RE: Horns and steering wheels-83GT

["Buchholz, Steven" <Steven.Buchholz@kla-tencor.com>]

> >I drove my friend's girlfriend's 83 GT yesterday and she pointed out what
> I
> >think is a strange phenomenon. The steering wheel has the normal pad in
> the
> >middle of the wheel to activate the horn but it may also be activated by
> >pushing the entire wheel into the steering column. Is this normal? She
> seems
> >to think her dad knows quite a bit about Audis and I would love to come
> up
> >with an answer he doesn't have. Thanks all.
> 
> No, this is not normal.  On the other hand, as long as the steering wheel
> moves only a little, it isn't dangerous.
> 
The half of the steering column that attaches to the steering wheel is
designed to press in fairly easily in the case of an accident.  What I
believe is happening is that when the steering wheel is pressed in the horn
contact ring on the steering wheel is coming in contact with a grounded
metal spring on the column switch assembly.  This is exactly the same
mechanism that I was posting about a couple weeks back with my 4kq and qtc
where a spare key would get in the same gap and cause the relay to be
energized.  

> At some point, someone must have taken the steering wheel off and messed
> with the linkage (e.g. to replace the ignition switch).  When they
> reinstalled the linkage, they either didn't remove all the slack from
> the upper portion, or they did not compress the spring (the one that
> holds the linkage together) completely.
> 
> It is pretty easy to fix.  Just remove the steering wheel and make sure
> the spring on the linkage is completely compressed.  You have to support
> the linkage underneath the dash to compress the spring, or else it will
> move slightly and cause the problem you currently see.
> 
It sounds to me that the linkage is adjusted a bit too close.  In any event,
I saw a post that stated that you have to drill out and replace the shear
bolt in order to do any adjustment.  I have seen both on a QTC (ur-q) and a
4kSQ that this isn't needed to work on the column switches.  There are two
other "socket cap" bolts (6mm hex key socket in head) in the steering
column.  One can be accessed through a hole in the bottom plastic cover over
the steering column.  Loosening this bolt will allow the column switches to
slide back and forth on the column ... thereby adjusting the gap between the
steering wheel and stationary contact on the column.  This thing can get
crimped down pretty tight so it may actually be necessary to take off the
lower cover and split the crimped pieces apart by wedging a screwdriver in
there.  It may take a time or two to get everything just right ... remember
also that you can pull the stationary contact spring out a bit to allow it
to make contact with the steering wheel a bit farther away.  

I have been able to remove the column switch assembly (including the
ignition lock) without ever having to drill out the shear bolt.  If you
remove the other socket cap bolt you can pry the column down enough to allow
the switches to be removed.  You'll need to remove that clip on the column
that holds against the spring that is pushing the column and wheel toward
the driver.  

Sorry about all of the verbiage ...

Steve Buchholz
San Jose, CA (USA)