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Re: Blaupunkt(?) gamma stereo (long)
siegfried wrote:
>
> Small problem?
>
> Can't answer your question regarding wattage of rear speakers but would
> like your feedback on following:
>
> 1) I also do get a slight static when energizing gamma unit. but never
> enough to blow the speakers.
>
I don't think that the static blows the speakers, but I believe that the
static is another symptom of what blows them.
>
> 2) I have never had a worse head unit than the gamma - unthinkable given
> I've had $99 audiovox (put in my '71 Ford Bronco as a giveaway to night
> theives - never stolen, despite leaving unlocked and topless in North
> Oakland, and provided years of distorted but reliable sound) . I am now
> on my third unit for a two year old car. I've checked the archives and
> found numerous complaints about the unit cutting off power to speakers
> and such - all symptons I've experienced consistently. I am tired of
> having sh*tty sound on a $30K+ car. Anybody have good suggestions on a
> good aftermarket replacement unit that does not look too out of place on
> my 95 90csq? I do not want a CD player.
>
Well, I have to disagree here. When you say you dislike the head unit,
do
you dislike the actual sound quality (besides bass response; speaker
issue)?
Or do you dislike the fact that they work sporadically? As I said
before,
I'm actually quite pleased with the sound of the unit, and generally
pleased
with the speakers.
>
> 3) Have you personally removed the rear speakers? If so I would
> appreciate general instructions. My left rear speaker cuts out from
> time to time and back on after I flat-hand the door. I think the
> connection needs to be re-soldered or something. But if removing the
> speakers, maybe I should replace them with something better? Any
> suggestions?
>
I can give you instructions for a 93 90CS, but I don't know how
different
your car is from mine.
To remove the speaker, you have to remove the door panel:
-open the door, and at the top of the door panel (bottom of the window)
on
both sides (front and back, ie one right behind the driver and one near
the
trunk) there is a single screw; unscrew them, being careful to get the
little
black washers so they don't fall. These washers are brittle, and crack
easily.
They may be stuck to the door panel; if they are then you have to use
your
fingernails or a small jewler's screwdriver.
-Next, there's a screw on the inside door grasp. Unscrew it and pull
the
bottom half of the piece of plastic down. It may take some jiggling and
forcing.
Unscrew the two screws you can see now, and pull the other half up to
get it out.
-This part is slightly easier if you lock the door. With one hand, grab
where
the grasp was, and with the other grab the bottom, and pull up as hard
as you
can. The door panel needs to move up about an inch.
-Next liberate the door latch cable (take note of the clips and how the
cable
fits onto the handle). Unplug the power window switch (don't worry too
much about
this one, it only fits in one way) and the speaker cable (a 4-pin AMP
connector)
(also only fits one way). You can now see where the screws are for the
speaker
enclosure; unscrew them, take off the enclosure, and unscrew the 3
screws
holding the speaker in. The speaker will come out through the door
panel.
Having done this, you will notice that in fact that there's nothing
loose or wrong
with the speaker, it's just blown. The fuse you saw on the speaker
enclosure
goes (I think) to the tweeter. If it goes to the woofer than it's far
overrated.
You will also notice that if you want to upgrade the speakers, you will
have to
use new grills and possibly another enclosure. Oh well.
>
> 4) P.S. I've never had a Blaupunkt last more than 18 months except for
> the original (?) radio unit on my ex-wife's 74 bug.
>
Have you had Blaupunkts on other cars that also broke? The reason I ask
is that
I think that there's in fact an electrical problem with the car that's
causing
these problems. Since my head unit is still under warranty, I will
probably have
it replaced. When it is replaced, I'm going to invest in:
-a line filter
-a ground isolator (actually another line filter)
-an inline fuse for the head unit
-fuses for the rear speakers
and try to isolate the unit a little more from the car. I'm also going
to go
with my ohm meter and make sure that they didn't do anything stupid like
connect
the speaker's negative terminal to the chassis, and that nothing's
shorting.
I hope to be able to keep using the Audi stereo since I like the way it
sounds,
and I like its convenient features, and I like the way it looks. (I
also think
that little flashing red light is neat:).
>
> Thanks in advance for your reply and good luck! GAMMAS SUCK!
Elliott