Al's timing belt replacement epic.

[e6941tb@gnn.com]

Al, I have done this a number of times, and although there are indeed
more pleasant things one can do with his Audi (like installing a Hi-Fi,
or any electronic equipment for that matter), I found it to be a pretty
routine procedure. Let me comment on several §§, maybe you'll find some
of it usefull.

First off, let me ask you a really silly question: did you remove the
bumper (2 bolts=5min), the grill (1 screw =1min) and the intercooler (1
bolt and 2 hose clamps = 5min) before starting the job? If you do this,
you can work elbow-deep in the engine, while comfortably sitting in
front of it.

> It took me more than an hour
> just to get the damn belts loose!  Lord knows whether I will ever get
> them back on.

You will, don't worry. 
1. ALT: only the front top pivot 19mm bolt is needed to be loose (1/2
turn will do). And, of course, the 13mm that secures that 22mm star
adjuster.
2. A/C: only the bottom front 17mm bolt, that rides in the slot. You can
easily reach for the rear top 17mm pivot bolt, if you wish, but that's
not really necessary. And, of course, the 13mm that secures that 22mm
star adjuster.
3. Loosen both 15mm bolts on the ends of the ridiculos cross member,
that ties the 1 and 2 together. This member indeed looks like some
ill-thought add-on.

> I had to cut the AC belt off, as the one on there was
> so short that the compressor was already bottomed on the oil
> pan...

Yes, they are pretty tight, and the whole ordeal is aggravated by the
need to drag it through 2 pulleys (A/C is a second one). I usually
insert a long flat screwdriver under the belt and turn the engine (a
27mm socket on the crank bolt) until the belt jumps off the pulley.
Don't forget to remove the spark plugs to ensure the easy engine
rotation, otherwise you'll be fighting the engine compression.

> and the toothed adjuster was thoroughly savaged.

I view them as consumables, they are about $3 at any VW dealer.

> 
> Second, the decision to hide the water pump (a high-mortality item,

<snip>

Yes, combining a water pump with a belt tensioner was Dumb with a
capitol D! With all due respect to Audi engineering.

> ...CUT THE DAMN
> cover plate in half, discarding the lower half entirely so that I
> could get at, and remove, the water pump!!

Right move, I do it all the time. Next time around you will be glad you
did it.

> Third, the idler for the timing belt is a light press-fit into a
> recess in the front of the engine, meaning that it either requires a
> special puller to remove it, or a lot of prying that is also
> guaranteed to ruin the bearings in the idler.  Fortunately, I bought a
> new one for this job.

I never had a problem with it. Hmmm...
> 
> Finally, one of the reasons I took this assembly apart early is that
> I'm dripping oil out of the timing belt cover.  I was looking
> forward to replacing the crankshaft seal to end this dripping.  Now I
> find that the damn seal is pressed into the front of the oil pump.
> It is totally inaccessible without removing the oil pump!!!

Audi uses a rather fancy and expensive screw-in tool for this operation
(Zelinda cat shows it).
> 
> Steadiric said they sometimes come out with a dental pick, but I
> tried this idea VERY carefully and looked at the replacement seal,
> and mine is going NOwhere. 

I tried it also - did not work. Had to remove the oil pump.

> I will live with the drip, as at this point,
> no force on earth will make me remove that oil pump.  If it ever
> leaks so badly that I can't live with it, it will be my mechanic who
> does it, or I'll sell the damn car.

Actually it's not that difficult.
1. Loosen 2 subframe bolts and lower subframe by about 10cm.
2. Remove oil pan (19 10mm bolts). Once you are at it, wash it well of
all that accumulated oil gunk. Naturally, install a new pan gasket.
3. Once you are still at it, remove the oil sump (2 10mm bolts) and wash
it well also.
4. Remove those several 10mm and 13mm bolts, that hold the oil pump on
the front of the engine. Note their positions, 'coz they are of
different length. Naturally, install a new oil pump-to-block gasket.
5. Remove the oil pump and disassemble it on the bench (3 phillips
screws hold the inside plate - a real b*tch to loosen, might need an
impact driver). Note the relative position of both gears and do not
reverse them!!
Once you are at it, clean the pump well and inspect the gears for wear
(Bentley).
6. Knock the old oil seal out.

Note: first mount the pump on engine, THEN drive a new seal in!
Lubricate it well.
I once did it the other way round. The pump with the seal mounted in it
was almost impossible to fish onto the crank shaft. I did it anyway,
assembled the engine, put oil and antifreeze in, started the car and, oh
horrors!, discovered a frigging stream of oil from the oil seal. I had
to do the whole thing over again, I was ready to torch the damn car! It 
turned out that when I fished the pump with the seal onto the
crankshaft, I accidently pulled the seal's leap outwards and the spring
had fallen off. Had to replace the seal one more time, only this time I
first mounted the pump on the block, THEN drove the seal in with a help
of a  cylindrical Al tool, that I had to machine for this job.

> 
> My best estimate is that another three to five hours will return this
> car to its former oil-dripping state, with a new idler, water pump
> and timing belt.

Al, don't do it, replace that seal now. Oil dripping on the (new) belt =
fast belt failure = big $$$$.

Ask, if you need any further assistance and/or part numbers.

Good luck!

Igor Kessel
'89 200TQ