Outer CV Joint R/R procedure (rambling)

[kappa@travelin.com]

>Arun said he watched while a friendly blacksmith pounded vigorously 
>on a splined CV joint to get it off...and back on.  
>
>So it sounds like basically, I have the procedure right - and the trick is to 
>get the CV joint off.  Any advice from others who have BTDT in regard 
>to this procedure?  I got a hammer and I ain't 'fraid to use 
>it........and punches are cheap.....
>+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
>Al Powell                           Voice:  409/845-2807
>107 Reed McDonald Bldg.             Fax:    409/862-1202
>College Station, TX 77843           Email:  a-powell1@tamu.edu 
>W3 page - http://agcomwww.tamu.edu/agcom/satellit/alpage.htm
>
>Saunders' Slant: "If it's worth doing, it's worth hiring someone
> who knows how to do it."
>
>

I've watched this thread for a while, and thought I'd toss my few cents in on 
this subject.  I'll preface this by saying I've done quite a few CV jobs - on my 
own vehicles, as well as others - Audis, VWs and Toyotas (the worst).  I'll also 
add that I enjoy doing them, and that my mechanic\partner-in-crime 
not-so-secretly thinks I'm a looney for exactly that reason.

I appreciate the design on the Audi\VW CVs.  I find them straight foward to work 
with, and similar between various different vehicles.  So the meat of the matter 
is how to work with the outer CV joint.  Here's my recollections:

There are four parts to the outer joint: Inner race,  six balls (quiet Bob), 
cage, outer race.
There are two types of outer joints, those with circlips and those without (they 
use snap-rings instead).  To determine this, clean out some CV grease and 
examine the inner race.  A snap-ring type inner race will look exactly alike 
along its interior diameter.  The circlip types will have a large notch or gap 
in one of the six ball grooves of the inner race.  This is where the wings, if 
you will, of the circlip will be.

To remove the outer joint from the halfshaft, firmly clamp the halfshaft in a 
vice.  You will have to pound on the outer race/main body of the joint to 
seperate it from the halfshaft.  Preferred to is a hard plastic mallet, or one 
of a softer metal.  Using a punch here won't help you to much, though you could 
use a brass drift on the inner race instead.  To rules of etiquette: 1) Don't 
hit a working surface such as a ball groove, or the ball cage.  2) if you choose 
to hit the outer race/main body, keep a firm grasp on the hub splines keeping 
the joint straight in relation to the shaft.  Otherwise the force of your blows 
will be transmitted to the balls, cage, and races.  All in all, the least 
damaging is a brass drift on an inner race, but the most effective usually is a 
large hammer on the outer race/main body.

Now throw in the complication of a circlip.  You must spread the circlip open, 
and hold it this way while the joint is pounded off.  I usually run out of hand 
here.  Spread, align, and pound... all at once.  A tricky technique, but useful 
and effective once mastered.  Lots more fun with an assistant to hold/catch the 
joint when it finally leaps free.

If you want to check the condition of the joint, disassemble, clean and examine 
the balls, cage and races.  Look for wear marks, pitting, or cracks.  Excess 
amounts of damage, and you're better of replacing the joint.  I'm frequently 
accused of being anal for doing this step, but I like the piece of mind from a 
thorough cleaning and inspection.  And I get to do the chinese puzzle of putting 
the joint back together again.  Those crafty designers were nice enough to allow 
it to be reassembled two different ways.  One works, the other seizes the joint 
up solid. When finished, rebuild, regrease, reboot, and reinstall.

If you just want to replace a boot: remove the joint, clean out as much of the 
old grease as possible, regrease, replace on shaft, regrease and reboot.

I tend to replace the circlips/snap-rings while I'm in there as well.
Last tip: if you don't have a CV Boot crimp tool, go to your local hardware 
store and get one of those nail head, end cutter things.  They won't cut the 
band until you exert enough force to get the metal band together in such a 
fashion that the cutters begins to exert force against each other with the band 
in the middle.  Sounds confusing, but the tool works.  Haven't cut one yet.

Hope this helps.  If you want tips on the chinese puzzle, feel free to ask me 
offline, but I learned everything from reading the Bentley and doing it.  If 
assembling your first joint, clean it well.  It's easier to compare to the 
Bentley if you're not all greasy.

-Stott Hare      '84 4Ksq  (black, and waiting for turbo...)
Biddeford, Maine

harest@allenbrook.iix.com
kappa@travelin.com