Re: Skeptilectic of Seizure

[PDQSHIP@aol.com]

In a message dated 96-10-12 00:32:12 EDT, you write:

<< 
 Here in New Hampshire USA, I used Never Seize (R) anti-seize compound 
 on Scirocco wheel bolts from 1980 through 1996 without any loosening.  
 If one uses M+S tires year round, and doesn't change the tires often, 
 it is very helpful in making the bolts removable by hand (i.e., by 
 torque wrench, not by fingers).  Otherwise, there is significant 
 corrosion, which can marginally damage the threads when the bolts are 
 removed.  Never did a bolt loosen after being torqued to 60 ft-lbs.  
 Previously I used it on US made Chevy products from 1967 'till 1980, 
 similarly torquing the lug nuts.  None of those loosened either.  At 
 the specified torque, it is true that the bolt will be tensioned 
 slightly greater than for dry, _clean_, smooth threads at the same 
 torque.  But considering that most cars are subject to pneumatic 
 aggression with likely much higher bolt tension, the hand torqued, 
 anti-seize coated bolts are probably better off.  I suggest that at 
 standard torques, and less anti-seize than thread clearance volume, 
 there is still metal-to-metal contact at the threads, as well as at 
 the bolt flange, and it is sufficient to preclude loosening.  YMMV.  
 

 
 ***             >>>>>> >>
What about the guy who used it for 15 years, did his third track event,
torqued and retorqued everything to spec, and the wheels all but fell off?
 Talked to him again at Grattan last weekend about this thread, he's a
believer in physics now....

>>>>> Checking the torque after a few days would be a wise safety 
 precaution.
>>>>>>>>>
....   And every time you run in the mountains, rush hour stop and go, or at
the track with hi heat cycles....  Bottom line is it is a bad idea, YMMV
could be a mild understatement when the wheel passes you at the wrong moment
(and trying to think of the right one).....  Recking the torque after a few
days doesn't do the trick, it is the heat cycle of the bolt, wheel, rotor and
hub that are the prollum, and can occur anytime....  Another BTDT experience
posted, that doesn't change the laws of physics, or the risk of YMMV....  It
is there, the fact you haven't experienced it doesn't exempt the risk.....
 So, after this thread we have determined that lots of folks think it is a
great idea for the corrosion prollum that occurs with the wheel
bolts/lugs.... I would propose that you have created another with the
addition of A.S., and one with more dire consequences.....   To speak for
it's safety is just wrong, and skirting the laws of physics for x many years
doesn't mean that the procedure should be recommended....   If the auto
racers/manufacturers thought that was a better way to avoid corrosion/thread
damage, me thinks it would be in your owners manual or your dealers tech
service bulletin, and every shop would do it, and a proper torque spec given
for its use....  That is NOT the case, and A.S. has been around longer than
most of you using it..... 

The 10.00 for the wire brushes to do the bolts and threads, beats a wheel
passing you when it shouldn't....  BTDT with A.S., take the luck argument and
spend the 10.00 

Scott