Re: possible purchase of 88Q/90 (kinda long)

[Steve Manning <stephenm@ix.netcom.com>]

At 10:10 AM 1/28/97 -0500, you wrote:
>I'm considering the possibility of buying a 1988 quattro90....has 
>approximately 90k miles.....any thoughts, suggestions, recommendations, 
>advice?
>Thanks!
>Mark 
>mtrank@mail.co.albemarle.va.us
>

Mark - ok, I'll give this a shot (based on owning a zillion of them):

o Generally the cars are pretty bulletproof, although check your build date
- the quality on the early ones (built in July/August 1987) can be somewhat
spotty.  Also, some of the options (power seats, the additional gauge
package) were not available in the first few months.
o Some good news - NO BOMB!  Thankfully, these cars had vacuum assist on the
brakes, so there is no bomb and the hydraulic pump powers only the steering.
Those pumps generally last 100-150k (they are considerably smaller and less
stressed than in the big cars) and usually it's just a bearing that goes.
Listen for it to start squeaking.
o Bad news - the car has a vacuum pump to provide additional vacuum to the
brakes.  They have a tendency to start clicking at various stages - some
people basically disconnect them by taking out the rod, others replace.  I
won't get into the do you need it/don't you battle (I strongly advise
keeping it), but listen for tapping noise.
o Other under-hood squeaking could be belts (is the lower belly pan in place
to keep road crap out of the engine compartment) or sometimes timing belt
idler pulley.
o Look for usual Audi pentosin drips from steering rack.  Check if high
pressure hose from pump to rack is dry.
o Drivetrain has few problems - Audi had the 10v pretty much figured out by
then ('88 90q's had the 130hp NG engine).  Gearbox will last forever if not
abused.  I'd changed the gearbox/diff fluid as soon as I got it (ask me for
recommendations).
o Don't get the car thinking you can add horsepower easily - you can't
without spending a lot of money.  There are a few little things to do, but
the car is not and will never be fast without considerable dollars (although
I'm still looking at nitrous).  Spend your upgrade money instead on big
brakes and upgraded wheels.  You need new strut inserts at 90k.
o See if you can get records for the car.  If not, see if a local dealer has
records (you'll have to decode them, but..).  They can be worth their weight
in gold.
o Do the usual checks for bodywork from a collision - they are expensive to
fix, and people seem to get them done cheap sometimes and pieces are
missing, or it isn't aligned right, or they don't replace the rustproofing,
or...just be careful here.  Rust should not be a problem - if you see it
anywhere, I'd stay far away.
o Clutch should be good for at least 150k; if it is slipping or needs
replacement at your mileage it probably indicates abuse.  Clutches last a
LONG time on that car.
o You won't find too much equipment variation; the 90q's came with power
everything, a/c, sunroof, etc.  Usual option is winter package (heated
seats, ski sack (these cars also don't have driver armrest).
o Check to see if the rear diff lock works.  90% of the time on the 90's it
is a vacuum problem, or the switch has gone bad because someone spilled
coffee on it (it is located in a PRIME spilling spot).
o Check the heater fan for function - the switches often stop working on
certain positions (usually starting with I) and have to be replaced (you can
rebuild somewhat but they don't seem to last too long afterwards).
o As usual for Audis, check the heated seats (if you have them) for
function.  Switches go bad occasionally, so don't presume you have to tear
into the seat to fix (try swapping switches between passenger/driver to see
if one starts to work).
o Look at the color of the brake fluid in the reservoir (should be nice and
clean), and whether there is sediment in the bottom (indicating infrequent
changes). This will shorten the life of the clutch hydraulics more than
anything else (I've never had a 90q that didn't need the master and/or slave
replaced somewhere within 100k).
o Check mufflers (mid & rear) for rust - pipes are stainless from factory,
but mid-muffler seems to rust most (just replace w/straight pipe).
o Check for consistent idle - problems here could be vacuum-related, ISV, etc.
o A/C system will chill you out of the car when working right (unlike the
5k) - if it doesn't, there's a problem somewhere.  Since it's cold, at least
check to see if it turns on (although it won't somewhere below 40f).
o Headlights suck.
o Make sure the timing belt is changed every 60k.  If you can't get the last
change documented, change it.  Cheap insurance.  Replace water pump at same
time.

Sorry to ramble so long...let me know if you want any more info....HTH.....SLM

Steve Manning:	stephenm@ix.netcom.com (Metro D.C. area, USA)
.....Mainly Mopars, two '88 Audi 90Q's (they're both back!!!), other stuff