Steve Gronback wrote:
>
> I purchased a Fram oil filter for my '91 20v 200 Quattro Turbo. It
> fits, is cheap, and is the correct Fram part #. The dealer, however, says
> don't use anything but the Audi filter (at 10 times the price).
> Is this good advice? Is the Audi filter gold plated. Does it matter?
>
> Lynne Gronback
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Flip the Fram upside down and look into the hole. It has no anti
drainback valve. In other words, when you shut the car off, the oil
drains down in the oil pan. When then you restart the car the oil takes
a few extra seconds to fill the passages in the empty oil sys (almost
like when you start the car up after you've just changed the oil).
During these few seconds you are running the engine almost dry. It is
known that every starting of the car equals to approx 100km of running
it wear wise, (or according to a different source an engine wears out
90% due to that first morning start up, and only 10% as a result of
driving).
The only el-cheapo Audi/vw filter with the anti drainback valve is made
by Lee.
You are lucky to own an awesome '91 200 20. With a turbo Audi
I_would_not even look at anything short of an OEM oil filter, made
specifically for a turbo(!) engine (with no letter after the part
number). Sure, the filters with a "G" (for a non-turbo L5) or an "A"
(for a 2.8 V6) will fit. But although they have the correct thread, they
are calibrated to a different working pressure.
An oil change costs me $10 for the OEM filter and $15 for 5 cans of
fully syntetic Castrol Syntec 5-W-50 oil every 5kmi. That is in the
ballpark of what various "Jiffy Screw You" charge. Hardly an expence
given the 300+kmi of my chipped turbo engine life expectancy.
Igor Kessel
'89 200TQ
18psi of boost (TAP)