Re: quattro-digest V3 #1269

[raf40@oes.amdahl.com (Richard Funnell)]

I would definitely not use heat shrink.  Once shrunk, it isn't very
flexible at all, and would lead to a break (possibly at the end of the heat
shrink).

Electrical tape goop wouldn't hurt the wires at all, but it isn't a very
high-quality repair job.  Best bet would be to splice new lengths of wire
to replace those with cracked or bad insulation.  This is a pain, but it
would be permanent if done properly.  Solder is best, but properly spliced
connectors are fine too.  Use short lengths of heat shrink over the splice,
whichever kind is used, and try to place the splices inside the door and
inside the body rather than in the rubber boot.  Do replace the boot.

If you want to get fancy, you might consider using test probe wire which is
extremely flexible.  If you do, solder it as I'm not sure how well it would
work in a crimp.

>jpmahala@juno.com (John P Mahala) asks:
>
>> Upon opening the driver's door I am horrified by the macabre scene in
>> front of me.  The rubber boot that protects all the wires running from
>> the car to the door is pulled back to expose wires.  These are no
>> ordinary wires though.  These wires are almost all cracked and peeling.
>> Little flecks of copper are glistening everywhere.  Some wires are
>> completely exposed and/or broken!  I had heard rumors that Audi cot cheap
>> with the quality of wire in some of their cars, but this is atrocious.  (
>> And she wonders why her windows don't work proper )
>
>The problem here is NOT the quality of the wire, but the absence of a
>protective rubber boot through which all the wires should run!!  If
>the boot deteriorates, the wires can rub against metal surfaces.
>When you fix the wires, replace the boot, too!
>
>OK - here are some thoughts.  My suggestion is NOT going to be easy,
>so I welcome others comments.....
>
>1)  Don't depend on electrical or friction tape.  It might serve as
>an emergency mesaure, but it may leave goop on the wires, and it will
>definitely not last.
>
>My idea involves a kind of tubing called "heat-shrink", which is
>available at electronics parts stores in different sizes.  This stuff
>looks just like the insulation on wires, and is just as tough, but
>it's just a tube.   When HEATED to the proper temperature, it shrinks
>to about 50% of its former diameter.  It is commonly used
>in electronics to cover soldered joints and prevent shorting to
>adjacent wires or metal areas.  Heat is properly provided by a VERY
>hot air gun, but can also be applied with a match.  (I have seen
>propane torches used, but it's eacy to get too much heat and melt the
>insulation....)
>
>Here's my idea - and it wouldn't be fun.
>
>The idea would be to pull the door panel and see if you can get at
>all the wires where they pass from the door to the body.  If so, the
>goal is to free each wire, slide some heat-shrink over it, heat the
>tubing, then re-connect each wire.  This would provide a durable,
>permanent insulation over the exposed area on each wire.
>
>The BAD part - to free up the wires, you'd have to clip each one
>short of the connector (to window switch, etc...) in order to be able
>to slide the heat-shrink on. After completing the heat-shrink
>process, you'd have to re-connect each wire.  I'd probably use
>butt-splices for this, as they crimp on quickly.  Solder and more
>heat-shrink is cleaner and more permanent.
>
>Anyone have better advice for this gent???
>
>
>
>+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
>Al Powell                        Voice:  409/845-2807
>107 Reed McDonald Bldg.          Fax:    409/862-1202
>College Station, TX 77843
>Http://agcomwww.tamu.edu/agcom/satellit/alpage.htm
>
>Saunders' Slant: "If it's worth doing, it's worth hiring someone
> who knows how to do it."

Richard Funnell,
San Jose, California
'83 urQ
'87 560 SL