warranty & note on racing fuel

[Mike Arman <armanmik@n-jcenter.com>]

I understand there's an old callback / factory warranty involving the airbox
/ air sensor etc. on mid-to-late 80's series 5000 models.

The dealer in Orlando mentioned it, and when I asked further, they developed
a case of amnesia (amazing - it's free, and THEY pay labor! No wonder they
couldn't recall much about it.)

Anyone know what is involved? Parts changed? Results of doing this vs. not
doing this - is this worth the trouble? Can I call Audi-US for information
(would they deign to talk to someone with a TEN YEAR OLD car? Phone number?)

Is there a list of warranty callbacks available by model? I want to check
that everything required has been done (sort of like checking AD notes on an
airplane).

(Long) Side note to The Grubster on using 104 octane racing fuel:

        The octane rating is a way of stating how much anti-knock compound
(used to be tetra-ethyl lead) is in the gasoline. More "Octane" does NOT
give you more horsepower.

        Higher compression ratios give more horsepower - if you raise the
compression ratio from 6 to 1 up to 10 to 1, you will pick up 10 to 15% in
horsepower BUT - you will then have a pronounced tendency toward
pre-ignition and detonation - which destroys engines (resulting in no
horsepower at all).

        The tetra-ethyl lead supresses pre-ignition and detonation (which
are not the same thing), so you can run higher compression without
destroying the engine.

        THEREFORE: If you have a high compression engine, you NEED
anti-knock additives so it will live to make more HP, HOWEVER - adding
anti-knock additives to an unmodified engine WON'T make it go ANY faster. Sorry.

        You can buy TEL in bottles, called "octane booster" if you are
convinced that you MUST have it - but the lead ruins the catalytic
converters (coats the active surface) which is why (one of the reasons,
anyway) we now have only unleaded gas.

        Incidentally, super high compression ratios are really more trouble
than they're worth. They make for hard starting, short component life, and
an insatiable appetite for hard to find, expensive premium and racing fuel.
Work on easy breathing (chips, free flow air filter, headers) and more
displacement for lower costs, longer life, and more HP.

        (Same comments go for advancing the distributor timing for more HP -
you ARE GOING TO hole a piston doing this!! Believe me, if any auto factory
could get "Free" horsepower just by twisting the distributor, don't you
think the marketing department would be RIGHT THERE at the dyno, ready to
write the new sales brochure (Now!!! 300 more HP at the same price!!! Buy
one today!!!)

        Psychological effects of adding racing fuel to make your car go
faster: Attitude of "My car can take on the world!" Increased aggressiveness
in driving, reduced good judgement (lower fear level), and tendency to drag
race Viper V-10s and stray F-16s. More tickets, higher insurance premiums,
bent sheetmetal, possible hospital bills.

        Summary - don't. Lots of trouble, real and potential, for NO gain.

Happy (Slow) Audinaut,

Mike Arman