Out to Stud

[PDQSHIP@aol.com]

In a message dated 96-09-14 14:07:11 EDT, Robert  writes:

>The absolute easiest way I have found is to full the head.  Just 
>disconnect the exhaust flange from the manifold.  Pull head with intake 
>and exhaust manifolds attached.  then remove the exhaust manifold and 
>have it resurfaced.  I have successfully managed to remove manifolds with 
>the head still on the block,  but the time it took was considerably more 
>than it takes me to r+r a head.
Then Igor writes
<< I have done the head job once (blew the gasket) and did just the mfld 3 
 times - my vote is: do it on the car.
 Unless you have some problems with the head also, then do the head and all 
 at once.
 
 Igor Kessel >>
PDQSHIP will add 

Igor:
You did an excellent post on stud R&R, no doubt....  And the biggest hint to
ITC (in the car repair) on the head is to TAKE YOUR TIME....  Now, with that
as a warning lets look at what happens with massive heat cycles...  Igor has
had good luck with his 89tq, the stock 5k (sans turbo) doesn't heat cycle as
much, and therefore would prolly be easily done his posted way...  BUT,
having done 4 myself of older vintage (pre 88), I can assure you that the
older the car gets the more you need to count on the fact that you may be
doing the whole head removal when force majeur happens....  And count on the
fact that if one snaps, at least 2 more will....  Definitely do the
penetration oil a couple of times before you do the job, every day for a week
prior is prolly where to start....  

Be advised that once the intake and exh manifolds are removed, the head
removal is less than an hour away....  And I would propose that Roberts
method of removal is prolly just as quick as Igors.....   remove the turbo
and WG downpipe(your biggest project I assure you), fuel injectors, pop the
timing belt, and the head comes right out....  Prolly faster than going Igors
route...  BUT, he is right that the expense goes up....  Head bolts, gaskets,
vital fluids etc....  What to do.....  Hmmmm....  Me, I'd give Igors method a
try, but be advised that haste and/or force majeur may turn this into the
Roberto method....  And, tho the method of replacement via Igor is right, but
the reason for the method has not changed....  The reason most folks remove
the manifold to begin with is that one of the studs has already popped, and
this would dictate that milling the manifold is in order, which would require
the removal of the WG + turbo anyhow, and at that point the head redo is
prolly not a bad idea...

Igor, you have mastered the technique, but when it bites one in the wallet
with the removal technique, you will realize how easily the head removal
really is....  The balance argument on the head thing may be valid, tho I
would propose that looking at the engineering audi did on the head vs the
block, they anticipated the head being worked on at least once, and the block
never....  Take your time folks, and be forwarned when you tackle this job
that it could open up pandoras box, the definition of force majeur/ Murphy's
Laws....  All new hardware is Igors' second big hint.....

My .02 at the current exchange

Scott