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quattro-digest Monday, 27 January 1997 Volume 04 : Number 164
*
* Welcome to the digest version of the quattro list.
* See the end of the digest for unsubscribe info.
* In this issue:
Re: Light research (silliness)
Re: Synthetic Oil & Stuff
5000 ac programmer solenoids
Audis For Sale
Re: Synthetic Oil & Stuff
A4 1.8T Avant
Source for '90 CQ front rotors????
Wanted: '91 200tq Wheels
Re: How to set idle on '87 5KCSTQ (Long)
Re: 86 CD Turbo with Auto
Re: 86 CD Turbo with Auto
Re: Synthetic Oil & Stuff
Re: quattro-digest V4 #160
Re: Synthetic Oil & Stuff
Re: Synthetic Oil & Stuff
RE:4Q bumper lights
RE: V8 quattro, 200 quattro, 90 quattro, quattro coupe
A4 v. Neon?
Audi 4000 CS Floor Mats for sale
What are these Tokiko struts for?
Re: Rear clunk refined
Chilton AUDI manuals available
RE: quattro-digest V4 #163
----------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Heather & Jeff <hjr@buffnet.net>
Date: Sun, 26 Jan 1997 20:20:11 -0800
Subject: Re: Light research (silliness)
> From: shields@tembel.org (Michael Shields)
> So what voltage are headlight bulbs designed to run at?
>
> All the replacement light bulbs I have ever seen say
> "12 Volts, XX Watts".
>
> Luis
>
The "12 volt" reference only refers to the general range of the system,
and is the only standard number you will find when talking about
charging systems. Most battery chemistries in use today output
approximately 12.6 volts when "fully charged, room temp, float voltage
removed". Alternator voltage must be higher than this to accept a
charge. Too low, no charge or slow charge. Too high, boiling of
electrolyte or worse. There is no standard, but many alternator
manufacturers (including Bosch, who make Audi alternators) set at 14.0
volts. ( I have seen from 13.5 to 14.5 used as set points.)
I do not know if there is a "pseudo-standard" among the light mfrs, but
I would guess they use 14.0 as a operating voltage (especially Bosch and
Hella, since Bosch sets their alts at 14.0)
Again, a few tenths of a volt makes a big difference in light life, but
a little difference in light brightness.
Jeff
'88 80q
------------------------------
From: Heather & Jeff <hjr@buffnet.net>
Date: Sun, 26 Jan 1997 20:43:52 -0800
Subject: Re: Synthetic Oil & Stuff
And I thought this thread was dead.....
Anyway, I just read an interesting article in Fleet Equipment magazine,
about life of oil and oil changing.
Fleets that run Class 8 diesel trucks (Big-ass trucks better known as
Semis) used to change their oil (many gallons) every 10-15K miles, and
used to expect to rebuild at 300K. Now most fleets are pushing 25K
between changes, and todays engines can usually go a million miles
before rebuild.
The article was about some fleets that are experimenting with
not_changing_their_oil_at_all!
They are using bypass filtration and oil analysis, plus changing the
bypass filter every 50K or so. The bypass filters filter particles down
to 1-3 micron or so (standard full flow filters only filter to 15-25
micron; 25.4 microns = .001 inch) The bypass filters also absorb
moisture, plus some models have additive pellets that slowly dissolve to
replenish lost additives.
The gist of the story goes, they analyze the oil when they change the
filters, and if the level of acids, metals, etc is low, they don't
change the oil. Many of the test fleet trucks have 500K+ miles with no
problems, with the original oil!
Now, how can I fit one of these bypass filters to my 80q......
Jeff
'88 80q
------------------------------
From: jjwjr@ix.netcom.com (JEREMY J. WALTERS JR.)
Date: Sun, 26 Jan 1997 17:44:16 -0800
Subject: 5000 ac programmer solenoids
Help!
Today I pulled out my AC programmer, did not find any oil-how much oil
is there usually? I tried pulling a vacuum from the manifold side with
a hand pump, and one valve held vacuum, the other 3 slowly leaked away,
at varying rates. Does anyone know where I an obtain replacement
valves, as i hate to pay for a whole rebuilt programmer, when all I
need to do is solder in new solenoid valves. Even if someone knows the
voltage of the coils, it would be helpful. Are the valves just on/off
switching manifold vacuum to each servo, or do they vent to
atmosphere-it appears they might.
Thanks - hopefully I'll have warm feet again!
Jeremy Walters
SAn Ramon, A
------------------------------
From: Mark Nelson <mnelson@brls.com>
Date: Sun, 26 Jan 1997 19:05:49 -0800
Subject: Audis For Sale
Saw this classified ad in Sunday's (1/26/97) Reno-Gazette Journal for
CPA motors:
2 - '96 A4's 5 speeds
2 - '96 A6 Quattro Wagons
2 - '96 A6 Quattros
2 - '95 S6 Turbo Quattros
3 - '93 100CS Quattro Wagons
2 - '91 V8 Quattros 5-speeds
2 - '91 Coupe Quattros
The number is (818) 885-5000
Enjoy!
Best Regards,
Mark Nelson
'87 5KTQ (For Sale)
'91 CQ (building for SCCA pro-rally)
------------------------------
From: Jim Griffin <JGriff@pobox.com>
Date: Sun, 26 Jan 1997 22:04:15 -0500
Subject: Re: Synthetic Oil & Stuff
At 08:43 PM 01/26/97 -0800, you wrote:
>Now, how can I fit one of these bypass filters to my 80q......
Amsoil has had them for a while now... go to http://www.amsoil.com for more
info.
I have a link to their site off my web page as well. (URL is in my sig.)
Jim Griffin
JGriff@pobox.com
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/4475
Maryland, USA
"Perception is often stronger than reality!"
'92 100S
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~OOOO~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
------------------------------
From: gregsj@mail.imm.com
Date: Sun, 26 Jan 1997 19:27:27 -0800 (PST)
Subject: A4 1.8T Avant
Fellow Audians: calling all sources.... I know A4 Avants are
supposedly comming in the fall, any word re whether these will include
1.8T's. TIA for your help. Greg
------------------------------
From: Sdbigelow@aol.com
Date: Sun, 26 Jan 1997 22:55:17 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Source for '90 CQ front rotors????
Sunday, You sez...
>$84 per rotor (NO WAY).
>Does anyone know a good (CHEAP) source for Audi rotors, and better yet,
>anyone know where I could find some drilled or slotted rotors for the Couope
>Q??
Try Best Price (they advertise in EC)
1 800 636 0854
They quoted me $48CAN regular, $118CAN drilled for my 5k.
They're in Ottawa
Steve Bigelow
Ottawa
84 5k
------------------------------
From: Mike DePolo <depolom@badger.jsc.vsc.edu>
Date: Sun, 26 Jan 1997 23:05:37 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Wanted: '91 200tq Wheels
I'm looking for a set of '91 200tq 20v wheels. If anyone has a set at a
reasonable price please mail me. I found a set already for $200, but
they are painted pearlesent. I really don't feel like stripping and
painting them so if you can help me I'd appreciate it.
------------------------------
From: Dave Head <dhead@sundial.sundial.net>
Date: Sun, 26 Jan 1997 22:58:28 -0500
Subject: Re: How to set idle on '87 5KCSTQ (Long)
At 03:16 PM 1/26/97 +0000, you wrote:
>OK, I got the Bentley manual on my car, and I'm STILL uncertain
>what that screw, needle valve adjustment or whatever it is on the
>front of the intake manifold is called! (Idle speed adjuster?)
>
>I do know it greatly affects the idle speed of the car when I turn
>it. I've done this with the green terminal wire on the coil
>disconnected.
>I also occasionally get idle speed variation when at a stop light
>from 1000 to 3000 rpm, other times idle climbs to 3K rpm and stays
>there. Doesn't happen all the time, though. (Idle stabilization
>valve?)
>
Yer throttle switch is going south. If yer an electrician type, pop the
switch apart and replace the microswitch. If yer not, pay 60.00 fer a new
one. Then buy a cheapo dwell meter, hook it to the test connection for the
freq valve and set yer fuel mixture (need a long 3 mm alloen wrench too).
Make sure all yer possible air leaks are fixed. THEN you can set the idle...
********************************AUDI FAN***********************************
EMCM(SW) Dave Head
87 5KCStq 185K miles and counting... 1.8 bar boost - Whee!
Maitland, Florida
******************************************************************************
------------------------------
From: Dave Head <dhead@sundial.sundial.net>
Date: Sun, 26 Jan 1997 22:58:32 -0500
Subject: Re: 86 CD Turbo with Auto
At 05:54 AM 1/26/97 -0600, you wrote:
. There is leak down the front part of the engine
>which the owner says is the power steering pump. There appears to be some
>wet stuff farther back as well just right of the engine when you are facing
>the car (slightly towards the drivers side).
Probly hyd pump or hose leak in front, rack leak in back - try squeezing the
boot around the rack.
Is this tranny or steering
>rack? The owner has apparently had it serviced regularly but has lived with
>the leak due to high cost of quote to fix. The tranny oil is a light tan
>with just a hint of reddish color. Is this OK?
Should be pinkish red. Smell it - if it smells like grear oil, run away
screaming.
> The owner has been adding Castrol power steering fluid to resovoir. Is
this the right stuff for the
>Audi system?
Nope - Pentosin or Lucas mineral oil. PS fluid will ruin every seal in the
system.
Rack - about 350.00 rebuilt
Pressure accumulator - about 260.00
New pump - about 175.00 rebuilt
Hoses - about 170.00 total
brake thingy behind the master cylinder - 700.00 new, I believe about 250.00
rebuilt.
Depends on what you call expensive... :-)
********************************AUDI FAN***********************************
EMCM(SW) Dave Head
87 5KCStq 185K miles and counting... 1.8 bar boost - Whee!
Maitland, Florida
******************************************************************************
------------------------------
From: "Meron" <phwomp@cosmoslink.net>
Date: Sun, 26 Jan 1997 20:51:14 -0800
Subject: Re: 86 CD Turbo with Auto
>The owner has been adding
>Castrol power steering fluid to resovoir.
Not quite, if he is adding the ATF type fluid to the power steering
reservoir you have some problems, the correct fluid is MINERAL OIL. The
owner has some big trouble: new pump, new "bomb" (hydraulic pressure
accumulator), I am not sure if you can correct it by flushing the system
with mineral oil.
Avi Meron
86 5Kcstq
I am not always the devil's advocate, but never one to miss an
opportunity.....
------------------------------
From: "Meron" <phwomp@cosmoslink.net>
Date: Sun, 26 Jan 1997 20:36:02 -0800
Subject: Re: Synthetic Oil & Stuff
>they analyze the oil when they change the
>filters, and if the level of acids, metals, etc is low, they don't
>change the oil. Many of the test fleet trucks have 500K+ miles with no
>problems, with the original oil!
The above is commonly done with large industrial engines, the bypass filter
is big, and the main filter is the size of 55gallon drum. The only time the
oil is changed (on some of the applications) is during an engine rebuild.
Note also that most of the time the oil is none synthetic.
Avi Meron
86 5Kcstq
I am not always the devil's advocate, but never one to miss an
opportunity...
Avi
------------------------------
From: "Meron" <phwomp@cosmoslink.net>
Date: Sun, 26 Jan 1997 21:08:49 -0800
Subject: Re: quattro-digest V4 #160
>They told me that they had found a
>bearing (sorry, don't happen to remember the part number) that would
>work as a replacement.
If you don't get the part number from anybody else, let me know and I will
get it for you, it is a BMW part number. Not long ago somebody described
the whole repair procedure.
Avi Meron
86 5Kcstq
I am not always the devil's advocate, but not one to miss an
opportunity......
------------------------------
From: "Meron" <phwomp@cosmoslink.net>
Date: Sun, 26 Jan 1997 21:01:24 -0800
Subject: Re: Synthetic Oil & Stuff
>Now, how can I fit one of these bypass filters to my 80q......
Change your oil regularly using a good filter and good oil (forget the
synthetic stuff), every 3 to 5K miles and you will be fine, all the rest is
"bull", you do not have an industrial engine that runs 24 HR a day at a
high load, neither do you have a truck fleet that travel regularly between
east coast and west coast (or maybe you do......).
Avi Meron
86 5Kcstq
I am not always the devil advocate, but never one to miss an
opportunity....
------------------------------
From: "Psychotic Don't-you-dare-tickle-me Elmo" <honge@creighton.edu>
Date: Sun, 26 Jan 1997 23:16:43 -0600 (CST)
Subject: Re: Synthetic Oil & Stuff
>>they analyze the oil when they change the filters, and if the level of
>>acids, metals, etc is low, they don't change the oil. Many of the test
>>fleet trucks have 500K+ miles with no problems, with the original oil!
>The above is commonly done with large industrial engines, the bypass filter
>is big, and the main filter is the size of 55gallon drum. The only time the
>oil is changed (on some of the applications) is during an engine rebuild.
Hmm. I was gonna say that. I recall they have those because changing oil
by the xxx-mile/xxx-month rule wasn't practical cost nor time wise --
hence they got that "beer can" next to their engine bay on the semis.
Besides, changing that much oil is environmentally unsoundy.
The little filter can on passenger cars simply can't do that job. I
suppose you can dedicate your car's trunk space...
- ------------- clip here with virtual scissors --------------
************************************************************
Send any interesting roadkills to honge@creighton.edu!
Keyboard stuck error. Press F1 to continue.
Fax (402) 593-8975
Just say "Your lights are on" to DRLs
************************************************************
------------------------------
From: Linus Toy <linust@mindspring.com>
Date: Sun, 26 Jan 1997 22:14:57 -0800
Subject: RE:4Q bumper lights
At 04:01 PM 1/24/97 -0500, MSV96@aol.com wrote:
>Years ago when I owned my first 4kcsq (87) when it was new there were fog
>(driving ?) lights available from the dealer parts dept. (on sale cheap
>too-shoulda woulda coulda...) that fit where these reflectors are located.
>This was a kit complete with factory switch and wiring. Perhaps Linda could
>shed some light (pun intended) on this? HTH...
I had these...they fit below the reflectors, in the lower grill--you had to
cut openings into the lower grill. They were made by SEV Marchal, small
lights about an inch, inch-&-a-half high, five or six inches wide. no big
deal--don't add much, if anything, to the stock headlights.
The reflectors simply cover up the US-spec bumper mounting bolts, so there's
no easy way to replace them with lights.
- --Linus
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------
* linus toy email: linust@mindspring.com *
* mercer island, wa *
* *
* The obscure we eventually see, *
* the completely obvious, it seems, takes longer. *
* - Edward R. Murrow *
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------
------------------------------
From: Linus Toy <linust@mindspring.com>
Date: Sun, 26 Jan 1997 22:15:09 -0800
Subject: RE: V8 quattro, 200 quattro, 90 quattro, quattro coupe
At 10:56 AM 1/24/97 -0800, Peter Henriksen wrote:
>of reasons: they're a good conversation piece and I've heard from
>another lister with 275hp in his non-UFO 91 200q that it's now
>underbraked. I don't think that will happen with the very large swept
that would be me! to be fair, my latest experiences (i.e. since IA stage 3)
are with Porterfield street pads which I don't feel have the same "bite" or
stopping power of the Pagid RS4-2 pads i used to have. don't know how the
Porterfield track pads might compare. also keep in mind that folks such as
Eric, Scott, and a few others on the list have equally high HP cars with the
conventional brakes--albeit with other brake pads.
2 pennies.
- --linus
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------
* linus toy email: linust@mindspring.com *
* mercer island, wa *
* *
* The obscure we eventually see, *
* the completely obvious, it seems, takes longer. *
* - Edward R. Murrow *
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------
------------------------------
From: "Gene R. Rankin" <grankin@itis.com>
Date: Sun, 26 Jan 1997 23:57:24 -0600
Subject: A4 v. Neon?
On 26 Jan 97 at 14:17, Jeff sez:
> Do you think you could get an A4 with 300 hp for $23k? No such
> thing as a free lunch.
Nope. An A4 is a bargain as it stands. Just underpowered. I'd like
more, thank you, and am willing to pay for it. Audi, however, is not
willing to bring it over.
And to the smart-*sses who advised me to get a Neon & another list, letr
me remind you of the lost skill of reading ALL the words. I said "<gag>
Neon" now, didn't I? (Sheesh! True Believers!)
Gene R. Rankin / Madison, WI / USA
------------------------------
From: John Karasaki <johkar@teleport.com>
Date: Sun, 26 Jan 1997 22:24:11 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Audi 4000 CS Floor Mats for sale
For Sale: Black front floor mats for the 4000 CS or 4000 CS Quattro. Brand
new with "4000 CS" embroidered on it. These are the thick "Lloyd" style
mats that are $80 a pair typically. Audi is no longer allowing the Audi
name or logo to appear on floor mats made by companies other than the factory.
$30 for the pair plus shipping.
------------------------------
From: John Karasaki <johkar@teleport.com>
Date: Sun, 26 Jan 1997 22:25:07 -0800 (PST)
Subject: What are these Tokiko struts for?
I ran into a friend of a friend this weekend at the Portland Race Central
swap meet. He was selling Tokiko front struts that he bought to autocross.
He had installed them in a custom housing, so did not know what application
they're for.
He're are the part numbers: RZ 1100 and RZ 3112 (1 pair of each).
They were very, very stiff! Anyone know what these will fit?
------------------------------
From: paul.heneghan@bbc.co.uk (Paul Heneghan)
Date: Mon, 27 Jan 1997 09:55:17 GMT
Subject: Re: Rear clunk refined
From: "J. Smethers" <smethers@fast.net>
>I had posted earlier today regarding a rear clunk on my 4KCSQ. I drove
>around tonight with a friend in the back seat. It's definitely coming from
>the rear. I am get the same sound by accelerating hard and then quickly
>backing off the throttle. Something is shifting back there and my friend
>confirmed he could feel vibration on the left side. That is the side the
>sound is coming from.
Rear diff mounting rubber bushes. There are three, one either side and one
(pressed in) at the rear. The ones at the side disintegrate after fairly
few miles (<100k). They are really easy to replace. One hour should do it.
Paul
paul.heneghan@bbc.co.uk
1984 Audi 80 quattro
1989 Audi 100 Avant
------------------------------
From: rpp <75313.1445@compuserve.com>
Date: 27 Jan 97 07:48:56 EST
Subject: Chilton AUDI manuals available
HI everyone,
I happened across some old Chilton guides that maybe someone is interested in.
I found the following:
Audi 70-73 (think it includes 90ls,special,others), Audi 4000-5000 78-81, Audi
Fox 73-75.
I figger these are prolly out of print, too. If anyone needs any of these or if
you want one just for fun, I can go get them. They were 6 or 7 bucks each.
These are not used books but appear to have been on a shelf for along time.
E-mail privately if you want me to go pick'em up.
Randy....
------------------------------
From: "Dan Cooke Cooke@cs.lmco.com" <COOKE@taurus.cs.lmco.com>
Date: Mon, 27 Jan 1997 8:11:26 -0500 (EST)
Subject: RE: quattro-digest V4 #163
>Well I took my rotors in to be turned and they are below spec (DAMN). The
>parts guy quoted me $84 per rotor (NO WAY).
>
>Does anyone know a good (CHEAP) source for Audi rotors, and better yet,
>anyone know where I could find some drilled or slotted rotors for the Couope
>Q??
>
Try Dynamic Brake (no affiliation, just liked their price). I replaced
both front rotors on my 4kq; can't remember the price but it was a lot better
than anything else I could find.
607-785-9957 (upstate NY)
800-371-2725 (if in NY)
Dan Cooke
cooke@cs.lmco.com
'90 90Q20V
'86 4KCSQ
------------------------------
End of quattro-digest V4 #164
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