Re: 88 5kCSTQW: Transmission R/R

[PDQSHIP@aol.com]

In a message dated 96-08-29 16:18:15 EDT, you write:

<< I learned years ago to replace the throw-out and pilot bearings when
 I do the swap, and I've got the CV drive flange seals on order.  I am 
 wondering if I should plan on replacing the clutch/pressure plate as a 
 matter of course, or simply make the call after I "mike" the clutch 
 plate.  The car has ~120K miles on it, so I'm thinking I probably should 
 do it.  
 
 The replacement tranny has been drained and I plan to use Redline MT-90 
 to refill it.  Since I have the thing sitting on the floor in the garage, 
 should I contemplate attempting to flush it out with a light oil?
>  no, the best thing, if you want to wash it, is to change again at 1000
miles after first change....
 The 
 "new" tranny has ~68K miles on it and from the exterior it looks fairly 
 clean.  
 
 Obviously I'll be doing the starter, and I get the feeling this project 
 is going to mushroom into something much larger ... exh man studs, eng 
 mounts, ... RS2 turbo ;)   >>>>  Hello?
 
 Any and all suggestions for things to check/replace gladly accepted.  
  >>
Just finished the 5th clutch job about 2 weeks ago Steve....  1)  Redline
should be 75W-90 if I remember correctly... 2 drains 1 fill hole both 17mm
hex (sears @8.00)....  The synthetics tend to wet the drain plugs and drip,
so use some teflon tape to seal (make sure to put it back on the threads one
turn)....  2)  Clutches and Pressure Plates as a rule should be replaced
together, at 120k be safe and just do it, new sachs stock unit is best...  3)
 Do the slave cyl if you haven't already it's cheap insurance and can be done
out of the car by disconnecting the hose at the MC side and pulling with
trans....  4) take a very close look at the diff lok mechanism vacuum mech,
now is the time to do that as well....  5)  The driveshaft does not need to
be removed, just take it off the back side of trans and move far to right
side and tie up to the studs for the crossover beam.....  6)  Cat can come
off with the trans if need be, but recommend it's removal....  7)  inspect
the cat mounting (to trans) bracket for rust bends etc, it can only be
replaced logically while trans is out....  8)  Replace the rear driveshaft
allen screw bolts with the vw app driveshaft 12 point bolts, they are
stronger and easier to remove and install.....  Be careful when pulling the
allens, they may need some heat to remove without stripping  9)  BEWARE OF
BENTLEY 1984-88 manual:  The clutch section (30.8) has a misprint, they have
listed a 55/74ft pound spec for the pressure plate, and 18ft/lb for the
flywheel IT IS EXACLY REVERSE, the flywheel should be the 55/74 and the PP @
18, and is correct in all other sections (13.14, 30.2)...   10)  Chances are
you will pop the shifter out of it's socket while RR, so pull the boot off
the shifter and ck  11) The flywheel needs only to be cleaned, don't cut...
 Call me if you need more info here....  12)  Replace the trans main shaft
seal too....  13)  There are 3 rubber dust/water gaskets on the
  driveshafts, 2 side and rear, you should replace, seen a few that haven't,
not good, it washes out the CV grease then dries it out....  14)  Remove the
subframe (duh, I guess) and (important) the trans to subframe "wings" on
remove, otherwise she won't come out, not a good time to find that out....
 15)  be careful on install that the hose bracket on the top of the trans
doesn't get betwixt the motor and the trans, it wants to go there, and you'll
know which one....  16)  remove the engine rpm sensors and bracket, remember
to install the white booted one on the bottom.....  17)  This is a real good
time to install 6 new sway bar bushings, no load when subframe out of
car.....  18)  Don't forget to buy:  7 bolts and nuts for the cat, 2 ball
joint bolts and nuts (nuts forward please),  2 driveshaft nuts, and those
pesky abs caps for the sensors.....  19)  trans is a bolt draw for the last
1.5-2.0 inches of travel, that pilot bearing is sealed and a direct hit
only....  20)  When removing you must MacGuyver a 10-222 tool (engine support
brace to fender), which is a 2X4 layed diagnally between the quarter panel
and the top support (just right of the cam gear cover) with a piece of audi
rope or (in my case) two loops of 10guage house wire, go below the front
engine support and over beam, this keeps the front from falling down when you
disconnect trans, trans install is impossible if you do not do this,
steve.... 21)  Subframe can be a one man job (as were all my clutch RR's),
right side ball joint, L side ball joint (hello, wings on), Left front sub,
right front sub (a few threads only to start), L rear, R rear, bolts thru
wings, THEN install driveshaft, then torque to spec and to order which is
(RR,LR,LF,RF), remove 10-222.....  Good luck.....

....  And as always, "Install reverse of removal" - Herr Bentley

HTH

Scott