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Re: '82 tqc (a wee bit long)
For 14K US you should get an excellent condition car. The body work and
interior should be original and perfect. But, more importantly mechanically
it should be sound. I honestly believe Audi's and in my experience ur-qs do
better the more often they're driven. Leave the car for any length of time
and something will go wrong, just to spite you!
Get a mechanic you trust to look the car over, Look at the tie rods, wheel
bearings, control arm bushings, sub-frame bushings, engine mounts
(particularly the one near the exhaust manifold), tansmission mounts, rear
diff mounts. If none of these look like they've been replaced recently it's
a good bargaining tool. You should probably get an alignment and there's no
point doing that if there are worn bushings. Check the tyres does it have
new tyres, this is not always a selling feature they could have been
changed to hide uneven wear on the old set BTDT.
Pull the dip stick out and the engine should stutter but not die, remove
the oil cap and it should stall. If not, it probably has a vaccuum leak, or
several. Check the diff locks and electric windows work. Make sure the
diffs actually lock and that the bulbs haven't just been wired to come on
BTDT. Try and get to the car before it's been warmed up, when it's first
started, listen carefully for clicking sounds could be either exhaust studs
broken or worn valve seats.
Look carefully at the fuse box, located under the dash board on the drivers
side. The pre '83 cars have a reputation for very poor wiring. Look for
melted fuse holders relays missing etc. Check the correct warning lights
come on before you start it, battery, temp and oil. Examine the engine bay
closely particularly the vaccuum lines fuel lines and electric cables not
to mention the AC plumbing.
I've heard of other other ur-qs with blown head gaskets. According to Frank
Sprongl it's only a matter of time - that makes me sleep well at night!
If it has euro lights and bumpers, that would be worth about 2K to me
anyway. Pricing an ur-q is really tough in North America there are so many
factors involved and no two cars are alike. My advice, for what it's worth,
is buy the best car you can buy for your money. i.e. your better to buy a
car at 12K which needs no work done than a car at 5K that needs 4K of work
done, because that's 4K today and who knows how much next week.....
By the way I ignored all of the above when I bought my '83 ur-q and in
hindsight I'd do it again, no question!
Good Luck, Mike
p.s. Check it has a catalytic converter, remember it's an early euro car.