Re: Gearbox problems on a 1988 90 Q

[VINCELYONS@aol.com]

In a message dated 97-03-21 11:10:42 EST, you write:

<< The harder I shove, the more reluctant it is! It's first and second that
 give me the problems, third, fourth and fifth seem fine.
 
 Also, when I go to change into reverse, I have to push the clutch, pop
 into reverse, wait for 5 seconds or so, then take my foot off the
 clutch. If I don't wait for 5 secs, I get the most monstrous gear
 crunching sound.
 
 Can anyone help me on this? >>

If there are no actual problems such as linkage condition or alignment 
and no broken or severely worn components hiding in the trans 
perhaps just some methods might help.

The best way to engage 1st for me no matter what manual I drive is to let the
car drift, the syncro teeth are part of the gear and if they are not aligned
it ain't gonna go. Often, letting neutral do it's job instead of the
throw-out bearing at long stops can help too.

Ya gotchyer  "syncros", brass rings that are often refered to as and are
better named  "stop rings" since their thickness prevents the sliding sleeve
from going to far . I have seen them often listed as such. but their other
purpose is to "spin-up" the gear and sliding sleeve to a matched speed so
they will mesh. You have to let it do that. See the archives for long
disertations on "double-clutching" when they don't want to. Actually,
"Forcing the shift" could possibly jam the brass rings onto the taperd hub
they ride on thereby preventing them from doing their job. So, you might be
making it worse when you shift with the 10 1/2 EEE .  

Possibly some well intenioned person decided to change from the G50 gear oil
to something the trans just doesn't like.

Reverse in most cars is not syncronized as the forward gears are ( The
Volkswagen Beetle is an exception that comes to mind ) . Either give it time
or a forward gear before you go to reverse.

Vince Lyons