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Re: quattro-digest V4 #347
Hello out there in Audi land,just a quick question about
sensors,does anybody know how to bypass the headlight
sensor on an 89 200tq? I've added a heavy-duty wire
harness and it only uses one of the stock headlight plugs.
so now every time I turn on my headlights, beeeeeep, on
comes the warning that one of my headlights is out, what
a pain in the butt, well thats all for now.
Dan H
1989 200tq 2.0barr..... wheeeeeeee!
----------
> From: owner-quattro-digest@coimbra.ans.net
> To: quattro-digest@coimbra.ans.net
> Subject: quattro-digest V4 #347
> Date: Tuesday, February 25, 1997 1:26 AM
>
>
> quattro-digest Tuesday, 25 February 1997 Volume 04 : Number
347
>
> *
> * Welcome to the digest version of the quattro list.
> * See the end of the digest for unsubscribe info.
> * In this issue:
> MultiMeters, Fluke and others
> dave's garage sale, part III
> Re: Ur q clutch job questions
> Re: Consumer Reports
> Synthetic oils and teflon additives
> Copy of: Synthetic oils and teflon additives
> Re: Brake Sensor warning bypass trick...
> Re: MultiMeters, Fluke and others
> Miles vs. $
> Re: MultiMeters, Fluke and others
> RE: Brake Sensor warning bypass trick...
> missing A4 headlight washer cover
> Re: 4000 hi-po cams
> Re: Small request
> Re: Windows to the soul...
> Re: Mobil 1(and vac. leak)
> Oil Testing
> Re: Tail-gating
> Re: Synthoil AGAIN?? very very long,,,,,,,,,
> Audi A4 1.8T DSP Automatic
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> From: scott.john.mockry@bangate1.TEK.COM
> Date: Mon, 24 Feb 97 17:28:29 PST
> Subject: MultiMeters, Fluke and others
>
> Hello gang,
>
> Someone asked.........
> > I'm looking at the 78 and the 88. Can't see much difference in
features.
> > Range/sensitivity are better/broader on the 88 as well as price ($200).
> Am
> > I missing something or is the 78 a "better" deal?
>
> >>Mark, to the best of my knowledge, Fluke does not have either a 78 of
an
> >>88 in their model range.
> >>The 70 series are: 70, 73, 75, 77, 79.
> >>The 80 series are: 83, 85, 87.
> SOME TEXT DELETED
> >>Igor Kessel
>
> Well, the 78 and the 88 are the AUTOMOTIVE versions of the 70 and
> 80 series DMM's that Fluke sells, they are only sold through their
> designated automotive distributors and they are not available
> through the electrical/electronic distributors listed previously. I have
a
> list of the authorized Fluke Automotive Distributors in the US. if
anyone
> needs to know.
>
> The more well known Fluke Automotive Distributors are
> Mac Tools, and the Matco tool trucks. The Fluke 78 sells
> for around $220-250 and has volts, ohms, continuity, current, dwell,
> frequency, duty cycle, RPM (with optional pickup) , and direct
> TEMPERATURE measurement capabilities. It accepts the standard
> K-type thermocouples for measuring temperature.
>
> The 88 has most of the features of the 78 but
> has better resolution (4 1/2 digits) for the Pulse Width and
> Frequency measurements, a little better accuracy,
> Lo-Ohms mode, backlit LCD screen, but it is a product that has
> been around for awhile and it does not measure dwell or
> temperature directly . It does come standard with the RPM
> pickup and a nice carrying case. It is a bit of an overkill for
> most home repair enthusiasts as it lists for over $400.
> In my opinion the 78 is a better deal than the 88. If you really need
> to buy a Fluke 80 series, look at the non-automotive model
> Fluke 87 which GM has recommended for use by their
> service people. There is also the Snap On DMM
> , the MT586 for around $380.
>
> Mac Tools also distributes the ET330 ($240) and the ET332 ($375-$400)
> model Automotive DMM's with a few more features that are sold by
> Tektronix which just happens to be the company that I work for.......
> these DMM's are part of the product portfolio that I manage.........
> We also sell standard Electrical/electronic models that compete
> with the Fluke 70 and 80 series......just a little marketing talk......
>
> Insert BIG Disclaimer here...........
>
> I have most of the competing DMM's in my office,
> if anyone needs further details on their features
> and/or operation or if anyone has any general
> DMM questions.
>
> The high end automotive DMM's listed above are typically only
> purchased by full time mechanics/technicians who use
> them on a daily basis and take advantage of their extra
> features along with the need for their rugged construction
> and reliability.
>
> Hope that helps
> Scott Mockry
> Product Marketing Manager
> Tektronix
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> From: "David G. Lawson" <71344.2441@compuserve.com>
> Date: 24 Feb 97 22:02:26 EST
> Subject: dave's garage sale, part III
>
> I forgot a few items in the last list...
>
> 4 yakima rain gutter mounts, no bars or locks, $50/offers
>
> kkk-k26 watercooled turbo from an early 89 200
> MC engine, about 3000 miles on a complete
> rebuild and balance, 7 degree clip on turbine
> wheel, 40k miles on turbo before rebuild, works
> great, pulls very strong(ask QSHIPQ),
> $550/offers
>
> - -
> dave lawson 71344.2441@compuserve.com
> boulder, co
> 83 ur-q, mc
> 86 gt
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> From: EICHSTEV@aol.com
> Date: Mon, 24 Feb 1997 22:05:17 -0500 (EST)
> Subject: Re: Ur q clutch job questions
>
> In a message dated 97-02-24 04:42:08 EST, Phil writes:
>
>
> > Answer: A failing throw-out bearing.
>
> >True, but from that point they can take a long time to actually _fail_.
>
> Not from what I have heard. Regardless, if you would have heard the
truly
> horrible sound it makes, you probably would have had the car flatbedded.
The
> thought of the bearing exploding on my commute is not very appealing, so
it
> will go "under the wrench" this weekend if possible.
>
> >> If there is anyone familiar with the time involved in doing a clutch
on a
> 4kq
> >> or ur q, please let me know. I'd like to do it this weekend so my
daily
> >> driver isn't out of commission too long. If only it could have waited
a
> >> month or so...
>
> > HAHAHAHAHA! The factory time is "10 to 12 hours" with all appropriate
> equipment.
>
> > One of the longest jobs on an ur-quattro.
>
> Bet I can do it in eight!
>
> Steve Eiche
> Now driving my wife's '96 Blazer, '79 Triumph Spitfire waiting in the
> wings...
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> From: STEADIRIC@aol.com
> Date: Mon, 24 Feb 1997 22:09:44 -0500 (EST)
> Subject: Re: Consumer Reports
>
> >You are dead wrong on that, They have a huge, dedicated, and well
equipped
> >test facility in Connecticut. The place is staffed by capable engineers,
> many
> >with OE experience. Their facility is the envy of any and all of the
> >"enthusiast" style car magazines. In fact it is bigger, better equipped
and
> >better staffed than the test facilities of quite a few import car brands
on
> >sale in the U.S.
>
> I dunno if I'd call the testers at CR "Capable engineers" Several of
> their tester came through a Skip Barber that I was teaching at... These
> folks (3 guys and a gal) were, ummmmm inept comes to mind. 2 of the four
> could not shift a manual gearbox.
>
> I would never trust these people to come up with a rational and well
> founded opinion. Especailly after the 4 days that I spent with their
> "Capable Engineers"
>
>
> Later!
>
>
> Eric Fletcher S.O.C.
> '87 5KCSTQIA2RSR2B
> St. Louis, MO
>
> STEADIRIC@aol.com
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> From: DENNIS JONES <deej_jones@compuserve.com>
> Date: Mon, 24 Feb 1997 22:12:38 -0500
> Subject: Synthetic oils and teflon additives
>
> Having a 1996 A6 Wagon and just acquired a 1992 V8 Quattro, I checked out
> the Internet for
> sources of info and found the quattro-digest. Also found recent messages
> on oil additives
> etcetera and thought my experience might help.
>
> Have used Tufoil with Castrol Syntec in the A6 since I got it, and just
> started using it in the V8. Why?
> Well, I also have a 1987 Mustang GT, automatic, that has now exceeded
> 310,000 miles of HARD
> driving, and the engine still checks out like new; the only thing we ever
> did to the engine was change
> the gaskets under the rocker covers (used the opportunity to put in 1.7
> roller rockers). This car has had
> synthetic oils in it since 50,000 miles, with Tufoil at every oil change
> (every 3,000 miles). The initial
> improvement in gas mileage was 5%, performance at least 5%. So
impressive
> that I replaced
> all lubricants with the synthetic equivalents (from Red Line Oils, though
I
> still use Syntec in the engine).
>
> The V8 now has Syntec 5W50 with Tufoil in the engine, Red Line synthetic
> ATF in the transmission and
> centre differential, and as soon as I can find where they are, the other
> two diffs will get Red Line
> syntheric 75W90 in them! No Teflon, of course, except for the engine!
>
> If this gives me 300,000 miles from the V8, I shall be delighted!
>
> Dennis Jones.
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> From: DENNIS JONES <deej_jones@compuserve.com>
> Date: Mon, 24 Feb 1997 22:20:31 -0500
> Subject: Copy of: Synthetic oils and teflon additives
>
> - ---------- Forwarded Message ----------
>
> From: DENNIS JONES, 104573,1166
> TO: quattro-digest, INTERNET:quattro@coimbra.ans.net
> DATE: 2/24/97 10:16 PM
>
> RE: Copy of: Synthetic oils and teflon additives
>
> Having a 1996 A6 Wagon and just acquired a 1992 V8 Quattro, I checked out
> the Internet for
> sources of info and found the quattro-digest. Also found recent messages
> on oil additives
> etcetera and thought my experience might help.
>
> Have used Tufoil with Castrol Syntec in the A6 since I got it, and just
> started using it in the V8. Why?
> Well, I also have a 1987 Mustang GT, automatic, that has now exceeded
> 310,000 miles of HARD
> driving, and the engine still checks out like new; the only thing we ever
> did to the engine was change
> the gaskets under the rocker covers (used the opportunity to put in 1.7
> roller rockers). This car has had
> synthetic oils in it since 50,000 miles, with Tufoil at every oil change
> (every 3,000 miles). The initial
> improvement in gas mileage was 5%, performance at least 5%. So
impressive
> that I replaced
> all lubricants with the synthetic equivalents (from Red Line Oils, though
I
> still use Syntec in the engine).
>
> The V8 now has Syntec 5W50 with Tufoil in the engine, Red Line synthetic
> ATF in the transmission and
> centre differential, and as soon as I can find where they are, the other
> two diffs will get Red Line
> syntheric 75W90 in them! No Teflon, of course, except for the engine!
>
> If this gives me 300,000 miles from the V8, I shall be delighted!
>
> Dennis Jones.
>
> ------------------------------
>
> From: Dave Head <dhead@sundial.sundial.net>
> Date: Sun, 23 Feb 1997 02:14:18 -0500
> Subject: Re: Brake Sensor warning bypass trick...
>
> At 05:03 PM 2/24/97 -0600, you wrote:
> >I have been poking around the brakes this afternoon, and no matter what
I
> >do, jumper wire or pin through the wires at the female connector, the
check
> >brake light stays on. So I think I need your help with that bypass you
> >mentioned in previous correspondence? It seems the sensor is shot or a
> >break some wear else.
>
> If you have jumpered both sensors at the same time and the light is still
> on, then the problem is upstream and a nightmare to find... Here is the
> Dave Head "We don't need no stinking idiot lights" trick:
>
> You have to remove the Auto-Check main control unit - to the center of
the
> car and above the glove box under the dash. Once out, there is a 35 pin
> connector to it. One end has a fork end. Counting from the other end
(latch
> end) - 1-18 on top, 19-35 on bottom. Bottom shound be smooth. Jumper from
> pin 21 (sensor) to pin 27 (ground - always brown). This will put the
light
> out. Good fix for all 85-88 5KS, 5Kt, 5Kq, 5Ktq. Bentley pages 96.28 and
> 96.29 refers.
>
> Book tells you to go through the console AC controller to get to it. I
found
> it much easier to access via the glove box removal method. This method
> simply inserts a signal that tells the Auto Check that the circuit is
> complete. Remember to check your brake pads often and put a note in the
> glovebox for any future owner...
>
> ********************************AUDI
FAN***********************************
> EMCM(SW) Dave Head
> 87 5KCStq 187K miles and counting... 1.7 bar boost - Whee!
> Maitland, Florida Hey! There's no mountains here!
>
****************************************************************************
**
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> From: Dave Head <dhead@sundial.sundial.net>
> Date: Sun, 23 Feb 1997 02:17:40 -0500
> Subject: Re: MultiMeters, Fluke and others
>
> At 05:28 PM 2/24/97 PST, you wrote:
>
> >The high end automotive DMM's listed above are typically only
> >purchased by full time mechanics/technicians who use
> >them on a daily basis and take advantage of their extra
> > features along with the need for their rugged construction
> > and reliability.
>
> OHHH! You mean Audi owners...!
>
> ********************************AUDI
FAN***********************************
> EMCM(SW) Dave Head
> 87 5KCStq 187K miles and counting... 1.7 bar boost - Whee!
> Maitland, Florida Hey! There's no mountains here!
>
****************************************************************************
**
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> From: Andrew Buc <72220.443@compuserve.com>
> Date: 24 Feb 97 22:52:08 EST
> Subject: Miles vs. $
>
> Since I'm at least a year and half away from being able to afford an
Audi,
> this question is for future reference. But I'll reproduce the relevant
> classifieds (from the Seattle _Times_) in case anyone's interested:
>
> '85 4000--5sp, sunroof, AC, 97K miles, good body. $3500. (206) 715-5291.
>
> '85 4000--Loaded. High miles. $1400. (206) 454-6188.
>
> My question is: is there a fudge factor as to how much you should deduct
for
> mileage on a 4k? The 2nd ad obviously isn't real informative, and the
> proverbial "all other factors" may not be equal, but I could certainly
check
> out the 2 cars if I were a serious buyer at this time.
>
> Getting a car for $1400 instead of $3500 has a certain appeal, but I have
to
> wonder if I might be putting another $2100 into it in the next couple
years.
> Your thoughts?
>
> - --Andrew Buc, Seattle, WA; Internet: 72220.443@compuserve.com
>
> ------------------------------
>
> From: "Psychotic Don't-you-dare-tickle-me Elmo" <honge@creighton.edu>
> Date: Mon, 24 Feb 1997 21:54:09 -0600 (CST)
> Subject: Re: MultiMeters, Fluke and others
>
> What's the difference between 87 and the "automotive" 88?? Just the
> housing?
>
> - ------------- clip here with virtual scissors --------------
> ************************************************************
> Send any interesting roadkills to honge@creighton.edu!
> Keyboard stuck error. Press F1 to continue.
> Fax (402) 593-8975
> Just say "Your lights are on" to DRLs
> ************************************************************
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> From: Kevin Baisley <kbaisley@earthlink.net>
> Date: Mon, 24 Feb 1997 20:39:04 -0800
> Subject: RE: Brake Sensor warning bypass trick...
>
> Before you go to all the trouble of bypassing the brake sensor ,look =
> at the wiring in the wheel well. The wiring approximately 6 inches above
=
> the brake pad warning sensor gets brittle and breaks. If you cut back =
> the insulation you will most likely find 1 or both side of the brake =
> wiring harness are cracked insulation on the wires. Just cut out the bad
=
> section and re-insulate with electrician's tape.
> If you do not want to make all the effort on this repair , the use one =
> of those blue crimping connectors that crimp wires side by side to jump =
> the harness out. Thus completing the sensor loop, but bypassing the pad =
> sensor itself.
>
> Have fun
>
> Kevin
>
> Kbaisley@Earthlink.Net
> 875ks
> 90 90 soon
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> From: Curtis Foon <cfoon@stanford.edu>
> Date: Mon, 24 Feb 1997 21:10:24 -0800 (PST)
> Subject: missing A4 headlight washer cover
>
> My poor '96 A4 is missing it's left headlight washer cover.
> It looks like it broke off, but I don't see how that could
> happen unless someone came along and took it or it was
> faulty. The dealer says that they to replace the cover and
> the washer housing for a total of $300! This is crazy. I
> drove my car twice this weekend and can't remember seeing
> it missing until I looked at my car this morning and seeing
> a hole in my bumper. Has this happened to anyone's A4
> before?
>
> - -Curtis
>
> - ----------------------
> Curtis Foon
> cfoon@stanford.edu
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> From: Paul Robertson <parobertson@puc.edu>
> Date: Mon, 24 Feb 1997 21:07:59 -0800 (PST)
> Subject: Re: 4000 hi-po cams
>
> I put a 272 Deg. cam in my 4KQ last july. I got mine from Wolf Sport.
> There was a slight drop, about 2 M.P.G. when I drive "casually" and don't
> push it. I communt up and down a five mile hill with about a 2500 foot
> elevation change (from St. Helena to Angwin for those in the bay area).
> when I drive the hill agressively my milage will drop 5-9 M.P.G. verses
> the stock cam. The engine is also more sensitive with the brand of gas
> and the octane I put in it. (doesn't seem to like Becon or B.P., Likes
> Chevron and Shell) The proformance Gain is most noticible The faster the
> car is going. Does great for passing but nothing off the line. I am happy
> with it. it is a fairly radical cam and makes the idle noticibly rougher.
> I have a complete set of specs on the cam if you would like.
>
> Paul Robertson
> parobertson@puc.edu
> 86 4KQ
> 272 Dec. Cam
> H&R spring kit
>
> On Mon, 24 Feb 1997, Brian Paul Bressler wrote:
>
> > Hello out there in audi land.
> >
> > I am contemplating adding a performance cam to my '85 4ksq. For those
of
> > you who have done this, what happens to the gas milage? are you happy
> > with it? what kind is it? what do you use your car for (track,
street,
> > street and track)? Any imput would be great. Thanks in advance.
> >
> > Brian Bressler
> > 4ksq
> > Bellingham, WA
> >
>
> ------------------------------
>
> From: MONYPT@aol.com
> Date: Tue, 25 Feb 1997 00:22:24 -0500 (EST)
> Subject: Re: Small request
>
> Bruce , If you you have to ask the price
> you.....................................
>
> ------------------------------
>
> From: David Weiss <dzweiss@worldnet.att.net>
> Date: Mon, 24 Feb 1997 23:23:28 -0800
> Subject: Re: Windows to the soul...
>
> Steve,
>
> In a message Mon, 24 Feb 1997 07:30:57 -0800 you wrote:
>
> >> ...a power window control relay swap to a euro model should give one
> >> touch up and down to my 5KCStq.
> >
> >... It should be easily possible. AAMOF I am looking into whether or
>not there is a simple mod to the one that your car already has to add
>this function. It turns out that the module does have the requisite
>relays to allow "one-touch" operation in both directions ...
>
> I'd be very interested to hear more about this!
>
> - --Dave Weiss
> '91 V8 5-spd
> '93 90 CS UnQ
>
> ------------------------------
>
> From: David Weiss <dzweiss@worldnet.att.net>
> Date: Mon, 24 Feb 1997 23:24:10 -0800
> Subject: Re: Mobil 1(and vac. leak)
>
> On Mon, 24 Feb 1997 11:25:52 -0600, Raj AUDIocee wrote:
>
> >Now I have a 84 4000s(5 cyl) For the most part
> >I used PENZOIL with a fram filter, after a while the lifters became
> >noisy. I changed to use CASTROL GTX with a FRAM dual guard filter (with
> >teflon additive) This combo did wonders for my car, no more lifter
> >noise. The next oil change was with MOBIL 1 and a Bosch filter. The
> >lifter noise is back, but I have smoother revs at 4500 rpm. Next time I
> >am going with CASTROL SYNTEC.
>
> I've stayed out of the synthetic thread(s), but feel the need to add
> $0.02. As a chemical engineer who manufactured lubricant additives for
> a number of years, I have first-hand experience with an issue which
> hasn't been addressed here: additive compatibility. Basically,
> additives can interact chemically with each other, causing precipitation
> (solids, not rain). We were very interested in this, and had some
> screening tests for various additives. One test was blending up a
> mini-package, holding at ~100C for a couple of days, and then checking
> BS&W (Bottom Solids and Water, or Bottom Sediment and Water). We
> checked our additives and those of other manufacturers. Several % BS&W
> was not uncommon. You don't want to know the worst ones.
>
> When the translucent plastic containers first came out, it was easier to
> see trace sediment before it went into the engine. We observed some.
> The industry seems to be more sensitive to this now. With a single
> brand/type of oil, the risk of interaction is low. There is no
> guarantee you won't have an interaction problem when mixing brands.
> Shell is the only motor oil manufacturer I know of that publicly
> acknowledges doing compatibility testing, perhaps because they had a
> poor reputation in the past. They say they haven't seen any interaction
> problems between their oils and other brands.
>
> The best course is to pick a quality oil that is available wherever you
> will be driving, and stay with it. Switching brands every oil change is
> just upping the odds you'll have a problem. As for the snake-oil, you'd
> think those folks would do a lot of compatibility testing...
>
> For the record, I use Mobil 1. I would like to see some fleet wear test
> results, though.
>
> - --Dave Weiss
> '91 V8 5-spd
> '93 90 CS UnQ
>
> ------------------------------
>
> From: David Weiss <dzweiss@worldnet.att.net>
> Date: Mon, 24 Feb 1997 23:24:27 -0800
> Subject: Oil Testing
>
> On Mon, 24 Feb 1997 19:12:42 -0500 (EST) you wrote:
>
> >Red Line ... tests much better than Mobil One in every ASTM test I've
>seen. It will withstand higher temperatures.
>
> Which tests? This looks like good info.
>
> ------------------------------
>
> From: jmonetti@us.net (Jonathan Monetti)
> Date: Tue, 25 Feb 1997 00:40:37
> Subject: Re: Tail-gating
>
> And if you're in New Jersey, ask for a suitcase where they will put the
FIVE POINTS
> that tailgting incurs...
>
> Jonathan Monetti
> 86 Coupe GT, 82k
>
> >Date: Mon, 24 Feb 1997 21:56:00 GMT
> >From: quk@sievers.com (Phil Payne)
> >Sender: owner-quattro@coimbra.ans.net
> >To: quattro@coimbra.ans.net
> >Subject: Tail-gating
> >
> >In message <1997Feb24.155649.1540.5943@mailgate02.mobility.com>
> > tkomljan@mobility.com (Komljanec, Tony) writes:
> >
> >> Do they ever pull over the *following* car instead of the first one?
> >
> >They do in the UK. The argument is that if you weren't held up by the
guy
> > in
> >front, you'd be going _EVEN_FASTER_!
> >
> >--
> > Phil Payne
> > phil@sievers.com
> > Committee Member, UK Audi [ur-]quattro Owners Club
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> From: "Meron" <phwomp@cosmoslink.net>
> Date: Mon, 24 Feb 1997 22:21:46 -0800
> Subject: Re: Synthoil AGAIN?? very very long,,,,,,,,,
>
> >So, how would you explain the results - scientifically, not using
> >abstract hand-waving arguments?
> Not much to say to you Alex, you are pretty well set in your "beliefs" so
> stick to them..... whatever they are, I said what had to be said and as
> soon as I think of something else I'll be happy to share it with you and
> list,
> Have a good day,
> Avi Meron
>
> ------------------------------
>
> From: bandrews@auran.com (Brendan Andrews)
> Date: Tue, 25 Feb 1997 16:21:06 +1100
> Subject: Audi A4 1.8T DSP Automatic
>
> I am about to buy an Audi A4 1.8T. After driving the car on two =
> occasions I asked the dealer to confirm my suspicion that the DSP =
> automatic transmission will not start in 1st gear, it always starts in =
> second. He agreed and said the exception is apparently if you are on a =
> steep hill. I found this a little annoying, the car is otherwise =
> fabulous. As my wife has only an automatic licence I am hamstrung. Is my
=
> and their interpretation correct and is there anything you can do about =
> this, by way of replacing part of the electronics which govern the =
> transmission?
>
> Thanks for your time,
>
> Brendan Andrews
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> End of quattro-digest V4 #347
> *****************************
>
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