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Re: details of timing belt procedure (C-GT)



> Before you remove the timing belt - take out the plugs and use the 20mm socket
> to rotate the engine.

	Eh-hem...Ah Phil? Excuse me.., but I've already removed the timing belt
along with everything else except the crankshaft pulley. And the (4) 6mm
Allen bolts holding the pulley assembly to the crankshaft gear have been
broken loose already, but not removed. I am(have been) concerned that I
should have broken the crankshaft center bolt loose first, and then gone
on to remove all else. The problem was I did not have access to the
heavy duty tools reqired, so I went about removing everything I could.
So....

1>Is it possible, and I assume(hope) so, to re-bolt on the H2O pump and
the camshaft gear and then slip the old timing belt on?

2>Is it neccesary that the belt be over those gears to hold things in
place while the crankshaft center bolt is broken loose?

3>As long as the two marks are kept at TDC, I am alright...but what if
one of the gears(cam or crank) is mistakenly rotated a few degrees
WITHOUT the timing belt on and the other shaft does not rotate the same
number of degrees simultaeneously? Is it alright to simply re-align the
respective marks to TDC, or will there then be problems with the
gears/shafts, and as a result.. valves, not aligning exactly?

	?? Remove the spark plugs in order to hear a change in pressure while
checking the lifters? Or....
	I assume you meant the 19mm socket to turn the camshaft center bolt,
correct?

> ............If there is more than 0.1mm slack before the valve
> starts to open - replace the lifter.

	This slack starts at the point where one starts to push down, or at the
lowest point of that cam lobe?
 
> The engine should be hot, BTW, (the fans should have run once at least) and it
> should have run at 2500 rpm for at least two minutes.

	This is to have either pressure or some gas in the cylinders while
checking the lifters so one can hear the opening of the valve, true?

				Thanks fellow listers! Allan