Misc suspension/steering work

[Mike Arman <armanmik@n-jcenter.com>]

Changed the rack on my 86 5 Ks last weekend. Put in one of Jorgen's racks,
$162 delivered (Fedex), lifetime warranty, etc. (YMMV)

Three problems came to light:

1. Needed an assistant to press down on spring-loaded steering wheel to
properly adjust column coupler at base of steering column.

2. Right side lower control arm was bent sometime between 1986 and yesterday.

3. Tie rod adjustments corroded solid, can't re-adjust or center steering
wheel (off by about 45 degrees).

Answers: 

1. Couldn't find anyone to help me, declined to drive around with steering
wheel scraping against unknown expensive internal parts.

Required: one clean 8 foot two by four (50mm by 100mm for Phil - but only
comes in 8 foot lengths, right! (G!) ), length of rope, two Ancra brand
(ratcheting type) tie-down straps.

Open hood and both front doors. Place two by four across steering wheel,
right end on seat, left end across steering wheel. At steering wheel end of
two by four, loosely loop first tie-down around two by four, with other
ends hooked to hood hinge, being careful not to contact any painted areas
with the buckle. At passenger side of two by four, loop other tie down
around two by four, other ends hooked to lower door hinge.

Gently take up slack. Two by four is now across the steering wheel, held
there by tie downs at each end. Take length of rope, tie two by four to
steering wheel so the two by four can't shift and scrape or scratch anything.

Press down (inward - toward engine compartment) on steering wheel - feel
for motion, and evenly take up the slack in the tie-downs on each end until
the steering wheel only moves the specified 1/8" when pressed. Go gently
here - remember that we love our Audis and are doing this for their own good!

Once correct range of motion is achieved, lay on your back and using a 12"
drift and a hammer, tap the coupler down fully so it is seated correctly on
the stub of the steering shaft of the rack. You need the dirft because you
can't get a hammer in there to tap on things. You can reach up the shaft
and feel where the column pins are fully engaged in the coupler bushings -
(that will make perfect sense if you have ever done this, and no sense at
all until you do). Tighten the 13mm nut and bolt which clamp the coupler to
the shaft.

Take apart all the tie-downs, rope, lumber, etc. Voila, absolute perfection!!!

2. R&R lower control arms - you MUST remove the anti-sway bar bushings (4
times 19mm), or this job is utterly impossible. You can muscle it apart,
but there's NO WAY it will go back together with the anti-sway bar still
bolted in place. The little rubber boot is available separately (outside
end of lower control arm), and if you can't figure out how to re-install
the metal spiral-lock clip, use a small tie-wrap. (I find myself using a
lot of these lately). With the anti-sway bar loosened, this job is
downright easy. Note that the rear nuts are kind of "access-impaired" (what
else is new) and if you use the box end of a 19mm wrench, once the hardware
is tightened, the wrench is trapped (ask me how I know!), so use the open
end and cuss a little until you get the alignment right and the bolt
started and tight.

3. Frozen tie-rod ends: Used penetrating oil, patience and large adjustable
wrench on passenger side - no real problems there. Driver's side had been
butchered and would NOT come loose. Removed tie rod - nut was cross
threaded, and tie rod was REALLY stuck in the suspension arm. Took large
gear puller, cranked down on it (jaws on arm, screw on spindle of tie-rod
end), no action! Carefully added heat from propane torch (heat the arm, be
careful of the rubber boot), waited a few moments, CRACK!!! - tie rod end
popped out nice as you could please. Removed driver's side tie rod from
parts car, put it in bench vice, loosened hardware (a snap, once you can
get at it), adjusted length to match removed part, reinstalled new part. 44
ft lbs torque on rack end, folded lock tab back, same on tie rod nut.

Oh boy, is the alignment shop going to be amazed when I come back with
everything ready to be set! (Them: "Uh, camber isn't adjustable on these
cars." Me: (non-confrontational tone of voice) "Yes, it is. You loosen
these three nuts and you can shift the top of the shock tower." Them: (look
of amazement) "Oh, yeah! How about that!)

Amazingly, these are the BEST guys within 50 miles. The guy had enough
sense to stop and not force anything during the first try (when we found
the bent control arm), and he's just going to charge me for toe-in
adjustment, not some B.S. "$29.95 lifetime warranty complete alignment" on
a car nobody knows anything about anyway. It probably helped that I went
down into the alignment pit with the guy and showed him where to find
everything - he quickly realized I knew (lots) more about this car than he
did, and was VERY VERY careful - which is exactly what I wanted.

Best Regards,

Mike Arman