Re: turbo lines, rack, and pump -- H-E-L-P

[Aleksander Mierzwa <alex@matrix.com.pl>]

At 09:08 25.06.98 -0400, Richard Haroutunian wrote:

>As you know, there are 4 lines for the turbo and oil cooler -- I've had one
>of the oil cooler lines replaced.  The leaking lines are the stainless
>braided 'go to' and 'return' liens going in and out of the turbo.  They're
>approx. $300 apiece at the dealer, and from what I've been told -- there
>ain't no other place to get 'em, at least not the braided ones.
>     --->>> Q>  Should I just let the dealer order them -- or do you think
>the lines or OK from BLAU or other places?         Please feel free to
>recommend a few places to try.

Guess it's already been answered... Find a good hose shop - I mean a shop
that carries an asortment of hydrulic hoses and clamps and has a hydraulic
press to crimp the new hose on the old fittings. Look under high-pressure
hydraulics or alike in the yellow pages. Tell them to use a hose capable of
flowing engine oil at temperatures up to 150C and pressures up to 5 bars.
It should cost you well below $50 (I had my turbo supply line repaired like
that for $15, but I live in East Europe, you know...) for a single hose and
the result will be probably better than buying a new one (OE lines are
_crap_) for a fraction of cost. 

>There's one more oil-cooler line that looks OK, but the ends where they're
>attached are rust and corroded.  The tech said I should think about
>replacing it -- but it's another $300 for the line plus labor.

Yep, your tech is right - replace.

>     ---->>>  Q. Can I wait -- or should I just do it all at once? He had
>the car on the lift, and there are a few corroded allen bolts that look
>like a major hassle -- and will probably break off.. I'd attempt it myself,
>but wouldn't know what to do if the bracket-thing attached tot he turbo is
>ruined because that means a new turbo.

Those Allen bolts AFAIK rarely get seized.

>Now for the rack stuff.  It needs the rack AND the pump, But the pump's not
>leaking as bad as the rack.

It will soon.

>I don't have the know-how or the patience to attempt this one on my own.

Pump is an easy job, rack is much more difficult indeed.

> tech says the rack is leaking pretty bad and
>suggests that I go for the 'full' rack at a dealer cost of $752.  His
>reasoning is that he's concerned that everything will be corroded and
>probably need replacing anyway and that while he's in there.... you know
>what I mean.
>Q.  BLAU offers a rack for around $420 with a $100 refund
>when the core's returned.  Not sure if they offer full racks or not.
>Should I go with the OEM parts -- rack and pump?  Any of you have these
>parts?  What do you guys think -- is there any advantage if I stick with
>the dealer's parts?  BLAU has a pump for around $180 -- what do you guys
>think?

Both rack and pump are rebuildable parts and it doesn't make sense to buy
brand new ones IMHO unless you like to waste money. I had both my pump and
rack rebuilt and they're working fine and don't leak after couple thousand
miles yet.

>Can I do the oil line stuff and wait a few weeks to get the rack/pump done?
>Can I do the rack first and the pump in a few weeks?  The pump doesn't leak
>as bad as the rack..

I'd have everything replaced at once. Every leak will get bigger over time,
and it's particularly true with Audi racks and pumps. Oil lines are a must
items, cause they can get you stranded on the road, not to mention the
possibility of damaging the engine should a line blow.

>Thanks guys -- I gotta order this stuff today, so if any of you guys have a
>few minutes to help me out it'd be mucho appreciat-o..  Thanks!

Just my $0.02...

Aleksander Mierzwa
Warsaw, Poland
mailto:alex@matrix.com.pl
87 Audi 5000CS turbo (mine)
88 Renault Medallion wagon (mom's)
91 mountain bike (just in case both cars broke at the same time :-)