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Still Looks TOO simple...



Orin and Arun Rao both replied to my post on replacing the CV boots.

> > 1)  Put the vehicle on ramps to keep weight on the wheels;
> > 2)  Remove one bolt from outer end of each axle; this bolt appears to 
> > retain the splined outer end of the axle into the hub and wheel 
> > bearing.  (Replace bolt when re-installing...)

Arun sez to bring a big breaker bar and cheater pipe for this...

> > 3)  Remove the recessed hex-head bolts from the transmission end of 
> > the drive axle.
> 
Orin asks:  Are you sure this is hex, its usually 10mm tri-square.  
Arun sez ditto.  Got me, you're probably right.  Where do I find one? 
Rears & Sawbuck???  (aka: Craftsdood?)
> 
> > At that point, it appears each axle can be removed.  Replacing the 
> > boots appears to require sliding the CV joint off the splined end of 
> > the axle...and calls for a tool #3207.  Does anyone have advice on a 
> > substitute?  (Can one just pull the lock ring and carefully tap the 
> > inner part of the joint with a punch to work it off??)  Putting it 
> > back together appears to be trivial...provided one has a torque 
> > wrench which will pull 147 lbs/ft as per the spec for the main end 
> > bolt.
> > 
> > Is it REALLY that simple???  Surely the devious minds at Audi require 
> > more procedures in order to do it "the German way".  (?)
> 
Orin sez:  I hear it isn't easy to get the CV joint off... I'd just replace the 
> whole axle - www.axlenet.com - $120 or less apiece for rebuilt axles.
> Of course, it's more expensive...

Arun said he watched while a friendly blacksmith pounded vigorously 
on a splined CV joint to get it off...and back on.  

So it sounds like basically, I have the procedure right - and the trick is to 
get the CV joint off.  Any advice from others who have BTDT in regard 
to this procedure?  I got a hammer and I ain't 'fraid to use 
it........and punches are cheap.....
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