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Hyd. pump rebuild experience (long). (fwd)
Forwarded message:
This for everyone, but primarily Dave who missed this post awhile back.
later!
Rob
> From coimbra.ans.net!owner-quattro Wed Feb 19 19:24:04 1997
> From: "Arun Rao" <rao@quattro>
> Message-Id: <9702191706.ZM27708@quattro>
> Date: Wed, 19 Feb 1997 17:06:47 -0800
> Reply-To: rao@pixar.com
> X-Mailer: Z-Mail (3.2.3 08feb96 MediaMail)
> To: quattro@coimbra.ans.net
> Subject: Hyd. pump rebuild experience (long).
> Mime-Version: 1.0
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
> Sender: owner-quattro@coimbra.ans.net
> Precedence: bulk
>
>
> Folks,
>
> I resealed the leaky hydraulic pump on my '91 200Q (*way* too
> early, at 54K, I think) last weekend, and here's an outline of
> the procedure. Hopefully it will be of use to some fellow lister.
>
> Thanks to all the listers who helped in various ways: please
> add to or correct the following if I've missed anything.
>
> Tools:
>
> - 13, 15, 17 and 19 mm sockets and open-end wrenches.
> - U-joint extension is very helpful but not essential.
> - Set of long handled metric Allen keys or hex bit sockets.
> - Bench vise and jaw protectors or a couple of pieces of wood.
> - Hand-operated siphon (cheap plastic thingy) and turkey baster.
> - 3/4" drag-link socket for 1/2" drive, available from
> professional tools suppliers (Snap-On, MacTools)
> - 1/2" hand impact drive (any h/w store -- mine from Home Depot).
> - Hammer.
>
> Parts:
>
> - O-ring repair kit (about $20.00 from Carlsen, but I paid
> more to Blaufergnuegen instead :-()
> - 2 litres of "Ol fur zentralhydraulik ..", CHF 7.1 (*not* CHF
> 11 unless you're already using it).
>
> Procedure:
>
> 1. Drain hydraulic reservoir with siphon.
>
> 2. Disconnect hoses connected with three banjo nuts to
> the pump (all three are different sizes). The front-most
> hose is also anchored to the rear of the pump with two
> bolts. At this point you can move all but the front-most
> hose out of the way (on the 3B engine .. disregard for
> older I-5's).
>
> 3. Drain as much oil from the pump as possible using the
> baster (to minimize the amount of oil on your garage floor).
>
> 4. Loosen top mounting bolt (about which the pump swings), then
> the hard-to-reach nut on the tensioning bracket (I used two
> extensions on my drive), and then the main tension adjusting
> bolt (U-joint extension really useful for this -- the axis
> is very close to the radiator housing). Remove the tension adjusting
> bolt and then the threaded fitting into which it goes.
>
> 5. Slip belt off pulley, and swing pump enough to work the front
> hose end out from under the pump mounting collar. (Applies only
> to 3B engine).
>
> 6. Remove the last mounting bolt and lift pump out (rotate clockwise
> and lift out vertically on the 3B).
>
> 7. Clamp the pulley in the vise (use protectors) and remove the pulley
> bolts. Then remove the four bolts (two Allen head, two regular) holding
> the mounting collar to the pump.
>
> 8. Clamp the pump in the vise and remove the two long Allen head bolts
> that hold the two halves of the pump together. They're torqued down
> quite tight, but come out easily once they break loose.
>
> 9. Replace the 6 (?) little O-rings and the big middle one. There were
> little black pieces of crud in the O-ring channels in mine: I swabbed
> it
> clean with Q-tips. The O-rings must be coated with mineral oil before
> installation.
>
> 10. Remove the two check-valves (hex key, pretty tight) and replace the
> O-rings.
>
> 11. Bolt the two halves back together, and prepare to do the cap seals.
>
> 12. Clamp the drag-link socket in the vise and file down the corners by
> 1 mm on each side so that it fits the slot on the cap screws
> -- I tapered mine a little to match the shape of the slot.
> (This is actually pretty easy to do -- I had the impression that
> sockets were made of sterner stuff).
>
> 13. Clamp the pump in the vise, and do the cap seals one by one. The
> pump's very odd-shaped, so be careful when clamping it -- I had mine
> work loose a couple of times. (It would not be funny if that pump
> were to fall on your foot -- though you'd save your pump!). To remove
> the cap screw, use the impact driver with your custom drag link socket.
> For those of you who haven't used one before, you twist it as far as
> it will go counterclockwise and hit it with a hammer while doing so.
> You have to hit pretty hard, but it comes out by hand once it's loose.
>
> 14. Fit mounting collar and pulley, and then Mount pump back in the
> car,
> but connect the hoses only after filling the pump with oil and
> rotating the pulley until oil comes out of the farthest port.
>
> 15. While reconnecting the front hose, it helps if you screw in the
> rear
> mounting bolts loosely first.
>
> 16. On the 3B, there are two little metal fingers on which
> the pump drive belt can easily snag while tensioning the belt.
> Look carefully to make the belt isn't snagging before you
> start the engine (I shredded my belt by not doing so ...
> luckily the belt needed replacement anyway).
>
> 17. Refill reservoir with fluid, and start the car. Check for leaks,
> and rotate the wheel from lock to lock quickly several times to bleed.
> Make sure the reservoir stays topped up, and bleed until the air
> bubbles stop.
>
> That should do it. I didn't do the shaft seal, but any shop with
> a hydraulic press should be able to do it for you.
>
> The seals were in pretty bad shape on my car -- hard, and breaking up.
> I suspect that this was because some quick-lube place topped the
> reservoir up with the synthetic variant (CHF 11, green can w/ red cap)
> (lots of places don't know any better, as I found out the hard way).
>
> -Arun
>
> --
> Arun Rao
> Pixar Animation Studios
> Pt. Richmond, CA 94804
> (510) 215-3526
>