Clutch slave cylinder R&R

[Mike Arman <armanmik@n-jcenter.com>]

>
>Date: Wed, 6 May 1998 18:53:05 EDT
>From: Jpdstudio <Jpdstudio@aol.com>
>Subject: 85-5ktq clutch slave cyl.
>
>My 85-5ktq needs a new clutch slave cylinder.  I seemed to be crunching gears
>the past few weeks, thought I was just getting old.  Then I drove it home
>without the clutch, welI should say the clutch was on the floor and not
>helping. I've replaced the master cylinder.  How much time should I set aside
>this weekend?   I have been told that the clutch needs to come out however,
>the Bentley book says is alot easier. 
>Thanks, Jeff
>

No, the clutch does not have to come out.

Jack up front of car, remove right front wheel, unsnap (careful) fabric
boot around tie rod end to get it out of your way. Open hood, remove snap
spring which fits into center of roll pin which retains slave cylinder.

Using a square shank (3/8") punch, stack ratchet extensions to about 30"
total length, and using this kludge, drive out roll pin. Clutch slave
withdraws toward rear.

The trick here is that you can hammer on the roll pin from outside the
engine compartment, via the tie rod access hole in fender inner skin. There
is NO room to do this from inside the engine compartment.

Loosen hose, plug line, fill new slave with brake fluid, reinstall line,
but don't fully tighten. Push cylinder into bell housing from rear, this is
tight, awkward, and don't lay on the radiator top hose while you work or it
will break off (BTDT). Cylinder will go most of the way in with imaginative
cussing. Start roll pin, drive home with punch plus multi extension.

Tighten hose, re-install spring clip, bleed slave cylinder. You're done.
Time to accomplish first time, 3 hours, subsequent times about 1 to 1.5 hours.

(Put the wheel back on! 80 ft lbs. torque for lug nuts.)

Don't try to rebuild the slave cylinder - this usually doesn't work,
although some listers have reported success.

Best Regards,

Mike Arman