Re: brake bleeding

[Porsray <Porsray@aol.com>]

Somebody else asked me this, and I have been looking for article I
wrote for our Porsche Club newsletter.   Haven't found it yet, but briefly it
is to drill a hole in a spare reservoir cap, install a valve stem without the
core
(metal screw-in style), get an air tank, install a clamp-on style air hose 
connection on the air tank hose (like on those DC air compressors).  
Pressurizer the tank to about 20 psi. Clamp closed any bleed hose on the
reservoir.

Now, pull out old fluid from reservoir with turkey baster and fill reservoir
nearly
to top.  Start at right rear, jack up car and remove wheel.  Install a clear
hose from bleed valve to a small container with some fluid in it; submerge end
of hose in fluid.  It should be a firm push fit on the bleed valve.  Now open
the bleed valve.

When you connect the air tank hose to the reservoir cover/valve stem, you 
pressurizer the reservoir and force the bad fluid out the bleed valve.  I do
this until reservoir has been dragged down to about 1/2 full (WATCH LEVELS),
then close the bleed valve and disconnect the air tank.  The clear hose 
connection at the bleed valve allows you to watch the progress of the bled
fluid; you should not see any bubbles when you stop; if you do, continue the
bleeding.

Once done with the right rear, fill the reservoir again and proceed to left
rear, right
front, and left front in that order.

For you Audi folks with ABS, start at the bleed port on the master cylinder.

Ray Calvo
1995 993
1990 Coupe Quattro

In a message dated 98-03-01 21:36:30 EST, you write:

<< 
 Hi, Ray,
 I'm curcious about your brake bleeding system. I've been using vacuum
 bleeder with mixed results.  Your method sounds better...a lot better. 
 How do you do it, and what with?
 Thanks,
 Bill Fulton
 98 Boxster
 70 911S
  >>