Re: Can you give me some guidance?

[shields@tembel.org (Michael Shields)]

[cc'ing the list on this]

> Michael,   Since you are a veteran of a timing belt change on a 4KQ. 
> could you please give me the steps necessary.  I have a good mechanics
> tool set a few jack stands and a hydraulic jack...but that is about it. 
>  I can borrow a wrench and socket for the crank pulley but I don't know
> how to get the nut off.

This has come up before.  There are basically three ways people are
happy with:

1. Fill the #1 cylinder with nylon rope to lock it at TDC.

2. Fit a socket and breaker bar to a pipe, lay it against the ground,
and use the starter to break it loose.

3. Buy the 2084 tool to lock the crankshaft in place while you use a
breaker bar and pipe by hand.  It's $65 from Zelenda.  This is what I did.

Here's the approximate procedure.  This is to the best of my recollection
but YOU ARE RESPONSIBLE FOR YOUR CAR so buy the Bentley and be sure you
have an idea what you're doing... you can purchase both the Bentley and
the 2084 and still come out ahead of having a professional do the job,
so there's no reason to skimp.

1. Chock wheels, trans in neutral.  (Wheels stay on the ground.)

2. Remove the grille and (I think) bumper so you have better access.
The crankshaft pulley lives close to the frame and these parts come
off easily.

3. Remove the three accessory belts.

4. Remove the timing belt covers.

5. Turn the engine to TDC, as indicated by the marks on the flywheel
and the back of the camshaft sprocket.  If you're using the 2084 that
makes it easy because it will only fit when you're near TDC anyway.

6. Break loose the crankshaft bolt.  It's a monster.

7. Remove the crankshaft pulley.

8. Replace the water pump.  You bought a new water pump, right?
Don't tighten it down yet; it's the tensioner so you'll need to adjust it.

9. If you're thinking about doing lifters now is the time... also get
a neoprene valve cover gasket and a camshaft oil seal.  It's hardly
any extra effort except you'll have to reset the ignition timing.

10. Also think about replacing the idler pulley.

11. Realign both camshaft and crankshaft to TDC.  TDC on the camshaft
is indicated by a notch which is supposed to be level with the top of
the head.  It's sometimes a degree or two off so if you're Jeff Goggin
you will find TDC by measuring the actual cam lobes instead.  I didn't
have the tools for this handy.

12. Reinstall the pulley with the new belt.  You're supposed to
use Loctite 573 on the bolt but no one knows where to find it, so I
substituted regular 242.  Use your 2084 (or rope) and get it *tight*,
like 500-600 Nm.  Spec is 350 Nm but that's *with* a torque-multiplying
extension.

13. Tension the belt by adjusting the water pump.  You should be able
to twist it 90 degrees between cam sprocket and water pump.

14. Put back all the covers, making sure not to leave out any bolts,
because some of them also hold on the oil pump, meaning that your car
will leak badly if you leave it out, not that I would do that of course.

15. Doublecheck that everything that's supposed to be at TDC is at TDC
and you haven't left anything loose and you remembered to replace the
antifreeze.

16. Start it up.

As usual I would call Jim at Blau for all the parts.

There is more advice in the archives.

> I was also thinking about doing a valve job
> since I have some compression readings that vary from 106 to 157.  Can
> you please give me some guidance...any guidance is appreciated.  Thank
> you,

I've not done any internal engine work -- it's a skill I'd like to have
but I ca'n't afford the downtime on my car.  I'm just a guy who likes
to take things apart.
-- 
Shields.