again. We let it idle for 20 minutes or so and it idled great.
There were no coolant or oil leaks. Radiator fan even came on.
There was a slight hesitation as the RPMs were increased.
After we shut it down, we checked the timing and found that I
had set the cam to what appears 1 tooth retarded. Guess what is
on my list this week.

There is light at the end of the tunnel and my wife now thinks
that big green pile of Audi crap in the garage will one day soon
move under it's own power. She can't wait( to park her car in
the garage again).

The sags continues...
 -
Dave Lawson  dlawson@ball.com
83 ur-q w/ running MC engine