WGFV, LED Tester and WOT Switch

[quk@isham-research.demon.co.uk (Phil Payne)]

In message <E0ywPKT-0005h9-00@iglou.com> "Douglas Hurst Quebbeman" writes:

> > Thanks Phil. That is how i rigged it. Waiting for the commute to work
> > so that I can open her up. So this will let me know that the ECU is
> > trying to correctly do what needs to be done but the WGFV may still be
> > bad? So how do I test the WGFV itself?

> Just run the standard ECU output tests. When the test comes to the WGFV's
> turn, you'll hear the valve click on and off if it's working.

No, you'll feel it clicking on and off if it's clicking on and off.
Tells you nothing about whether it's working.  I find the only way to
_really_ be sure is to connect a vacuum gauge between the valve and
the wastegate.  Make it a rugged one, though - it really gets hammered.

> You could also remove it from the car, and hook a small tube up to it. Apply
> voltage using a battery or a cigarette lighter accessory thingie. I can't
> remember if it's open (passing flow) when energized, or when not energized,
> but one way, you'll be able to blow air through the valve, the other way,
> air will not pass.

DO NOT HOOK UP THE WGFV TO 12V.

If you want to know why, ask Charles Adair.  I think new ones cost
GBP100 or so.

I've seen this problem on the VDO idle stabiliser valve and on the
WGFV.  Just because it's on a car doesn't mean every voltage it sees
is battery voltage.  The ECU drives some things with 6v and some with
current rather than voltage - the ISV being a case in point.

--
 Phil Payne
 Phone: 0385 302803   Fax: 01536 723021
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