Removing the Dash. 80-84 4ks, 4kq, Coupe GT & ur-q

[HAREST@allenbrook.iix.com]

Ah, no Bentley yet...  tsk  ;-)  Here's one for the archives...

Removing the Dash.  80-84 4ks, 4kq, Coupe GT & ur-q (similar for 85-87+
models, though center console & cluster removal differs)

  1) remove the driver kick panel/pedal cover.  1 screw up into fusebox
area, one screw to center console.
  2) remove driver side lower dash, 3 screw up into dash.  Lower outside
edge down and out first or you will break off two plastic dowel pins into
the center console.  Try not to rotate towards driver.
  3) remove passenger kick panel/evap cover.  1 screw into drip tray, 1
screw into center console.
  4) remove glovebox. 2 or three screws up into dash.  2 screws into center
console (forward edge in a recessed hole and down near the lower left corner
of the glovebox). 1 plastic screw/plug thingy in upper right corner. Rotate
plug so notch points to 3, 6, 9 or 12 o'clock (don't remember which one)
pull straight back and out.
  5) remove shift knob.
  6) remove shift boot. 1 screw dead center, rear.  1 screw on either side
of leading edge.
  7) remove heater control knob, levers and cover plate.
  8) unscrew heater controls from center console.  2 screws, lower front
edge.

If only removing the dash, skip 9-13.  If removing, center console from car
as well, include 9-13.
  9) remove ashtray.
10) remove ashtray cover.
11) unscrew diff panel.  2 screws, underneath, 1/3 width in from each side.
12) remove diff knob.  Pull as to lock diffs, grab the metal shaft, unscrew
knob.
13) remove diff panel.  Pull bottom out slightly, shift whole panel
downwards so not to break upper retaining tabs. Unplug lights. Remove clip
from diff switch, push switch backwards out through panel.

14) loosen/remove center console.  2 screws into dash above heater controls.
1 screw on each side up into heater box (should have been removed in 1 & 3).
Undo stray wiring for heater controls, radio, lighter etc as necessary.
15) remove center vent. 2 tabs on top edge, 2 tabs on lower edge. Can be
difficult.
16) remove horn pad and steering wheel. 24mm
17) remove cluster cover. 1 screw up into cluster from either side.
18) remove cluster. 1 Phillips on either side, accessible through middle
switch on either side. Unscrew speedo cable. Undo wiring connectors and the
light sockets.

19) remove dash... Dash is held in by 5 bolt/nut/screw combos.  About 12-18"
in from each end of the dash you will find a 10mm nuts in the plenum area
attached to two floating bolt contraptions that pass from the dash through
the firewall.  At each edge of the dash, underneath, you should see a 10mm
bolts securing the dash too the A-pillar base.  Look in the general area of
the speakers.  And finally if you push the center ductwork up or down, you
should reveal 1 other fastener, possibly a Phillips.
Undo any stray wiring for speakers, glove box, heater controls as necessary.

Finally, my favorite step...
20) Installation is reverse of (vaguely resembles) removal.



Replacing the Heater Core. 80-87+ 4ks, 4kq, Coupe GT & ur-q
READ COMPLETE PROCESS BEFORE STARTING...

  1) remove passenger kick panel/evap cover.  1 screw into drip tray, 1
screw into center console.
  2) remove glovebox. 2 or three screws up into dash.  2 screws into center
console (forward edge in a recessed hole and down near the lower left corner
of the glovebox). 1 plastic screw/plug thingy in upper right corner. Rotate
plug so notch points to 3, 6, 9 or 12 o'clock (don't remember which one)
pull straight back and out.

If car doesn't have AC, steps 3 - 5 may not apply.
  3) remove plenum/engine bay rubber seal and black plastic plenum cover.
  4) remove (white) airbox cover from plenum. 2 screws on each end.  Unplug
wiring and vacuum lines as necessary.
  5) (re)move AC evap for clearance as necessary. 2 screws up into
firewall/plenum from footwell. 2 screws down into evap from plenum area.

  6) drain coolant as desired. a) drain system, b) pinch lines between
motor/core and motor/heater valve. remove hose from heater valve to core,
drain core some(!) from this hose.

Note: recommend replacing heater valve, heater core hoses, and firewall hose
grommet while replacing heater core.

  7) remove heater core cover from passenger side of airbox, in passenger
footwell.
  8) find and loosen hose clamps to heater core.
  9) remove heater core hoses from core.  !! Have rags handy, this will
spill coolant !!  Plug core in/outlets??
10) push core hose into engine bay if replacing.
11) remove heater core.  Move AC evap as necessary.  This may require some
brute force or opening of the AC system by separating the two AC lines.  If
you're not comfortable with brute force and your AC is charged, consider
having AC evacuated before beginning this procedure/disabling your car.
Recharge after the job has been completed. Seal the AC lines if you do end
up separating them.
12) Installation vaguely resembles reverse of removal.



Hope these help someone without a Bentley.  Working off memory while writing
this up, but it should be correct.  Trust other will correct any major
flaws.

Standard disclaimers apply...  YMMV.
-Stott

> -----Original Message-----
> From:	David Ritter [SMTP:dritter@mich.com]
> Sent:	Tuesday, July 07, 1998 12:19 PM
> To:	HAREST@Allenbrook.iix.com
> Subject:	RE: Pulling Dash on Ur-q, Recommendations, Advise ??
> 
> HAREST@Allenbrook.iix.com writes:
>  > You're in for some fun...
>  > 
> Yep, that's what I thought.
> 
>  > I've got the ABT pod in my 4ktq, as well as another 3 gauge panel where
> the
>  > diff panel used to be.  Removing the dash is not big deal.  Just make
> sure
>  > you get that screw hidden inside the center vent.
>  > 
> Thanks for the tip on that one.
> 
>  > The heater core is where it gets tricky.  With the dash out, you may
> get
>  > lucky, but typically the AC evap must be moved before you can swap the
>  > heater core.  That involves removing the airbox cover in the plenum,
> and
>  > sometimes separating the AC lines.  Is your AC charged?
>  > 
> Lucky me...
> No, the A/C is not charged, in fact the compressor and condensor are
> not even installed at this time. I think that might help simplify
> things a little. I guess I'll just have to see when I get in there.
> 
>  > If you need any specifics, ask.  BTDT.
>  > 
>  > -Stott
> 
> Thanks for the offer, if my Manual doesn't show up by the time I get
> it torn down, I might need a bit more advise.
> 
> David