Tips on replacing struts/shocks on 5k

[ATTDCS!TMBWPO1!sjagernaut@dcstm1.attmail.com (Stephen Jagernauth)]

Ernest Wong wrote:

>When you did the fronts with the tool, was the silly strut bearing
>accessible or does the strut assembly need to be dropped to get to the
>strut bearing.

I bought new strut bearings but could not install them w/o compressing the 
springs.  You need to unload the top of the spring which pushes against a 
plate.  The strut bearing is sandwiched between the plate and the body. 
    The safest way to replace it is to remove the struts off the car but 
it's a lot more work.
I was able to replace the bump stops and rubber boots.    I'll tackle the 
strut bearings later.  Need more tools - axle puller, tierod/balljoint 
separator etc.   Some tips follow:
Fronts:
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1. When you buy new inserts, save the plastic band with which they're 
shipped in a compressed state.  You need to compress the very stiff insert 
to get it under the hood.  I rigged up string since I had already cut the 
plastic band off.  You then snip the string/plastic band from below while 
your trusty helper or SO is lowering the insert from above.
2. Mark the camber nuts/top-plate before removing to approximate your 
original settings so you can get the alignment close.  I used White-Out.
3.Boots are removed/installed from the top.   You need someone with small 
hands to push the boot up through the springs to fit the top while you hold 
it from the top.  There is a lip on the upper plate which holds the rubber 
boot in place.  I used a tie-wrap on the bottom of the boot to hold it in 
place.
4.  You may need to pry the plate down against the insert with a prybar to 
reinstall.  I found a convenient lip on the hood hinge where I chocked a 
piece of wood and pried against the wood.   Helper/SO handy.
On the rears:
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1.  After you jack the car up (on jackstands) and remove the wheel, support 
the rear axle with a large block of wood.  I have 2 6"x8" blocks which 
worked well.  If not, after removing the shock, the rear axle is no longer 
supported and will drop and possibly damage a brake line.   This will also 
keep the lower shock bolt aligned to re-install the shock.
2.  Use a small floor jack under the shock body to support its weight when 
you remove the top nuts and big lower bolt.   Air tools helped speed this up 
quite a bit since that lower bolt is quite long.
3. When you insert the new shock, make sure the lower mount hole is aligned 
with the center top hole or else it'll never line up.  Point this out to the 
shop if you use a machine shop to compress the springs.
4.  Using the small floor jack to support the weight of the shock, I loosely 
tightened the top nuts and jacked the shock up slowly without raising the 
whole axle to align the large bottom bolt.

Hope this helps someone out there.  The 2069 tool to get the strut cap off 
was definitely worth it in time savings vs doing it out of the car.

Regards,

Steve Jagernauth sjagernauth@attmail.com
too many cars