Re: Idle Stabilization Valve correct operation

[Richard Beels <beels@technologist.com>]

While waiting for the oil to drain, I decided to pull my ISv and take a
gander.  It too, is opened just a crack; maybe a dime's width (not a
nickel) - can't really get the calipers in there<g> but it is opened.
De-fibbing with a 9V pops it open smoothly to almost completely open (just
that dime's worth closed).  Removing power snaps it shut again.  So, it
seems to be opening/closing the "full amount" with the initial and ending
positions being "off".  BUT, doesn't there need to be some air going
through?  I couldn't find any other bypass so I'm confused now.

Also, I scraped the gunk off the mysterious brass insert (set screw?) but
was unable to turn it also.  Didn't really hork on it though.

What's going on here?

At 10:35 PM 8/13/1998 , Steve Manning wrote:
>  At 08:59 PM 8/13/98 -0400, you wrote:
>  >Pulled my ISV, cleaned it w/carb cleaner, lubed w/Liquid Wrench,
>  >reinstalled; no change in idle; still bounces, and no higher-RPM for A/C
>  >operation.
>  >
>  >The question is, should the valve, when one peeps at it, be open just ever
>  >so slightly?  Mine sure is, and it still is.  I'd guess it's open about
the
>  >thickness of a nickel.
>  
>  Should be closed (should not be able to blow air through it).
>  
>  >The second question is, should I do a de-fibrilation on it? :)
>  >Hey, it says 12v on the side :)
>  
>  Actually, yes.  It's a good way to clean it.  But DON'T use 12v from your
>  car battery, use a 9v battery (like used in a radio).
>  1.  Spray in carb cleaner
>  2.  Hook up battery to contacts and click it open and closed.
>  3.  Repeat until clean.
>  
>  Don't forget to check the hoses leading to it for a vacuum
>  leak...........SLM



Cheers,
	Richard
	88 90Q - <insert pithy witticism here>
	88 Golf GTi - PRO Rally