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RE: quattro-digest V4 #1297
----------
From: quattro[SMTP:quattro@coimbra.ans.net]
Sent: Friday, October 31, 1997 8:28 PM
To: quattro-digest
Subject: quattro-digest V4 #1297
quattro-digest Friday, October 31 1997 Volume 04 : Number
1297
*
* Welcome to the digest version of the quattro list.
* See the end of the digest for unsubscribe info.
* In this issue:
So Slow
Re:very dumb questions...but seriously
Re: k&n filters for turbos
To Mike Murphy
Re: Plastic Rad Repair
very dumb questions
tools for 4ks fuel sys work
Invoice vs. Real Price of Audis - subject was: A4 A6
Lite cars
very dumb questions...but seriously
Invoice vs. Real Price of Audis - subject was: A4 A6
Re: A4 cat-back exhaust recommendation
Re: tools for 4ks fuel sys work
Re: Shokan blows and ESPN2
Re: very dumb questions...
Engine Flushies
Re: "Radar Scramblers"- getting longer
Re: FORWARD Directions
Re: Audi S4 or $4
Speedo/Odo/Fuel range
Re: Verbose?
New Thread, Please......
tools for 4ks fuel sys work
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Fri, 31 Oct 1997 12:47:42 -0500 (EST)
From: Boomsday@aol.com
Subject: So Slow
Hi everybody!,
Saw somebody talk about 300+ hp from a basically stock 2.2 5cyl block. I
dont
know that I want to go there but having the ability to do 0-60 in less
than
an hour sure would be nice, not to mention doing something over 90mph,
not on
the street of course...
I've got an 85 4kq with 150k on it. It runs great, idles great, gets good
gas
mileage(23-24mpg), doesnt smoke, belch, cough, or otherwise do anything
to
tell me anything is wrong. It's got new plugs, wires, cap, rotor, fuel
filter, and after an accidently removed ECU fuse (by me) my mechanic
tweaked
the snot out of the FI, found the fuse problem, wrang my neck, and the
car
has never ran better. I'm capable of doing a lot of mechanical work, so
I'm
looking for what everyone is looking for: Bolt-on, do-it-yourself,
in-expensive, go-fast. Got any ideas?
Boomsday@aol.com (Rich)
1985 4kq
1989 jetta gli 16v
1961 beetle
1988 saab 9000s
1983 scirocco
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 31 Oct 1997 11:54:43 -0600
From: Alex Kowalski (audial@aol.com) (Law Guest Account)
<lawguest@wppost.depaul.edu>
Subject: Re:very dumb questions...but seriously
But seriously, replacing the filter is a bear of a job but you might have
an
easier time if you remove the left front headlight for access and make
yourself some kind of tool for getting the latches re-snapped. Just take
your time and be careful of any wiring that's nearby. A good, small
spotlight that can illuminate in tight places is a good idea too.
Best Wishes,
Alex
'86 5KCSTQ
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 31 Oct 97 09:50:09 MST
From: DeWitt Harrison <de@aztek-eng.com>
Subject: Re: k&n filters for turbos
On Thu, 30 Oct 1997 15:18:45 -0500 (EST), <sbabbar@iris.nyit.edu> wrote,
>Who with a 5kT has used a k&n filter? How much of an improvement did it
>make? I have ram air through on of my headlights and decided that the
k&n
>wouldn't really make much of a difference. Can anyone prove me wrong?
One subjective data point for an MC motor with the stock air box: the
difference between stock and K&N air filter elements is not great enough
to detect by seat-o-the-pants method. The engine is a Ned stage I plus
RS2 and other flow related mods. On the other hand, the wife's N/A
Honda obviously breathes better at high altitude (above 9000 ft.) with a
K&N. I don't know what it means either. Perhaps the filter is not a
limiting factor in the MC's intake path.
DeWitt Harrison de@aztek-eng.com
Boulder, CO
88 5kcstq
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 31 Oct 1997 13:01:04 -0500 (EST)
From: Sachelle Babbar <sbabbar@iris.nyit.edu>
Subject: To Mike Murphy
Hi Mike. I've been trying to email you for a while and have been coming
up
with returned mail notes and shit. Nope, haven't been ignoring you. I
would like to meet. I've been trying to post my number to you, but it
hasn't gone through. I would rather not post my number up to the list, so
you have the phone book for My county? If you get it give me a call maybe
we could meet tonight. Tomorrow looks like rain and I'm in the city.
P.s. My name is spelled wrong in the book and yes, this is probably a
very
stupid thing I'm doing.
Steve
'84 5ksT 1.8 bar
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 31 Oct 1997 13:43:00 -0640
From: cobram@Channel1.Com (Cobram)
Subject: Re: Plastic Rad Repair
>
> >Anyone else experience the 80k mile radiator phenomonon?
> mine recently broke at 147K...
IK> On my '85 5000s it went at about 135kmi. Same exactly top nipple.
I got 144K out of the radiator before it went kabooom
a few years ago on the 1984 5KS. Snapped the reservoir
tube off the radator about a year ago, but was an easy
fix with some heavy duty epoxy and a threaded brass
nipple.
BCNU
... My other computer is a Commodore 64.
___ Blue Wave/386 v2.30
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 31 Oct 1997 18:05:51 GMT
From: quk@isham-research.demon.co.uk (Phil Payne)
Subject: very dumb questions
In message <3.0.1.16.19971031075321.337fd2a6@vaxd.gat.com> Jad Duncan
writes:
> The second, is a really dumb question that resulted from looking for
the
> O2 sensor, how do you change the air filter on the '89 90q? Do you
have to
> remove the intake boot and most of the fuel injection? I can't believe
you
> do, but upon first look...
He he he.
Same question that occured to me the first time I contemplated the task
on my
ur-quattro. So that's what I did, and it took me two hours.
I later found (ur-quattro, YMMV) that the recommended way is to remove
the
right front headlight and work through the resulting hole. It took me 2
1/2
hours to do it _that_ way.
Since I've become an inveterate fuel injection fiddler and have the
_right_
tools to disconnect the fuel lines from the metering head (Stahlwille
crowfoot
sockets) I can do it in a little over half an hour. I can get the
metering
head off the car in about four minutes ...
Fiddling with John Robinson's car last weekend, BTW, I discovered that it
is
_MUCH_ easier to fit a K&N filter into the LID of the air filter box and
put
it
in that way.
- --
Phil Payne
Committee Member, UK Audi [ur-]quattro Owners Club
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 31 Oct 97 09:53:09 CST
From: roger@mostro.sps.mot.com (Roger Albert)
Subject: tools for 4ks fuel sys work
Hi all,
Ok, so, I'm getting ready to really dig into my 86 4ks' fuel sys
problems,
which I've previously babbled about on this list. In the spirit of
hating
to get into a job and have things all torn down only to find out I don't
have the correct tools, what's a good basic list of tools to work on this
sys. I have a very wide range of metric hand tools from all my
motorcycle
work, but nothing like pressure gauges for the fuel system and whatever
adaptors I might need. I saw an apparently very universal FI kit from
J.C.W. but, it was $299. A bit high, unless really needed, for working
on
a single car. I also don't have a timing light anymore, though I'm about
to fix that. Otherwise, I'm very well set up electrically. Several
VOMs,
a func generator or two, and an O-scope. I guess I'm mostly worried
about
measuring fuel pressure. I do have a vac-gauge and compression tester
some
where around here.
I'd love to hear you guy's recommendations as to what tools and adaptors/
fittings I should have on hand before I plow into this.
regards
roger
===================================================
Roger Albert (go Illini!) Motorola. Austin, Texas
roger@mostro.sps.mot.com Wireless/DSP Div. 56xxx
Red 94 Ducati M900 Monster and White 65 BMW R60/2
Blue 1976 BMW R90/6 and 1974 R90/6 Sidecar project
1973 Moto Guzzi Eldorado, restoration now underway!
1986 Audi 4000S -- Yup, sometimes you need 4 wheels
- ---------------------------------------------------
Opinions expressed are always mine --, never Moto's
===================================================
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 31 Oct 1997 14:49:53 -0500
From: "Gorman, Ken (PA62)" <Ken.Gorman@ftw1.honeywell.com>
Subject: Invoice vs. Real Price of Audis - subject was: A4 A6
It was asked:
>> Any one have a recent experience on discounts from msrp on A4 30v and
a6
And a reply regarding Auto-by-Tel stated:
>>In both cases, the price worked out to $100 over true invoice and I
was able[snip]
I'm not so sure that the true invoice price quoted by Edmunds, Kelly
Blue Book, etc.
are really true invoice prices.
The local Audi dealer was offering a $39,880 A6Q for $33,880 - $6000 off
of MSRP.
Carlsen Audi in California was selling FWD A6s for $7250 off of MSRP.
Both Edmunds and Kelly Blue Book have Audi invoice prices at
approximately $4000
below MSRP and they both state that there are no known holdbacks.
Further,
Edmund's posts manufacturer to dealer incentives on their web site and
I've never
seen an Audi incentive posted. I find it hard to believe that Carlsen
was selling a
car for $3250 below its own cost. What is the difference between the
invoice price
and the true dealer cost - keeping in mind that I haven't read anywhere
of any known
dealer holdbacks for Audis.
If anyone has an explanation for these differences in prices, I'd be
interested in knowing.
Regards,
Ken
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 31 Oct 1997 19:45:35 GMT
From: quk@isham-research.demon.co.uk (Phil Payne)
Subject: Lite cars
In message <1.5.4.32.19971031163540.006c9200@sundial.net> Dave Head
writes:
> The wife asked me what car I would have above all others...
>
> Caterham Super Seven. A measly 100 hp.
>
> (and 1125 pounds...).
And an air conditioing system that adjusts to the climate outside the
car.
- --
Phil Payne
Committee Member, UK Audi [ur-]quattro Owners Club
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 31 Oct 1997 19:39:08 GMT
From: quk@isham-research.demon.co.uk (Phil Payne)
Subject: very dumb questions...but seriously
In message <s459c71e.032@wppost.depaul.edu> Alex Kowalski
(audial@aol.com)
(Law
Guest Account) writes:
> ... and make yourself some kind of tool for getting the latches
re-snapped.
I took my ur-quattro to BR Motorsport a while back for some work on the
fuel
injection that involved repeatedly removing and refitting the air mass
sensor
assembly. For convenience, Tim was taking out the air filter cover with
everything attached and dismantling on the bench. I was just chatting
away,
as
you do. When he came to refit the assembly into the car, I commented
that I
had made a tool for resnapping the catches out of a wire coathanger (in
the
trunk, next to the duct tape). I briefly described it - a flat loop for
a
handle and nine inches of strong wire with a small hook at one end.
He grinned, and held up an _exact_ copy of the one I had at home.
- --
Phil Payne
Committee Member, UK Audi [ur-]quattro Owners Club
------------------------------
Date: 31 Oct 1997 13:50:38 -0600
From: "Gorman, Ken (PA62)" <Ken.Gorman@IAC.honeywell.com>
Subject: Invoice vs. Real Price of Audis - subject was: A4 A6
It was asked:
>> Any one have a recent experience on discounts from msrp on A4 30v and
a6
And a reply regarding Auto-by-Tel stated:
>>In both cases, the price worked out to $100 over true invoice and I was
able[snip]
I'm not so sure that the true invoice price quoted by Edmunds, Kelly Blue
Book, etc.
are really true invoice prices.
The local Audi dealer was offering a $39,880 A6Q for $33,880 - $6000 off
of
MSRP.
Carlsen Audi in California was selling FWD A6s for $7250 off of MSRP.
Both Edmunds and Kelly Blue Book have Audi invoice prices at
approximately
$4000
below MSRP and they both state that there are no known holdbacks.
Further,
Edmund's posts manufacturer to dealer incentives on their web site and
I've
never
seen an Audi incentive posted. I find it hard to believe that Carlsen
was
selling a
car for $3250 below its own cost. What is the difference between the
invoice
price
and the true dealer cost - keeping in mind that I haven't read anywhere
of
any known
dealer holdbacks for Audis.
If anyone has an explanation for these differences in prices, I'd be
interested in knowing.
Regards,
Ken
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 31 Oct 1997 15:04:35 -0800
From: Huw Powell <human@nh.ultranet.com>
Subject: Re: A4 cat-back exhaust recommendation
> I have >experimented with< this issue and here's my 0.02c FWIW:
>
> Reasons to modify standard exhaust are:
>
> 1-performance gain: on a normally aspirated car these are pretty small,
> almost certainly less than 10hp and this is barely perceptible,
unless
> the stock system is *very* restricted.
I put what was essentially a 2-1/4" system from an old 5kt behind a set
of 4kq
headers/downpipe on my 82 coupe. The difference is quite palpable. The
sound
ain't bad but there's a bit of a "whirring" noise around 3200 rpm - maybe
the
empty cat resonating? the difference between the coupe and 4kq stock
systems
is
10 hp, which I have been led to believe is just due to the only
difference,
the
exhaust system. Maybe I even got a couple more from the bigger pipe & no
real
cat
(a temporary situation...). That's over 10% in this case, no wonder I
can
feel
it.
Sorry no dyno tests or time slips tho'
> 2-sound change: this gives the *perception* of greater performance.
Louder
> is not necessarily better - look for a system that improves the
*quality*
> of the sound.
Yeah, I'd prefer silent but deadly. As it is it sounds a bit like a 5
liter
rustang when idling. Just not when revving!
> 3-looks - this is purely dependent on the tailpipe design and finish
and is
> very much in the eye of the beholder.
yeah, well, mine's fairly ugly. Muffler's a bit big for the car and the
tailpipe
is a wierdly bent (per my foolish diagram) Mieneke job. Works though,
whole
thing
cost about $350 including S/S hardware and chain type hangers.
> I don't believe the expense of a full cat-back changeover is worth it
on a
> normally aspirated vehicle and you can achieve the sound/looks result
with
> the far cheaper Remus or similar mod.
probably depends mostly on, as you said, how restricted the stock system
is/was.
The stock 82 coupe has this pathetic little exhaust manifold that crams
everything
into about 1 1.4" pipe. The 4kq headers are way cool, gently guiding the
gases
down to a roughly 2-1/4" outlet. So I had a lot to gain. Dunno about
the
A4...
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 31 Oct 1997 12:09:23 -0800 (PST)
From: Orin Eman <orin@WOLFENET.com>
Subject: Re: tools for 4ks fuel sys work
> sys. I have a very wide range of metric hand tools from all my
motorcycle
> work, but nothing like pressure gauges for the fuel system and whatever
> adaptors I might need. I saw an apparently very universal FI kit from
> J.C.W. but, it was $299. A bit high, unless really needed, for working
on
They have a kit for Bosch CIS too. More like $50 to $60...
You'll want a _very long_ 3mm allen wrench and either a dwell meter
or a VOM for setting the mixture. (These wrenches are < $3 at any
_decent_ hardware store eg Tacoma Screw Products for those of us
in the Seattle Tacoma area.)
Orin.
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 31 Oct 97 14:58:14 EST
From: Daniel Hussey <GY3WSX@VM.SC.EDU>
Subject: Re: Shokan blows and ESPN2
Sarge,
Yes, Shokan blows! I've had to send parts back to them 2-3 times
before
they got it right and they sell junk and pass it off as used parts. I
would
throw away most of the stuff they try to sell.
On another note. Last week I was watching ESPN2 and happened to see
Sprongol fly by in the Audi S2 and I was like, Cool, I'll watch this. It
was
ESPN2's coverage of the Maine Forest Rally. And, Sprongol won it! I
don't
know what rally you were watching where his motor blows up. BTW, it was
really
cool because Frank's clutch in the S2 was pretty much dead, but they made
it
work the MacGuyver method. They poured Coke and baking soda in the
clutch to
get it "sticky" and it worked! They finnished, and finnished first!
Congrats to Sprongol and Team Audi, although I know that event was a
while
back. First time I'd seen it tho. The Prescott Rally will be airing in
Nov!
Can't wait for it! Anyone getting these on video??? I'd pay for a
compilation
of the '97 ESPN2 coverage of the SCCA Pro Rally circuit. Sorry, no VCR
here
or I'd do it myself!
Also, to those of you wanting to catch when these events will be
airing
on ESPN2 (Mt Washington Hillclimb was mentioned), check out ESPN's web
site at
http://www.espnet.com (or something like that). It's been a while since
I
checked it, but they have a complete listing of when things will be
airing on
ESPN and ESPN2 in the next month! If I get some extra time I'll post the
dates
to the list.
Hope this helps!
Later,
Dan
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 31 Oct 1997 13:33:51 -0700 (MST)
From: Robert W Obrien <rwo@u.arizona.edu>
Subject: Re: very dumb questions...
On Fri, 31 Oct 1997, Alex Kowalski wrote:
> Changing the air filter is a simple, two step procedure:
>
> Step 1:
>
> Disassemble the entire automobile
>
> Step 2:
>
> Reassemble the automobile around the new air filter
>
> I really think this is how the factory does it. ;-)
>
>
>
>
Alex (and every other 10vt owner!)-
The simplest way takes about half an hour. Did it once without removing
everything. Swore at it for 1.5 hrs. Now I just remove the RF headlight
and BAM that filter's outta here! Also, if you remove the housing this
way, the 02 sensor gets real accessible too- did mine with Liquid Wrench
and a crescent!
Headlight removal for air filter- Logical? No. Quick? Yes.
Regards,
Rob
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 31 Oct 1997 14:46:29 CDT
From: "Al Powell" <apowell@agcom.tamu.edu>
Subject: Engine Flushies
About engine flushes....
Before changing to synthetic oil, I have used an engine flush made by
"Gunk". It's a one-quart additive. Amsoil recommends using their
own engine flush, similar to the one above, and I would use it in
preference to Gunk if I'd had any of it - but I didn't...
The purpose is to try and clean out deposits which form even in the
cleanest petro-oil engine. Synthetic is incredibly detergent and
will continue to clean the engine after it's added. You're just
trying to knock out as much as possible before the oil goes in.
The cleaning effect of synthetic is not a bad reason to do a 3K oil
change after the changeover, even if you intend to run longer oil
change intervals after that.
In South Africa? Gee, I dunno. If I didn't find soimething labeled
for the engine flush, I would use a quart of Automatic Transmission
Fluid, run the engine for at least 30 minutes, then drain. ATF is
very detergent. Back in the 60's and 70's it was not uncommon for
"car guys" to add a quart before the oil change to clean the engine
and also to clean the hydraulic valve lifters. Can't vouch for the
virtues of the latter, but to the best of my knowledge ATF does not
harm anything, and might help clean, as long as you don't do highway
driving with it in there.
NOTE: with engine flushes and ATF in the engine, driving before the
oil change is NOT recommended. Both thin the oil considerably (ATF
less, of course) and lubrication may not be adequate for load-bearing
work. Just add 'em and idle for 30 minutes or so, then drain oil
and change filter.
*******************************************************
Al Powell Voice: 409/845-2807
107 Reed McDonald Bldg. Fax: 409/862-1202
College Station, TX 77843
Http://agcomwww.tamu.edu/agcom/satellit/alpage.htm
*******************************************************
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 31 Oct 97 13:29:01 MST
From: DeWitt Harrison <de@aztek-eng.com>
Subject: Re: "Radar Scramblers"- getting longer
On Thu, 30 Oct 1997 15:28:31 -0500, Arryn Milne wrote:
>DeWitt Harrison wrote:
>>[ ... ] I think the car-to-doohickey-ratio
>> would be something like 2 square meters divided by 0.0005 square
meters.
>> Fudge all you want, but the cop's supersensitive-califragilistic
zapper
will
>> see all car and no doohickey.
>
>Isn't a non-transmitting jammer an oxymoron? [ ... ]
Bingo. But the Phazer argument is that noise is mixed with the
reflected return. More below.
>Anyway, still have to worry about vascar, pacing, and lidar :-(
Sadly true. This means we still have to be awake while driving.
- --------
And on Thu, 30 Oct 1997 16:44:37 -0500, Frederic Breitwieser wrote:
>The unit I have, the Phazer II, was in fact tested with X-band (I own a
>unit for measuring racing speeds <G>), and a friend of mine is a NY
state
>trooper, and yes, it does screw up the KA and Pulsing KA (Instant on).
>
>Never tested it against Lidar.
With all due respect, Frederic, I'm still waiting for that Phazer
Shootout
report in R&T / C&D. One of these mags did look at a lidar stealth
license plate cover once. Results negative on that one. Regarding X
band, any decent radar detector can sniff it out a mile away around
a corner. It's continuous broadcast bounces off of everything.
- --------
And on Thu, 30 Oct 1997 20:44:28 -0500, Kirby Smith wrote,
>The operative word is corner reflector. I won't speak to radar, not my
bag, but
>your average bicycle reflector (made up of zillions of mini corner
reflectors)
>has an optical crosssection of roughly 100 meters squared. And it only
occupies
>an area of 0.0025 meters squared.
>
>The above comment is not intended to support the idea of passive jamming
(a
>contradiction in terms). Passive countermeasuring may be doable, but is
usually
>difficult for a variety of reasons. Better to transmit a deceptive or
>interfering signal. [ ... ]
I did say "fudge all you want," so suggesting a corner reflector is fair.
A
corner reflector having physical dimensions much larger than the signal's
wavelength has the wonderful quality of reflecting directly back to the
source without needing to be aimed accurately. So a corner reflector may
certainly return as much signal as a much larger object which is a poor
reflector. But it cannot be larger than it is. (100 square meters of
what?)
At any rate, I will easily agree that my car-to-doohickey-ratio could
well
be reduced from my initial 4000 to 1 estimate, at least in the case of
lidar
with it's wavelength on the order of 0.000001 meter. This is because
1) at such small wavelengths it's possible to build small reflectors
(bicycle)
with narrow beam patterns and
2) the beam pattern of the light returned from the car will much wider
because its many reflective surfaces are not organized for this purpose.
The upshot is that as the source-to-target distance becomes greater, the
bicycle reflector becomes relatively more efficient. At some distance,
it is quite possible that the small, narrow beam reflector will return as
much light to the source as will the car, even though the total amount
of light bouncing of off the car is much greater. Of course, placing
the bicycle reflector behind a windshield will drastically reduce its
effectiveness as the light suffers large reflective losses in both
directions.
Radar is a different matter. The highest frequency band in current use
is Ka at 26.5 - 40 GHz (wavelengths in the 7.5 - 11.3 mm range).
Compared to lidar, the wavelength of Ka radar is roughly 10,000 times
greater. The bicycle reflector now must be scaled up accordingly or
suffer from greatly increased beam width. Now the small passive reflector
and the front of the car are at parity in terms of efficiency and now
my 4000 : 1 ratio isn't farfetched. In the case of the Phazer, you
must also consider the losses incurred in a passive mixer intended to
add noise to the reflection. (One of you radio types ought to speculate
on what this circuit would look like.) To spare Phil any additional
agony
on this topic, please email privately. I've got Jasik's Antenna
Engineering
Handbook open to radar reflectors.
For putting up with all this nonsense, I make a gift to the list
consisting
of my revolutionary, low cost, anti-lidar passive jammer design:
Cover an old soccer ball (football) with small bicycle reflectors
attaching
them with springs from discarded ball point pens. Mount this assembly on
top of a 10 meter mast. As you drive along at high speed, the rush of
air
will cause all the sprung reflectors to flutter wildly thereby imparting
a big
doppler noise component to any lidar return signal. The mast will allow
you to baffle the lidar operator even before your car has cleared the
horizon.
Failing that, the operator will be paralyzed by laughter. Everyone has my
permission to copy this design freely.
Thanks for your patience,
DeWitt Harrison de@aztek-eng.com
Boulder, CO
88 5kcstq
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 31 Oct 1997 15:59:04 -0500
From: BRUCE <BRUCE@mannlawfirm.com>
Subject: Re: FORWARD Directions
I am all for moving forward, even if I "...am going for the exception".
The baseline numbers you have calculated are based, correct me if I am
wrong,
on stock CI and stock valve, no? Now, if you [Scott?] want to lump me
with
Eric and Randall in my questions [ie., if CR is sooo high, and density so
poor,
how do you get 1325 egt's yet not run rich?], so be it, as a guy could do
much
worse, IMHO.
As Scott so aptly repeats, fast is a relative term. But, Scott, this
poster
is
not some 16 yr old w/ wood because he got grandma's car to spin the tires
in
the rain. Frankly, the argument could be made, based on other toys and
cars I
have owned that no, in fact, Eric's car was not fast, neither is Carl's
or
Ross' or yours for that matter---that is unless one of them breaks out at
a
10.25 quarter. What I should have said is: Whatever Eric has done to
his car
has been done very well because it consistently ran hard and was quite
quick,
throughout the gears, for an Audi, IN MY OPINION.
I am finished with this subject now.
Bruce
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 1 Nov 1997 00:06:22 +0200
From: "Jouko Haapanen" <joukoh@vtoy.fi>
Subject: Re: Audi S4 or $4
Here the S4 costs 100 000.00 US dollars...
You can get a base 1.6 A4 sedan with minnimal equipment for 35 000.00
But we have health care ;^)
Jouko Haapanen
Pori, Finland
ps. gas costs over one dollar / litre - and is going up another 10% in
Jan
98
- ----------
> From: Josh Pinkert <flush@radix.net>
> To: MR ANGELO A ALEXOPOULOS <TGVH67A@PRODIGY.COM>;
quattro@coimbra.ans.net
> Subject: Re: Audi S4 or $4
> Date: 31. lokakuuta 1997 15:07
>
> At 10:38 PM 10/30/97 -0500, MR ANGELO A ALEXOPOULOS wrote:
> > Hey everyone,
> >I was at my local repair shop the other day and he let me take a back
> >issue of Autoweek that featured the Frankfurt Auto Show where Audi
> >debuted the S4. They have it listed for $50,000!!! I did not realize
> >that Audi wanted to price it above an M3. Are they crazy?!?!?!?! I do
> >know that usually the prices do drop once they reach the States, but
> >than again I do not know if this car will ever reach these shores. I
> >think Audi should rethink their prices.
> >
>
> The European version of the M3 costs more than $50,000....but it also
makes
> 321hp vs. the US spec M3 @ 240hp.
>
>
> - Josh Pinkert
> - flush@radix.net
>
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 31 Oct 97 16:02:40 EST
From: Steinbru@vnet.ibm.com
Subject: Speedo/Odo/Fuel range
Dave Shreeve <shreevda@cannondale.com> wrote:
I have recently acquired an '88 5kcstqw with only 61k+ registered miles
...that's when the speedo/odo quit working....
Well, my speedo and odo just recently stopped working, and I
disassembled to find that the instrument on my '86 is electronic not
mechanical. I cleaned all contacts to the main board and reassembled.
It has been working fine ever since. For disassembly the Bentley
instructions are adequate, but watch the "snap on" connectors for the
horn "button", they are fragile. Pull slowly and evenly. I collected a
bunch of spares at the bone yard.
- --Gary
('86's:5ks&5ktq+'87CGT)
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 31 Oct 97 14:00:33 MST
From: DeWitt Harrison <de@aztek-eng.com>
Subject: Re: Verbose?
On Thu, 30 Oct 97 20:13:14 UT, Jim Haseltine wrote:
>From: owner-quattro@coimbra.ans.net on behalf of Phil Payne
>>In general, Europeans regard Americans as verbose.
>
>I remember a remark made about an American visitor -
>"Verbal diarrhorea - and mental constipation"
We can become very concise when ruffled.
DeWitt Harrison de@aztek-eng.com
Boulder, CO
88 5kcstq
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 31 Oct 1997 15:20:46 CDT
From: "Al Powell" <apowell@agcom.tamu.edu>
Subject: New Thread, Please......
Dave head quoth:
>The wife asked me what car I would have above all others...
>Caterham Super Seven. A measly 100 hp.
>(and 1125 pounds...).
I'm game for a new thread, and I'll try "Dream Cars" for 10,
Alex......
My whole (driving) life, I've wanted a Mercedes Gullwing. Don't ask
me why. Doesn't matter.
But just for TODAY, what I really want is my 1966 Pontiac GTO
back. 389 cid, 440 lbs/ft of torque at 2800 rpm, 4-bbl Carter
carb (aka: "The Flush Toilet") and positrac rear end. Dark (Barrier)
blue, with black interior. Red pinstripes on both fenders, and
Goodyear red stripe Polyglas tires. A gorgeous car!! (Gas mileage
be damned...my 85 Chevy pu gets the SAME gas mileage the GTO did!!)
Or so it seems to me at 3:21 pm CT, USA.
*******************************************************
Al Powell Voice: 409/845-2807
107 Reed McDonald Bldg. Fax: 409/862-1202
College Station, TX 77843
Http://agcomwww.tamu.edu/agcom/satellit/alpage.htm
*******************************************************
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 31 Oct 1997 21:03:37 GMT
From: quk@isham-research.demon.co.uk (Phil Payne)
Subject: tools for 4ks fuel sys work
In message <9710311553.AA28472@mostro.sps.mot.com>
roger@mostro.sps.mot.com
(Roger Albert) writes:
> Ok, so, I'm getting ready to really dig into my 86 4ks' fuel sys
problems,
> which I've previously babbled about on this list. In the spirit of
hating
> to get into a job and have things all torn down only to find out I
don't
> have the correct tools, what's a good basic list of tools to work on
this
> sys.
(Heh, heh.)
First off - a fuel pressure gauge. I got a 'Star Hoffman' gauge from JC
Whitney (stock # 12NR3617U) for $54.95. Second - a portable CO meter.
Third
-
a DMM with 5-cylinder RPM and duty cycle readouts. A second meter is
useful
for things like idle stabiliser setting - looking for 800 rpm at 430ma,
for
instance.
The fittings on Audi fuel injection are mostly flare nuts, but I found
that
special flare nut wrenches aren't all that useful. I have 12mm, 14mm and
17mm
deep 12-point Crowfoot flare nut sockets, which are to die for if you do
a
lot
of this work. Get Stahlwille rather than Snap-On, because Stahlwille are
1/4" drive and _MUCH_ more manoeuverable in the tight confines of the top
of a metering head. Most of the nuts are brass rather than steel, so
getting
a
good purchase before applying torque is essential. I've found that most
of
the
'in-line' connections are best tackled with high-quality (I use Bahco)
adjustable wrenches. Something with thick jaws.
Don't forget a cloth (an old towel is best) to wrap around the first
joint
you
open - you'll have to catch an ounce or two of fuel. Pre-order some
replacement copper washers (Audi calls them gaskets) and expect to have
to
replace every one - two on most fittings. There are three different
sizes on
most Audi systems.
Some of the head fittings are banto/banjo bolts with 6mm and 10mm Allen
heads.
I recommend _against_ the 'ball end' type of Allen driver, as they tend
to
cut
into the relatively soft metal and can wind up captive in the damn bolt
when
you finally get it off. BTDT - NDIA. Depending on the geography of your
engine compartment, you may have to shorten Allen wrenches. You may find
'undoing torque' _VERY_ high on some components, and a robust pair of
grips
with soft jaws can be handy for applying opposing torque so you don't
just
rip
the whole thing out.
If you start _serious_ messing about, you'll need a linear caliper
(needn't
be
amazingly high quality - 0.05mm precision is fine, and accuracy
unimportant)
and a depth gauge with a fairly wide base - 60mm is terrific. The
caliper is
for measuring the protrusion of the plunger from the bottom of the
metering
head, and transfering the value to any replacement head or the same one
after
you've R&Red the plunger. The depth gauge is for measuring the depth
below
the
metering head base of the roller moved around by the air mass sensor
paddle,
and for measuring the position of the paddle itself. Accuracy is
important,
because you have to match Audi's settings. You should really have a
feeler
gauge to check that the paddle isn't fouling the funnel, but a piece of
paper
will do as well.
Coathanger wire is useful here, too. I have a set of hooks made up with
some
small diameter rubber hose slipped on one end - you can hook them into
the
underside of the bonnet (hood) and use them to hold fuel lines, etc., out
of
the way.
Most important item of all - Charles Probst's book on Bosch Fuel
Injection,
published by Robert Bentley.
- --
Phil Payne
Committee Member, UK Audi [ur-]quattro Owners Club
------------------------------
End of quattro-digest V4 #1297
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