timing belt--a better crankbolt locker

[quk@isham-research.demon.co.uk (Phil Payne)]

In message <40889b94.35cf0416@aol.com> LOACESQ@aol.com writes:

> Same problem with the cam gear bolt.  The suggested method of using a beefy
> flat bladed screwdriver resting against the t-belt cover stud to hold the cam
> gear locked only succeeded in bending the stud.

Yup.  Every time.  I now loosen the belt and tie-wrap it so it goes
around more of the cam gear's circumference, and them use the 'large
vise grips' trick.

> Do I have this right??  The idler pulley/tensioner isn't adjustable--tension
> is adjusted with the waterpump, a device that is flat-mated to the engine
> block with an o-ring seal.  I'm supposed to slide this device around to
> tension the t-belt.  Meanwhile, the o-ring on its backside is being rubbed,
> twisted and abraded, and afterwards, will be expected to hold coolant under
> pressure??

Didn't see this first time.  You're supposed to get a _new_ waterpump
and seal, and gasket-scrape the block face.

> Does anyone know if Audi sells a mixed hardware replacement set for all those
> rusted out nuts & bolts you discover in doing the t-belt job?  It would be
> good to have new hardware ready for the reinstall.  Also, my addtiional advice
> for anyone doing the t-belt job is to change all the v-belts with it.  The
> standard advice only seems to include the idler pulley and the water pump.
> Both my a/c compressor and my hydr pump were at their closest positions, and I
> still couldn't remove the belts (or put on new ones) without taking the
> harmonic balancer off.

You can usually manage by disconnecting the hydraulic pump tensioner
from the pump.  This allows a little extra movement - enough to lift
the belt off at the top.  None of the belts can be removed at the
damper end - they must always be removed from the 'accessory' first.

--
 Phil Payne
 Phone: 0385 302803   Fax: 01536 723021
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