Advice and gotchas on the timeing belt ??

[quk@isham-research.demon.co.uk (Phil Payne)]

In message <01BD3B82.A2AEE4C0@GBireta.mts.com> Alan Cordeiro writes:

> This morning I noticed two references in the digest to problems when
> changing the timing belt, and one reference to the special Zelenda tool.
> I was hoping to get by without this tool somehow, perhaps by stuffing
> rope into the number one cylinder ( from Graydon...)

This is something I wrote up for the UK Club Newsletter.  Since Dave Preece, 
our chairman, is more interested in organising trips to Continental Europe
than passing on good technical tips, it never got used.  C'est la via, as the 
Italians say:
 
============================================================================ 
As we all know, timing belt failure can be not only expensive but
embarrassing.  Changing the timing belt on an I5 engine requires removal
of the harmonic balancer and pulley assembly from the front end of the
crankshaft - the torque required making this a bit of a problem.
Without a doubt the best way is to employ the Audi special tool (2084)
to hold the system immobile.  Another way is to put the car in gear and
stand on the brakes - placing great strain on the transmission.

Allan Jones (ampj@tiac.net) and Mike Tipton (miktip@worldnet.att.net)
of the international quattro mailing list have developed a third
method.  The usual UK Audi quattro Owners Club disclaimers apply:

1. Strip accessories and turn engine to TDC using the distributor
   mark, "0" mark on the flywheel and the mark on the rear of the
   camshaft gear.

2. Either remove a single transmission bolt - the easiest is the one
   directly behind the flywheel timing aperture - or obtain a spare
   (Audi part # N 010 488 3 - M12 x 85).

3. Directly below the bolt removed, and below one or two sensors, are
   two holes in the side of the flywheel housing.  These may be hard
   to see around the bulge - a long light and a mechanic's mirror are
   useful.  The front hole of the pair is the one used.

4. While watching the hole in the mirror, turn the engine 15 to 20
   degrees clockwise (viewed from the front) using a socket on the
   camshaft pulley.  The flywheel holes are quite large and hard to
   miss if the engine is turning slowly - and should be perfectly
   lined up to take the bolt.

5. With the bolt in place, the crankshaft bolt can be broken loose.

6. Leaving the crankshaft bolt and harmonic damper in place for the
   moment, remove the blocking bolt and turn the engine back to TDC.
 
7. Change the timing belt and anything else you feel like doing.
 
In the immortal Audi phrase, refitting is the reverse of removal.
Assemble the engine at TDC.  Once the crankshaft pulley bolt is a little
over finger tight, the engine can be turned to line up the holes again.

The torque given for the crankshaft bolt in the Audi microfiche - 350 Nm
or 258 lb ft - assumes that Audi's torque multiplier (2079) is being used.
Without 2079, the correct torque is 450 Nm or 332 lb ft.  Audi recommend
coating both threads and mating surfaces with AMV 188 000 02 -
an anti-corrosion compound - but do not state that the bolt must
be renewed, unusual for a high-torque fixing.


-- 
 Phil Payne
 Committee Member, UK Audi [ur-]quattro Owners Club