Re: quattro-digest V3 #1269

[marriott@Summa4.COM]

> The BAD part - to free up the wires, you'd have to clip each one 
> short of the connector (to window switch, etc...) in order to be able 
> to slide the heat-shrink on. After completing the heat-shrink 
> process, you'd have to re-connect each wire.  I'd probably use 
> butt-splices for this, as they crimp on quickly.  Solder and more 
> heat-shrink is cleaner and more permanent.
> 
> Anyone have better advice for this gent???
> 
> 
> 
> +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
> Al Powell                        Voice:  409/845-2807

i do,

the problem here is that the copper alloy that makes up the conductor has 
work hardened. the dislocation density has increased such that a void has 
initiated, which will . . . er, sorry ;-)

bottom line:  the flexibility of the copper is kaput. repairing/hiding the 
insulation breaks won't help the poor condutivity of a broken wire. this 
item needs replacing to prevent another failure of one kind of another in 
the near future.

i wouldn't get one from a yard, because it's probably just as ill, or a new 
one, cuz it's $$$ and unneeded. this is a pretty standard failure item, and 
easy to fix. you have to remove it anyway to "replace" it, so there's no 
extra labor required for fixing it. remove the harness, count the number of 
conductors, and determine how much of the wire you want to replace (for 
insurance, you might replace every conductor in the hinge area now, 
windows, mirrors, speakers, etc.). buy a proper-sized (ie guage, same as 
largest wire you're replacing) roll of automotive-grade (has more, thinner 
wires, and better insulation so it's more flexible and lasts longer in 
bending) wire (one color is fine) in the matching guage, and even an $8 
soldering iron (if you need one). also get some shrink wrap of the correct 
size.

clipping one conductor at a time from the old harness, solder in a new 
piece after stripping 1/4" from each end. if you haven't soldered before, i 
can give you some tips if necessary. but don't forget to slip the shrink 
wrap (both pieces ;-) on first. if you stagger the joints a little it makes 
the physical size of the splices more managable, ie
    <=   1"   =>

                splice
----------------======------------------------wire 1
---======-------------------------------------wire 2
--------======--------------------------------etc.
------------------------======----------------
-----------------------------------======-----

all joints should be inside the door or under the dash, as the solder and 
shrink wrap stiffen the wire ==> bad for flexing

total time ~ 2hrs:  30 mins removal, 1 hr r&r, 30 mins install

like al said, a new boot, or a decent one from a yard, is in order.

worked fine on my wife's 4000s and a bud's 5000cst, on my 4kcsq when 
necessary...

hth,
james



James Marriott, BSME
Manchester, NH, USA
marriott@Summa4.COM
'64 Falcon Sprint Convertible--balanced & blueprinted V-8
    GOES great. Stopping?
'86 4000S        the better half's commuter
'87 4000CSQ      H-stock auto-x und daily driver, Kanc-1 veteran