Rust, lug bolts, electrical gremlins, mufflers, hydraulics

["J.L. (John) Denis P.Eng, CQE, CQA" <jaeldee@sympatico.ca>]

Hi,
I'm a newbie, am not, but would like to be, a Quattro owner (with certain conditions 
attached - like money). I have several good reasons for wanting a Quattro: Living in 
snow country (Ottawa Canada), dry handling and I just like Audis. I'd like to comment, 
in a roundabout way, on subjects seemingly of interest.

Rust:
I DESPISE rust - it is my MORTAL ENEMY. Rust, stubborn lug bolts and electrical gremlins 
have a common cause. Tho Audis have galv. outer body panels of late, they still suffer 
the effects of corrosion in other ways. Don't have to live in the salt belt to suffer 
from corrosion. In my circle of car buddies we religiously use a product called "Rust 
Check". It's an oil that creeps into crevices, displaces and keeps moisture off and out 
of rustable places (BTW, I don't have any shares or interest in the maker or any 
distributor of Rust Check), also has chemical rust inhibitors to convert and loosen 
existing rust. IT WILL PREVENT ELECTRICAL PROBS LIKE BAD GROUNDS that subscribers often 
mention. IT WILL MAKE REPAIRS MUCH EASIER - avoid snapping off fasteners. IT WILL MAKE 
EVERY PART OF YOUR CAR LAST LONGER - as it provides lubrication to many detail spots.

Lug bolts:
In the salt belt is it *death* to not oil or grease the lug bolts/nuts and tapered seats 
to prevent seizing. Have *never* had a problem with lug nuts slacking off - have known 
about warnings to leave them dry for many years already. The ramp angle of (fine) 
threads is such that, even with oil they cannot back off except in cases of extreme mid 
to high frequency shock/vibration. Because of pneumatic rubber tires (tyres) this should 
never happen. BUT, uniform torquing to the proper value is *absolutely required*. 
Personally, I don't like the never-seize type greases - originally intended for specific 
high temp situations.

Hydraulics:
Brake and clutch circuits. I have used silicone fluid and grease to successfully prevent 
rebuilds due to corrosion. This would apply in any climate - even Arizona. Must clean 
out with alcohol (Vodka or Gin?) and dry compressed air, every part of the circuits by 
disassembly or new replacement. The pedal may be slightly softer - so big deal!. I use 
the silicone grease on the atmosphere side of caliper pistons and cylinders and to 
protect the rubber bits.

Mufflers:
I hope subscribers don't consider this as spam, I believe that owners would want a 
reasonable alternative. I don't know what the situation is in the rest of the world, but 
Quattro exhaust parts are really pricey in Canada - $500Cdn for the center and $700Cdn 
for the rear muffler. The company I work with (STEBRO SYSTEMS LTD.) offers much better 
than OEM or Bosal, stainless steel replacements and sport mufflers for 80 and 90 
Quattros that are guaranteed to last forever, look better and improve performance. For 
anyone who's interested, the rear muffler is $378Cdn and the center is $235Cdn.

Any questions or comments would be much appreciated. I don't have a great knowledge of 
Audis but am a mechanical engineer and can potentially help with many questions while 
wanting to let owners know about STEBRO exhaust system products.

J.L. (John) Denis P.Eng  jaeldee@sympatico.ca
'74 Datsun Z
'88 Buick Century wagon
'89 Alfa 75 3.0
former Boss 302 Mustang, many Datsun 510's and other wrecks I'd rather not mention.