RE: 'Took' '87 Audi, 5000s, Palm Harbor, Fl. (long message)

[Aleksander Mierzwa <alex@matrix.com.pl>]

Jo wrote:

	>Yes, I can use super glue, use a wrench, twist wires and yes, I
have an emory board.  I can >take one thing at a time - I'll ask a lot
of questions, probably dumb ones - so if this >group is really up for
it...

You'll need a repair manual. There are two to choose from: Haynes and
Bentley. Haynes manual is cheap and is written with an do-it-yourselfer
in mind, but does not cover some important items (like climate control
system). Bentley is expensive (over 100 bucks), but it's actually a
reprint of the original manual Audi sends to the dealerships. 

	>What about the transmission needing to be drained.  I took it
to 'Lube&Lather', they told >me the transmission fluid was burned and I
needed it drained.  They charge $89, the dealer >charges $69.  I'd be
willing to pay $69.  I don't think I could do this task.  How >important
is this?  Am I causing the car more harm each day that goes by?

Yes, it is very important. 90% of transmission failures are because of
failure to change overheated fluid. Fluid change isn't a difficult job,
provided you have access to the lift or inspection pit - if you have to
do it in the driveway, it certainly pays to spend couple of bucks more
to make someone else do this. Take this precautions:
- One has to remove the pan and filter and clean both elements. Some
mechanics will just drain the old fluid and pour fresh one in,
considering this a fluid change. Demand that the filter be removed and
cleaned. The pan gasket should, and the filter gasket _must_ be renewed
when doing this.
- Only half of the total fluid capacity gets drained - other half
remains in the torque converter. After first fluid change, drive the car
for couple hundred miles and change the fluid again. You don't have to
go through the filter cleaning procedure again, just drain the fluid and
pour fresh one in. I bought an electric oil pump ("made in China", spent
under $20, dunno if it's available in US), so I can suck the fluid
through the dipstick tube. Change the fluid one more time to make sure
you got all the old stuff out.
- It's a good idea to use synthetic fluid. It resists heat much better
while having good flow charachteristics at low temperatures. I use a
semi-synthetic stuff made by a Dutch company "VAT". In US you can buy
Mobil 1 or Redline, which are fully sythetic fluids.   
- Apart from draining the ATF (Automatic Transmission Fluid) you should
have the differential fluid checked and, if required, topped up. There's
a plug near the LH driveshaft, the fluid level should be up to the plug
hole. If the differential seems to be seriously overfilled (lots of
fluid escapes when the plug is removed) it usually means the seal
between the gearbox and differential is leaking.

	>I'd like to replace the muffler first - the noise is getting on
my nerves, I think it's the >muffler causing this noise but the
vibration feels more toward the front of the car.  If I >take it to
somewhere like Midas how will I know if I need a new muffler or a whole
new >system before I go?  If I just need a new muffler - is it easy?
Can I do it myself?

There are two mufflers on a 5K. If one of them needs to be replaced, the
other one usually is on end of it's life as well. Threre's no point in
trying to salvage a rusty exhaust pipe and anyway replacement mufflers
already come with the connecting pipes attached, so the whole exhaust
gets replaced. My advice: get the whole system replaced and forget about
it for next couple of years.

	>When I took the door panel off I was able to hook some 'wire
stick looking thing' (okay >guys stop laughing) that had a hole in it to
a latch - now I can open my door with my key.  >I mean I stick the key
in, turn it and the door actually physically pops open.  I know this >is
not right but at least I can get in.  There were two of those wires.  I
left the other >unhooked because it didn't seem to fix anything.

One of the wire sticks is for locking/unlocking the door and the other
(the one you have connected) is for opening them. The door handle has
two applicable levers. Why exactly won't your door open with the handle
- is it because the handle is broken? In this case you'll need new (or
used) door handle. Door handles as well as locks and window rails should
be lubed approx. once in a year. I use machine oil for lubing the locks
and door handles, multi purpose grease for greasing the window rails and
WD-40 for those hard to get to places.

	>When I make a turn, I'm hearing a clicking noise up by the
front tires. 

Probably worn outer CV joint.

 	>The steering is starting to get kind of hard.  

Do you have any leaks from the hydraulic system (especially pump and
rack). Power steering pump is the thing driven by a belt located between
the engine and the radiator. The rack is the metal tube with rubber boot
located at the firewall.

Aleksander Mierzwa
Warsaw, Poland
mailto:alex@matrix.com.pl
87 Audi 5000CS turbo (mine)
88 Renault Medallion wagon (mom's)
91 mountain bike (just in case both cars broke at the same time :-)