RE: Melting headlight switches (RE: Melting headlights?)

[glen <gpowell@acacianet.com>]

The 85 ur-q has an incandescent light bulb inside the light switch for illumination of the switch - this bulb can make the switch very hot to the touch; but it's not in this case due to overloading the switch's power rating - it's the switch's illumination bulb generating most/all of the heat. 85 and on 4KQs are similar. I did burn out a switch by using higher wattage tail light bulbs. Switched back to the stock wattage tail light bulbs and no more switch prollums. This was like ~8 years ago.

-glen


Eeek, danger Will Robinson!  I've been running 80/100s and 100s for a 
week now on stock wiring (4 seperate individually fuse power feeds).  My 
headlight switch gets too hot to touch on long drives with the 
high-beams, and remains warm on low-beams.  It's an expensive part, 
relays are cheap.  I'm working on relays, and avoiding using high-beams 
for now.

Scott Miller
Holland/Selfridge ANGB, Michigan
'90 200tqw


>Depends on the car. The 85 ur-q has 4x individually-fused and relayed =
>power feeds to the headlights from the factory as a good example of how 
=
>it should be done. I have observed no problems with 80/100 H4s and 100 
=
>H1s over the past 10+ years.
>
>-glen
>
>
>		With all the talk about headlights recently, I thought I'd
>try some different ones out, just to see if there is really a =
>difference.  I
>ordered the following:
>		55/100 Blue Dot 9004's
>		Britelight Xenon 9004's
>
>		I have not received them yet, but here's my question:  Am I
>going to melt my headlamps/wires by running the 100w lamps?
>
>
>
>
>


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